Login Register

94 850 turbo MAF code 121, anyone had one fail?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
nightshift
Posts: 15
Joined: 8 December 2003
Year and Model:
Location:

94 850 turbo MAF code 121, anyone had one fail?

Post by nightshift »

On my 94 850 turbo, I have a code 121 for the MAF. The car won't idle well now, and when put in gear, will sputter and stall if I don't feather the throttle a bit. It smells a bit rich in fuel as well, cleaned the IAC as well.
Has anyone had the MAF fail, and what symptoms did you have? I had disconnected the connector at the MAF and there was no change between being connected or not, is this the only way to test the MAF, or is there any ohm/ ammeter test etc to try?

Geevs
Posts: 140
Joined: 9 November 2003
Year and Model:
Location:
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by Geevs »

I read in another auto forum that spraying Electrical Contact Cleaner on the heat wires inside the MAF may restore the proper functioning of the MAF by dissolving all the gunk that has coated the wires over time. One brand of contact cleaner is CRC. Probably worth trying before looking into more expensive solutions like getting new parts. If you do give it a try, let us know how it works for you.

Anyone else here have any thoughts on using contact cleaner on the MAF?

nightshift
Posts: 15
Joined: 8 December 2003
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by nightshift »

I tried contact cleaner, good brand, but nothing changed.I tried the car running with the MAF connected and then disconnected and there was no change in the idle problem, so I got a used one sent out. Anyway, before installing it, I compared the resistance of the 2 units at various terminals.
The only reading you get is between #1 and #2 terminals of the 4 (they are stamped and numbered on the unit) results:

Old MAF between 1&2 = 9.4 ohms
New (used) MAF = 10.6 ohms
I installed the new/used one, and the car ran beautiful, end of problem.

My thoughts would persuade me to beleive that if you get this code, anything say in the 9.5 range, maybe below 10 ohms is a good sign the MAF is actually shot, along with first running it with the MAF connected and disconnected.
Hopes this helps someone.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post