Sticking Brake Caliper - 2000 V70

[scot850]

Yes, you go through that stage. In my case it has been 13 years with the R, and still haven't got to the other side!!

Hopefully your car is resolved much quicker! Great progress.

Neil.

[abscate]

Shrimp New tie rod ends

Shrimp New strut bolts nuts

Shrimp Nuts facing forward, right way

Shrimp Volvo…

I think that’s it.

[rolsen11]

I should post a list of all the stuff I've replaced since I bought the car in 2022, it's a lot...

I finally got around to checking the date code on the timing belt and found that it's from 2009... and it developed a crack in it.

So now I'm making yet ANOTHER iPD order

[rolsen11]

It's been a while since I did this job and it seems this specific corner is still burning more brake pad than it should. The caliper no longer feels like it's sticking and it doesn't seem to be burning up at the same rate as it did before, but alas it still is. I'm not sure what's causing it, since the caliper, brake hose and brake fluid are new. Maybe this corner has a poor quality pair of pads compared to the other corners? I haven't replaced brake pads on this car yet so I'm not sure what the previous owner used.

[scot850]

I would suggest fitting a known good brand of pads at the front and see if the issue continues.

Neil.

[abscate]

Wait, the sticker calipers changed a Columba wheel into an Antlia?

[rolsen11]

I would suggest fitting a known good brand of pads at the front and see if the issue continues.

Neil.

Agreed. Something to think about doing when the weather gets warmer. I need to do the rear pads anyways, they're getting thin.

Wait, the sticker calipers changed a Columba wheel into an Antlia?

Incredible, isn't it? That must be from all the NAPA know-how I hear so much about

[V50M66]

Looks like you only replaced the caliper itself, not the bracket. Did you also replace the pins? Did you also replace the line? Would suggest both if not.

Would also do the pads up front. Genuine Volvo or Textar only if you want the car to actually stop - no ceramic crap.

[rolsen11]

I was initially going to replace the bracket but it was well and truly seized to the knuckle. I decided to clean the old one and leave it since I didn't need to take the rotor off. Not looking forward to dealing with that when the time comes. I decided to keep the old pins since I read that aftermarket ones use lower quality metal. Upon visual inspection the original pins were completely fine, just needed a light clean and a little lubrication. I replaced the rubber hose, didn't touch the hard line.

Thanks for the tip on pads, those will likely be the first thing I do. If this brake continues to be dusty after that + more cleaning and pin lubrication I'll probably leave it be, just annoying to clean.

[MoVolvos]

I was initially going to replace the bracket but it was well and truly seized to the knuckle. I decided to clean the old one and leave it since I didn't need to take the rotor off. Not looking forward to dealing with that when the time comes. I decided to keep the old pins since I read that aftermarket ones use lower quality metal. Upon visual inspection the original pins were completely fine, just needed a light clean and a little lubrication. I replaced the rubber hose, didn't touch the hard line.

Thanks for the tip on pads, those will likely be the first thing I do. If this brake continues to be dusty after that + more cleaning and pin lubrication I'll probably leave it be, just annoying to clean.

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Be careful to just put a film of proper lubricant on those pins. I read somewhere recently of not putting any lube on the pins as it traps air and won't move freely. I don't think I would go without but will definitely use much much less.
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