Ok Guys to change or not to change...This past weekend I replaced my Radiator and Heater Core. When I did, I obviously lost some transmission fluid when i pulled the 2 lines. After seeing I began to ponder - should I or shouldn't I change it.
My 1999 S70 is currently at 192K miles and some change, i bought it at 150K. I have zero past maintenance information other than mine. It has never had a hint of shifting or transmission issues. I have rebuilt transmissions on other vehicles, so I am pretty up to speed on them.
I have always gone under the rule of after a certain number of miles/length of time, you don't change fluid unless you are experiencing issues or the fluid of burnt.
this does not smell burnt. here are a couple pictures of the fluid. I have no idea what kind/brand of fluid that is had in it. Based on what I have seen in changing the various components, its probably not OEM level fluid but who knows..
It shifts smoothly and i have no issues right now.
Thoughts?
1999 S70 GLT - Transmission Fluid Change ?
- Grantkat
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1999 S70 GLT - Transmission Fluid Change ?
1999 S70 GLT ~193k
2014D VIDA/DICE
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited ~ 315K
2008 Lincoln MKX ~130k
2008 Toyota Sequoia ~ 252k
Powered by coffee, stripped bolts, and questionable decisions.
2014D VIDA/DICE
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited ~ 315K
2008 Lincoln MKX ~130k
2008 Toyota Sequoia ~ 252k
Powered by coffee, stripped bolts, and questionable decisions.
- volvolugnut
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That ATF looks too dark to me. With no records of when it was changed or what the fluid specs are, I would do a series of drain and refills.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- erikv11
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My routine on new-to-me, 200k P80 Volvos with auto trans is
1 - completely change the fluid when I get the car. Light brown, dark brown, pinkish, no matter. I have always done all 13 quarts at once by pulling the ATF line from the cooler but of course a series of drain and fills in succession is fine too. One reason to change it all at once is to know you're not mixing fluids but it is a minor concern.
2 - thereafter drain and fill (3.5 quarts) every 30k or so
3 - use cheap, generic Dex III-compatible ATF. It works great and, well, it's cheap. My favorite is Supertech ATF at Walmart.
These transmissions are super hardy.
1 - completely change the fluid when I get the car. Light brown, dark brown, pinkish, no matter. I have always done all 13 quarts at once by pulling the ATF line from the cooler but of course a series of drain and fills in succession is fine too. One reason to change it all at once is to know you're not mixing fluids but it is a minor concern.
2 - thereafter drain and fill (3.5 quarts) every 30k or so
3 - use cheap, generic Dex III-compatible ATF. It works great and, well, it's cheap. My favorite is Supertech ATF at Walmart.
These transmissions are super hardy.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
- jreed
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I agree with the above advice to change the fluid.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- Grantkat
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ok next question.
according to my VIN I have a AW42AWD gearbox (#8 in the VIN position)
I am thinking drain refill cycles, as opposed to pulling a line. Since i just installed the lines with new clips etc, im inclined to leave them alone. I am also superstious in that introducing new fluid in batches as opposed to a complete refill seems like a more consrvative approach (I am sure this has no reasonability to it). any thoughts as welcome.
1) for drain and refill, how many cycles is considered appropriate?
2) how long between drain refill cycles?
according to my VIN I have a AW42AWD gearbox (#8 in the VIN position)
I am thinking drain refill cycles, as opposed to pulling a line. Since i just installed the lines with new clips etc, im inclined to leave them alone. I am also superstious in that introducing new fluid in batches as opposed to a complete refill seems like a more consrvative approach (I am sure this has no reasonability to it). any thoughts as welcome.
1) for drain and refill, how many cycles is considered appropriate?
2) how long between drain refill cycles?
1999 S70 GLT ~193k
2014D VIDA/DICE
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited ~ 315K
2008 Lincoln MKX ~130k
2008 Toyota Sequoia ~ 252k
Powered by coffee, stripped bolts, and questionable decisions.
2014D VIDA/DICE
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited ~ 315K
2008 Lincoln MKX ~130k
2008 Toyota Sequoia ~ 252k
Powered by coffee, stripped bolts, and questionable decisions.
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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I do the Gibbons method on all my AT cars. Pull the top line and pump out 3 liters. Put three liters fresh back in.
If you put new orings on the lines they won’t mind being moved.
Drive 50-100 miles between cycles and then check fluid at end using factory approved method
The lore about not changing ATF comes ftom those who brought. Thrashed out trans to a shop , which the new fluid flushed out the crap and ended up non-running
If you put new orings on the lines they won’t mind being moved.
Drive 50-100 miles between cycles and then check fluid at end using factory approved method
The lore about not changing ATF comes ftom those who brought. Thrashed out trans to a shop , which the new fluid flushed out the crap and ended up non-running
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- erikv11
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A conservative drain-refill approach is reasonable, even though it's not what I typically do. It's definitely safe! It's also easy to do.Grantkat wrote: ↑04 Nov 2025, 07:30 ok next question.
according to my VIN I have a AW42AWD gearbox (#8 in the VIN position)
I am thinking drain refill cycles, as opposed to pulling a line. Since i just installed the lines with new clips etc, im inclined to leave them alone. I am also superstious in that introducing new fluid in batches as opposed to a complete refill seems like a more consrvative approach (I am sure this has no reasonability to it). any thoughts as welcome.
1) for drain and refill, how many cycles is considered appropriate?
2) how long between drain refill cycles?
1) If you drain the pan it should be 3.5 quarts. Published capacity of the AW42 system is 8.1 quarts. So after one drain and fill you are at 43% new fluid. Next change gets you to 68% etc. :
1 0.43
2 0.68
3 0.82
4 0.90
5 0.94
6 0.97
7 0.98
Many people choose 4 changes but pick your spot.
2) Up to you! I would guess the new fluid composition gets completely mixed within a few miles and then waiting has little additional effect, though there may be some slow dislodging of crud going on. At a minimum I'd try to use every gear including reverse. So, drive a couple miles or hours, a couple hundred miles, change it every Saturday for a month - I'd expect any of those to give equal outcomes.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
- Grantkat
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thanks to everyone for contributing!!!
1999 S70 GLT ~193k
2014D VIDA/DICE
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited ~ 315K
2008 Lincoln MKX ~130k
2008 Toyota Sequoia ~ 252k
Powered by coffee, stripped bolts, and questionable decisions.
2014D VIDA/DICE
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited ~ 315K
2008 Lincoln MKX ~130k
2008 Toyota Sequoia ~ 252k
Powered by coffee, stripped bolts, and questionable decisions.
- Sveedy
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I seem to remember that one of the reasons (maybe the main reason) for the drain and refill approach, as opposed to the all at once option, was to avoid shocking the transmission by going from old to new fluid pretty much instantly. So with that in mind, I run about 100-200 miles between each change. I do 3 changes.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
- volvolugnut
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I think there is another advantage of driving 100 miles or more. The fresh fluid will have more effective detergents and will do some internal cleaning between the drain cycles. The next drain will get the crud back out of the transmission.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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