P80 Exhaust Valve 9454610 9471466

[abscate]

Quick note on the engine number break and valves for P80s

Up to engine number - 1817724 (NA ) and -1817652 (Turbo) and R engines use the 7mm valves

9471466

The later RN engines use the 6mm valves 945610

Interleaves or AE aftermarket brand are about $15-20 each

Volvo OEM are $50-60 each

I have good used ones in stock, too.

[erikv11]

Why didn't you just JB Weld that?

[abscate]

Why didn't you just JB Weld that?

I cant find the right colour matched JB Weld.......

[kallekula]

Wow, yeah that one is no good anymore. Yikes

[850 LPT]

That's a frightful sight indeed. Got me started thinking about prevention again. In doing so I cam across this very informative thread:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20126

I switched all our Volvos over to higher grade fuel already years ago. Just have to remember to "blow out the carbon" every once in a while

[abscate]

The 9471466 valves with 7mm stem are no longer available Volvo Oem, just in AE or TRW brand

These are used in engine number -1818168 1999 models

Great Sunday morning read on why valves “burn” - the expression used for losing a big piece of valve

viewtopic.php?t=20126

Clip from that thread from guru jimmy57..in short, we need to run these engines up to 4000 rpm once in a while.

The valves on these engines do not rotate unless the engine speed is above 3500 RPM and even better above 4000.
The deposits on seat allow a leakage and the leakage is HOT and burns the valve like a torch. Some will look like a cutting torch was taken to the valve. If the valves are moving on seat a little it scrubs the deposits away.
My mother's 95 960 was always idling a little coarse and when I'd visit I'd go do the "Italian tune-up" by driving it at 4500-5000 rpm in a lower gear for 7-8 miles.
When I'd stop at the stop sign after this it would be very smooth. Volvo has a 16 year old service bulletin for start-stall-no compression/no start that has the tech drive the car like that after getting it running and installing new multi electrode or platinum faced electrode plugs.
The valve stem leakage is a contributor to the deposits.
Another thing that causes them to burn on hydraulic tappet turbo engines (through 1999 model year, 2000-> has solid tappets) is the exhaust valve stem getting hot if high throttle/load is placed on engine really soon after start. The stem gets hot and lengthens faster than the thick cold oil will let tappet contract to compensate for. Not widespread but someone who parks on the street and pulls a hill to leave their neighborhood 200 yards from their parking place could see this.
Octane isn't a contributor to carbon buildup but excessive dosing with fuel additives and oil consumption do contribute. Easy driving is a BIG contributor. There really is something to "blowing the carbon out of her".

You can literally see how hot combustion gases scoured a gouge in my exhaust valve , probably from carbon on the seat stopping it from sealing properly

[lebattam]

@abscate - You say you have a few exhaust valves that aren't bent up? I cannot find any OEM versions anywhere. I just joined MVS. But I contribute over at swedespeed.

[abscate]

I went back and forth with Sveedy with valves and two others so Im not sure what I have. They are orderable from Skandix though as well as FCP.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 40-9471466

Remember to get the right ones, 7mm or 6mm depending on your engine number (mid 1999 engine break)

[Sveedy]

Yep. Round and round we went on that journey.
Final results - The original sodium filled exhaust valves (turbo) are only available in the junkyards, but those are the ones you want.
The TRW ones are good, but not sodium filled. They were back ordered last time I checked.
The machining on some of the others seemed to have issues, inho.
Robert is where I ended up getting my stock ones from, so if you only need one or two, I'd try him. (RobertDIY.com)