What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[manovlov]

I had a similar issue few years ago. It was the camshaft pulse sensor. It solved the problem. By the way, these are the parts I've also changed (i was on my "stage 0" reconditioning my car just after bought it - belts, filters, all fluids...).

camshaft pulse sensor.png (22.54 KiB) Viewed 224 times

• Fuel pressure regulator

Fuel pressure regulator.png (20.96 KiB) Viewed 224 times

• Air mass sensor (thanks Abscate)

Air mass sensor.png (25.04 KiB) Viewed 224 times

[listThrottle position sensor[/list]

Throttle position sensor.png (24.33 KiB) Viewed 224 times

You may also check the temperature sensor. I had a bad wiring once, the idle was like in a russian mountain. I've replaced this sensor also.

[Chieber]

5k km later the pcv looks like this. Seems like I need to drive longer distances

The white around the edge is sealant.

[Chieber]

Bulbs time! Replaced all bulbs on the rear.

The og was osram. I replaced it with what was in store, which is Philips.
The difference in build was immediately seen when bulbs are placed next to each other.


Edit: just noticed that the new delta link is already rusting. Brand of the link was fag schaeffler

[ZionXIX]

I had a similar issue few years ago. It was the camshaft pulse sensor. It solved the problem. By the way, these are the parts I've also changed (i was on my "stage 0" reconditioning my car just after bought it - belts, filters, all fluids...).
camshaft pulse sensor.png

• Fuel pressure regulator

Fuel pressure regulator.png

• Air mass sensor (thanks Abscate)

Air mass sensor.png
[listThrottle position sensor[/list]Throttle position sensor.png

You may also check the temperature sensor. I had a bad wiring once, the idle was like in a russian mountain. I've replaced this sensor also.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I replaced the ECT sensor in 2019 with genuine volvo when I replaced the timing belt, thermostat etc. I'll test the resistance but im getting expected temperature readings through the scanner.

I pulled the camshaft position sensor last night to inspect it. I found the tiniest bit of dry oil residue at the bottom of the housing, otherwise very clean inside. The plug was already disconnected from its mount and is basically free-floating. Im not sure how to tell if this sensor is bad. Ive watched several videos on back probing the sensor but none of them say what bad results should look like.

The MAF sensor is working at least when I un plug it, The engine bogs down and stalls. The idle air readings where around 5.4g/s which seems high at idle if the rule of thumb is "grams equal to the displacement of the engine" but maybe turbos are the exception? Anyway I can clean it and test easy enough.

My fuel pressure regulator I think is working. When I disconnect the vacuum line, fuel pressure rises to 50-55psi and no fuel leaks out of the regulator so the diaphragm is intact.

How does one check the throttle position sensor?

On a whim I cleaned the ignition module leads. No changes but I had high hopes.

[manovlov]

I pulled the camshaft position sensor last night to inspect it. I found the tiniest bit of dry oil residue at the bottom of the housing, otherwise very clean inside. The plug was already disconnected from its mount and is basically free-floating. Im not sure how to tell if this sensor is bad. Ive watched several videos on back probing the sensor but none of them say what bad results should look like.

I don't know how it can be tested, i just know it seems to be a commune issue on ours 850. Friends here recommend to use Bosch OEM part.

[abscate]

5.4 g/ sec at idle is way too high ..

[ZionXIX]

5.4 g/ sec at idle is way too high ..

Yea, the more I read about normal values, the more I suspect a problem. I gave the MAF sensor a thorough cleaning but no changes on readings. I suppose if the ECU thinks the engine is getting double the amount of air, then it will reduce fuel usage to compensate this might explain the -5% long term fuel trim. Looks like I'll be digging into the parts car to see if the MAF is compatible.

[abscate]

5.4 g/ sec at idle is way too high ..

Yea, the more I read about normal values, the more I suspect a problem. I gave the MAF sensor a thorough cleaning but no changes on readings. I suppose if the ECU thinks the engine is getting double the amount of air, then it will reduce fuel usage to compensate this might explain the -5% long term fuel trim. Looks like I'll be digging into the parts car to see if the MAF is compatible.

A -5% LT trim isn’t crazy for a used engine. Well within trim bounds of +-20%

[ZionXIX]

I need someone make it make sense.

I dug through the bowels of my laptop and found some pdf repair manuals. I followed the instructions to test a few components.

The MAF tested good based on the instructions. It asked to backprobe and check voltage across wires 2 and 4. The specified voltage of 0.1 to 0.2v was spot on @0.16 volts.

The idle air controller is suppose to have a resistance measurement of 9-13 ohms across pins 1+2 and then again at 2+3. My controller measures 17 ohms. The manual states to replace. I find that hard to believe since the flap inside moves freely when voltage is applied to either side. I pulled the controller from my parts car and it measures 11 ohms but is seized with gunk and no amount of brake clean seems to free it up.

Moving on

Next I tested the ECT. I replaced this part 6 years ago with volvo blue box when I did the timing belt, water pump etc. Now when I measure the resistance it read infinite resistance. I'm getting normal readings on the dash and from the ecu when scanning. How can the sensor be broken and give normal readings? It should be 300 ohms at boiling point of water and 7300 ohms at the freezing point.

And of course the price of the ect has risen from $55 to $126.


*** EDIT *** I must amend this post. Evidently i cant use an ohm meter. Now I'm getting expected results from the ECT and the Idle air controller. So I may focus my efforts elsewhere. I have not investigated the throttle position sensor or the oxygen sensors. Im considering pulling the oxygen sensors and cleaning them super well to see if anything changes.

[scot850]

Got a text from one of my buddies who bought my 2000 V70 base. It had a picture attached of a rear axle support bush where the rubber had separated from below the car where it bolts to the floor. He was looking for advice on what part to buy as all we get north of the border seems to be a Delphi or a Suspensia? branded part. No idea if either are any good. Same parts supplied by Rock Auto but cheaper.

OE part is $300 CDN!!

He also asked if the job was difficult............errr, yes!

I then said, I have a spare bush made by Febi (same as IPD/FCP sell) for about $80 US. It was for another friend's car that never got fitted as the car had one done and it was a pig, and then it was written off before the 2nd one was done. My friend then donated the part and the Volvo tool to the PIF fund. Naturally my buddy just laughed and said he'd be over in 15 minutes.

Neil.