O2 sensor connection '98 V70 T5

[jreed]

Agreed with the above advice. I used PBlaster and a 22mm O2 socket from Tekton that worked well.

[5rivers]

I'm in the great north!!

[5rivers]

More questions!
I managed to release the O2 sensor plug from its connection point, but now the issue is getting the sensor off!
None of my 22mm sockets are deep enough to reach the end of the sensor where one would put a 22mm wrench.
I even cut off the wires thinking that would create a little bit more room for the socket, but that did not work either.
I did pick up the O2 sensor removal tool kit from Advance Auto and have heated the exhaust pipe and bung with a newly acquired MAPP torch. I heated up the pipe and bung a few times and applied PB Blaster in between the heat sessions. So far the sensor is not budging!
Any thought on what I might do next? Continue the heat and blaster for another day, maybe?
While I was under the car, I did notice there are two sensors placed on and at the front of the cat; one is on the passenger side half way up the thickness of the cat, the other is on the driver's side but closer to the floor (this sensor is the one I disconnected from the plug-in connection point under the turbo hose). Not sure if I should be removing/replacing the other front of cat sensor (passenger side) as well. Then there is a long wire that travels along the exhaust to about the middle of the car (one would need to remove a rectangular plate that has four bolts holding it up), that I believe is the rear O2 sensor.
My question now, what's the other sensor for that is located in/on the front of the cat (on the passenger side)? I have a '98 V70 5T 2.3L, and pictures I have seen on this site do not reflect the location of these two sensors (on/in the front of the cat) that my car has.
Appreciate your thoughts.

[jreed]

I also use P'Blaster and it has worked well for me -- sometimes I also use a torch like what you're describing above. I have heard that a mixture of acetone and ATF is also an effective penetrating fluid -- don't know if it would be more effective than what you've already tried.

[5rivers]

I have not tried the acetone/ATF mixture but it's worth a shot! Thanks for the suggestion!
The overspray from the PB Blaster can seems to have covered a good portion of the top of the cat. Is that going to pose any potential fire threats if I use the MAPP torch on the exhaust pipe at the O2 sensor?
Short of continually trying the heat and penetrating oil process, if I put all the turbo/air hoses and wires back together, what would be damaged if I drive the car about 10 miles to a repair shop?
Given that the wires to the O2 sensor have been cut, codes for that will reappear on my code reader, but what might be the consequences of driving it a short distance?
Appreciate your replies/insights!

[454cid]

You're not going to do much with penetrant. Remember that seal is designed to hold hot exhaust gas.

Get a long wrench, so you can put more torque on it. Also be prepared to retap the threads.

[abscate]

The precat sensor is in the down pipe

The post cat sensor is the one mid-cat

You can drive the car 100s miles without working OXS , they fine tune the mixture for emissions and mileage.

Try the MAPP heating amd cooling cycle several more times, 30 minutes to cool

[5rivers]

I did the heat and pb blaster routine again, without success. Although, it did feel like the sensor was beginning to move, but on closer inspection, the points on the hex nut on the sensor were beginning to round off!
Not sure if you can see in the picture, the sensor near the top has some shiny spots on it close to the exhaust, those shiny spots are the corners rounded off. The sensor with the wires attached I am guessing is the downstream sensor.
I'm not sure how to make this picture smaller and less fuzzy, sorry.

[matthew1]

Are you using one of these? https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tool- ... or-socket/

[5rivers]

YES, I have been using the shorter one with a clamp around it so the opening would not drift.