Oil Pan Job... How bad?

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 30 Jun 2010, 10:35

So I'd like to do the oil pan o-rings job soon since I'm starting to get a little quick lifter tap at every start-up (even when car is fully warm). I also have some bubbles on the bottom of the dipstick when running; I heard that was indicative of air getting into the system from dying o-rings. Any validity to that?

Volvo quoted me something like $530 and the only indy I know will do it right can't go lower than $500.

Just wondering how bad of a job this really is. Messy I know, but it's not something I want to screw up. The only write-ups I've seen are for older cars, like a 94 850. I haven't been able to find the procedure in VADIS.

gjz30075 · Post by **gjz30075** » 30 Jun 2010, 11:03

Interesting. I've got the same start up ticking issues. I'm going to watch this thread.

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Jun 2010, 11:23

Not bad at all. Start on a Saturday after breakfast and be done before dinner.
VADIS never lists this for the XC but has it for the V70 so here it is.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 30 Jun 2010, 11:28

Do you know where I can find a good write-up/VADIS for this? I searched in the oil/lubrication section of repairs on VADIS, but could not find anything about removing the oil sump.

gjz30075 wrote:Interesting. I've got the same start up ticking issues. I'm going to watch this thread.

Yea, it's that same sort of tapping sound you get after changing the oil on the first start-up. It's starved of oil momentarily, but now I hear that same sound almost every time, although not quite as loudly.

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Jun 2010, 11:30

Keep in mind if you only have the ticking and not the bubbles that you should switch to a OEM Mann/Mahle filter before tearing into the motor. (Mann for canister type -Mahle for filter cartridge type)

Also keep in mind that reports show "only" the Volvo sealant for the pan has held up and many have had to redo this for use of a lesser compound. The little roller for application is always mentioned as "very helpful".

Best Wishes ,
John

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 30 Jun 2010, 11:34

Thanks John!

I always use a Mahle filter (OEM) and good oil. I'm aware of the Volvo gasket sealant being crucial, and the one Indy shop I mentioned is the only one that acknowledged that that was the only one to use.

I'll take a look at the repair guide and see if I can again save myself a nice chunk of change!

One question I have is, how long does it take from when you apply the sealant to when it dries. I've heard that it's very fast once you make the connection to the upper oil pan and secure it in place. I just don't want to run the risk of it drying out before I can push it against the upper pan. I imagine I can do it fairly quickly.. but nothing is ever that simple when I do things.

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Jun 2010, 17:51

I believe its an anerobic sealant ( Can anyone out ther confirm)

Anerobic sealants cure up in the abscence of air . This should give you ample time to roll it on and place the pan back on. Most of the anerobics I use will cure up overnight even if exposed to air. Humidity plays a part in curing time as well.

Plus - putting it on and putting the pan back on is done in a very short time period. You clean up everything before application and then put the pan on the motor. Nothing to worry about here.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 30 Jun 2010, 18:02

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. That makes sense too, and I feel stupid considering that I know what anaerobic is and I've seen it in relation to that sealant before.

I'm having a hard time deciding if I want to do it myself or not though. The write-ups for the older models that I've seen involve bending lines and moving the sub-frame. The VADIS description for the 2000 makes it look like a walk in the park.

I think I'll go under the car sometime and just take a look at how difficult it will be to maneuver.

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Jun 2010, 22:58

You don't have to mess with the subframe; just bend the lines and get the 234908289042 rusted on bolts out of the way.

It is indeed an anaerobic sealant, and I would try to get my hands on the genuine Volvo stuff. Some say Loctite (I forget the number) works, but it's also very hard to get your hands on unless you special-order it.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 30 Jun 2010, 23:03

FCP sells it and I can get it at my local dealer. If it's the same there as FCP + shipping then I'll just pick it up local. I'm going to get a little roller brush like VADIS and others have said to do. Should make applying it easy.

So the lines that need to be bent are the power steering lines? It's funny... with all the times I've been under the car, I apparently don't pay attention to things like this until I need to!

I'm excited to do this, because after that I get to pour in my Lubro-Moly 5W-40! (I've been spending way too much time on BITOG!)