Oil and Weird powder on Valve Cover

Post by **Glencoeteen** » 26 Apr 2011, 18:58

I am thinking vacuum leak, inter-cooler hose popped off, ( I just had a ECU Flash on my 98 T5 and i blew an inter-cooler hose of, did the same thing stalled out and would not run. or the cam sensor is crapping out.

VolvoTurbo850 · Post by **VolvoTurbo850** » 26 Apr 2011, 19:00

Any of your turbo hoses loose?

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 26 Apr 2011, 19:15

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Unfortunately my car is outside and it's dark so I'll have to check all the hoses tomorrow.

The previous owner put on the reverse intercooler kit. I took off the top pipe to do all the work then put it back on. As far as I can tell It's not lose. I'll reseat it anyway.

I'll also check the pipe going from the bottom of the intercooler to the throttle body. I'll post up tomorrow after the check.

How do you check the cam sensor?

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 27 Apr 2011, 16:44

Alright so here's the latest update on the issue. The stalling was due to the MAF being disconnected. I think I disconnected it and forgot to connect it back up (really stupid I know).

The car is still having issues though. The stalling stopped after I hooked up the MAF but now the car has a really rough idle. Rough enough that you can actually see the engine shake (Not violently, but enough). I noticed that the coil was making a clicking sound almost in rhythm with the engine shaking. It's like electrical contact noise when u touch two wires together.

I thought it could be the wire going from the coil to the dist. cap so I put my old wire back on. I still have the same problem. The car is showing a check engine light but I don't have a code reader and am kind of afraid to drive it to autozone. Are these the usual symptoms of a coil going out?

All the new tune up parts I installed were OEM. Thanks again for all the help.

Post by **precopster** » 27 Apr 2011, 17:13

Start the car and pull each lead then replace it until one of the leads makes no difference to the engine speed or sound. The cylinder that makes no difference to engine speed is where the problem lies. Do this with engine running so you can hear the difference.

Next up you need to let each lead short to ground to see if there is spark at the leads. You should see a spark jump from the boot to the engine.

If this fails to give a result (all leads produce good spark) sounds like you may have to look into compression and do a wet/dry test.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 27 Apr 2011, 20:07

Thanks a lot for the instructions. I'll try it tomorrow and post back up with the results.

sjbock1 · Post by **sjbock1** » 28 Apr 2011, 16:06

About your check engine light - It may just be because you tried to start your engine with the MAF sensor disconnected. A similar situation happened to me last week. I have a 1994 850 (orginal owner, 130,000 miles). The check engine light has never come on before. Last week I disconnected the MAF sensor while removing the air filter to get to the air flow box to remove the malfunctioning thermostat that controls the hot and cold air flow. Like you, I forgot to reconnect the MAF sensor and I tried to start the engine. It started and immediately died 3 times before I remembered the MAF sensor. After I reconnected it, the car started up and ran fine but my check engine light stayed on. The nearest Volvo dealer is 100 miles away and I haven't taken it to Auto Zone to find out what the code is because they say their code reader doesn't work on a Volvo older than 1995.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 29 Apr 2011, 15:20

I tried the spark test. All wires sparked.

I hooked everything up and tried starting the car. It was still doing the same rough idle but it seemed like the arcing noise got worse. I had a friend with me and we both listened and determined it was for sure from the coil.

Got it tested at Autozone. The primary resistance reading was at 0.8 when it should have been between 0.5 and 0.6 according to the reference sheet they had. Can anyone confirm these numbers?

I also scanned my cel and found out it was a PO102 code, which was the MAF code as sjbock1 predicted. I guess I'll try resetting the car after fixing everything.

Thank you everybody for the help.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 29 Apr 2011, 15:25

sjbock1 wrote: The nearest Volvo dealer is 100 miles away and I haven't taken it to Auto Zone to find out what the code is because they say their code reader doesn't work on a Volvo older than 1995.

You have a diagnostic system in the engine bay. When you open the hood it will be towards the front of the car on the passenger side.

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... es_a2.html

There are instructions on how to reset the code. I used to have a 95 850 GLT and that's what I used to do.

Srini850 · Post by **Srini850** » 03 May 2011, 23:29

The MSD coil I ordered just came in today. I have a temporary attachment to the original bracket now. Only problem was I was missing the wire that goes from the MSD to the Dist. cap. I ordered the wire but shipping with IPD messed up so I have to wait until Friday. I wanted to try the coil to see if the car would run since I have to go home friday (didn't want it to break on the 5 hour drive).

So here's how I tested the coil:

: photo(2).JPG (93.48 KiB) Viewed 1321 times

Yes, those are my old spark plug wires

I took the others one off after the picture.

So far the car idled a lot better. It wasn't making that arching noise or sputtering. I haven't taken it on a test drive yet as I had to tighten a few more things and the bracket wasn't really done, so I didn't want the coil falling out in the drive. Hopefully it runs like it's supposed to do when I finish the bracket and actually drive it.