due for PCV job

Post by **januwan** » 08 Feb 2009, 18:15

I think I am due for PCV job, oily cap on the valve cover, some smoke from dip stick hole but no codes or any symptoms (may be mileage -23 in the city). I checked the flame trap (it was gone) it was clear but there was thin film of oil.
Is there anything else I could check before I remove the intake manifold.
Should I do this job immediately or I can still wait and learn more about the procedure. I red here, one can mess up injectors if not careful.
What are the consequences of postponing this job for few months

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Feb 2009, 18:41

What are the consequences of postponing this job for few months

Yanking the transmission to replace the rear main seal on the engine.

Other than that you just lose oil.

If it were me I would fix it sooner rather than later.

...Lee

850FLA · Post by **850FLA** » 08 Feb 2009, 20:07

I'm contemplating the same job [120K]. I have a small amount of oil at the cap and flame trap but only a small amount of vapor at the stick. Once it's warmed up virtually no vapor.

IMHO it's a job that is due at about 100k so I am doing it as a service item to avoid just what Lee mentioned...a rear main seal...big pita.

I recommend you do it

Post by **januwan** » 09 Feb 2009, 16:37

Thanks for the comments. I took it seriously

and went to Volvo dealer to check their prices for replacement parts. Just the quote for few items on the list was more than $270 (FCP price for the complete kit is $155) and they quoted $480 for labor. Is it really 4 hours job for experienced mechanic.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 09 Feb 2009, 18:45

The 4 hours is what their book says so whether it takes them that long or not, that's what they'll charge you. A good mechanic who has done this many times can probably do 2 in that time period but will still charge you for 4 hours...that's the name of the business- more money in the dealer's pockets.

You might want to call Jamie or Don in the parts department at Darrell Waltrip Volvo (do a Google search for their 800 number) and see what they would charge for these parts- let them know that you heard about calling them from the forums for them to give you a decent price.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 09 Feb 2009, 18:55

I think most of the stealerships work off of "book times". Doing the job the first time (of three) it took me about 5, maybe 6 hours. The last one I did I think I finished in 2 hours flat. I am a shade tree mechanic but I am not afraid to buy tools so I have a decent set of specialty tools. I also learned that I need additional hose clamps which saved the trip to the Auto Parts store mid job to get more parts on the later changes.

The learning curve is fairly steep on the first shot at it but once you have done the job once it is a relative snap.

It is much easier if you don't have EGR - The first one I serviced did have EGR and the others don't which helps with the quicker times.

If you want to take a crack at it yourself I think we can walk you through it.

...Lee

Post by **januwan** » 09 Feb 2009, 20:06

The reason I asked for labor quote was to figure out how much time it will take me to do it. I do not consider myself experienced mechanic and I usually multiply by 2 labor quoted by dealer. The most advanced job I have done was to replace head gasket on my small Honda Civic many years ago.
This job (PCV) has been described very well for Turbo, my is non-Turbo but I think they look similar under manifold.
I just do not want to damage injectors. I think it was you, Lee who did this job without removing fuel rail. I need to find it again.

Post by **confused_al** » 09 Feb 2009, 20:42

...one can mess up injectors if not careful...

This is one guy from VS did PCV job w/o removing injectors, hope that helps;
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... pic=101431

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Feb 2009, 04:58

I have not removed the injectors on any of them. The only thing that is tricky is getting the fuel return line off since the hose is a little short. I loosen the upper clamp - it is easier to get to the upper clamp than than it is to get to the clamp on the fuel pressure regulator - and then just complete yanking the hose off as the intake manifold is coming off.

If you do wind up removing the rail I would have a full set of O-rings and the plastic injector caps on hand.

...Lee

mingom · Post by **mingom** » 10 Feb 2009, 07:50

On my 98 V70 N/A I didn't remove the injectors, just left it all on the manifold. Funny thing though, there was no fuel return line and no place for one... Just the one hardline on the end of the fuel rail.