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EGR and Throttle Body Cleaning (Walkthrough)

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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Fish stick88
Posts: 543
Joined: 24 June 2010
Year and Model: 1994 - 850 Sedan
Location: Iowa

Volvo Repair Database EGR and Throttle Body Cleaning (Walkthrough)

Post by Fish stick88 »

After my gas pedal got stuck to the floor, I found I was getting a "no flow" error from the EGR, and also that it needed cleaned out. I ordered the Gaskets, for my EGR and Throttle body, however, I also recommend taking off the intake manifold.
This job is about a 4-5 hour job, if you clean stuff up like you should. The EGR is the only real pain in this project, the rest just takes time.
First take off the negative battery terminal, as you will be unpluging sensors from various areas. Second, take off the Air-Box hose, and Air box - elbow hose.  A bit of bending is needed as well as some force.
First take off the negative battery terminal, as you will be unpluging sensors from various areas. Second, take off the Air-Box hose, and Air box - elbow hose. A bit of bending is needed as well as some force.
Next take off the Mass Airflow Sensor.  The Sensor tail comes off the end. Let it dangle. The two hoses come off rather easy.  The unit itself comes off by a clip at the bottom, push in and pull up.
Next take off the Mass Airflow Sensor. The Sensor tail comes off the end. Let it dangle. The two hoses come off rather easy. The unit itself comes off by a clip at the bottom, push in and pull up.
Pop the link to the throttle body with a screwdriver, make sure not to twist it or bend up the link. there are 3 screws that hold in the cable section. undo the three, as well (what the arrows point too) the wire harness.  Take off whatever vacuum lines needed to get the bolts off, remember where they go.
Pop the link to the throttle body with a screwdriver, make sure not to twist it or bend up the link. there are 3 screws that hold in the cable section. undo the three, as well (what the arrows point too) the wire harness. Take off whatever vacuum lines needed to get the bolts off, remember where they go.
now that the elbow is more exposed, twist out the flame trap, and undo the hose clamp. Mine was loose to begin with.
now that the elbow is more exposed, twist out the flame trap, and undo the hose clamp. Mine was loose to begin with.
First, Take off the Throttle position sensor, (circled) then, 2 vacuum lines at the bottom of the throttle body. Followed by 4 bolts holding it in (Torque of 168lb/in or 14lb/ft) the Throttle body should be free.
First, Take off the Throttle position sensor, (circled) then, 2 vacuum lines at the bottom of the throttle body. Followed by 4 bolts holding it in (Torque of 168lb/in or 14lb/ft) the Throttle body should be free.
Now that the EGR is exposed, follow the Temp sensor, back to its connection, (over by the battery) Unplug it, and untangle it through the wire and hose mess you've created.
Now that the EGR is exposed, follow the Temp sensor, back to its connection, (over by the battery) Unplug it, and untangle it through the wire and hose mess you've created.
Take off the vacuum line at the top, and then proceed to take off the large bolt at the tail end of the EGR, It will need to be broken loose, once you have it off whack it, obviously with something rubber like, I used a wood shim
Take off the vacuum line at the top, and then proceed to take off the large bolt at the tail end of the EGR, It will need to be broken loose, once you have it off whack it, obviously with something rubber like, I used a wood shim
Seriously, this is essential.. No one has hulk hands, and this is the hardest part of the step. <br />Problem A: Tight space- get your hand behind it with the smallest wrench possible to take the far bolt off.<br />Do the far bolt first, have a magnet handy so you don't loose it. also, it seems silly, but tie off your wrench, I dropped mine and it went under the starter, spent about 2 hours fishing it out. <br />problem B - everything done on the far bolt is all 1/8th of a turn with as much clearance is there.  This is why i recommend taking off the Manifold.
Seriously, this is essential.. No one has hulk hands, and this is the hardest part of the step.
Problem A: Tight space- get your hand behind it with the smallest wrench possible to take the far bolt off.
Do the far bolt first, have a magnet handy so you don't loose it. also, it seems silly, but tie off your wrench, I dropped mine and it went under the starter, spent about 2 hours fishing it out.
problem B - everything done on the far bolt is all 1/8th of a turn with as much clearance is there. This is why i recommend taking off the Manifold.
this is the bolt that is on the tail of the EGR if you didnt know, The picture also shows the gap where the EGR sat. Make sure you clean this area off before putting new gaskets on. ALSO clean the hole going down to the EGR, as well as all other connections, that way you aren't re-cleaning 5 years down the road.
this is the bolt that is on the tail of the EGR if you didnt know, The picture also shows the gap where the EGR sat. Make sure you clean this area off before putting new gaskets on. ALSO clean the hole going down to the EGR, as well as all other connections, that way you aren't re-cleaning 5 years down the road.
take off the Temp sensor. and yes. Pepsi
take off the Temp sensor. and yes. Pepsi
This is the hole you will have to drill out (I used the closest sized bit) and it just kept pouring out.   Also use your cleaner of choice, make sure not to get any one the rubber (valve) parts as its likely your cleaner will destroy them.
This is the hole you will have to drill out (I used the closest sized bit) and it just kept pouring out. Also use your cleaner of choice, make sure not to get any one the rubber (valve) parts as its likely your cleaner will destroy them.
I found it easiest to put a dab of super glue to hold the gasket on, while i put it on, hook it by its tail, then put the two bolts in. (as far as torque goes) ((Very SNUG)) as you won't be able to get a wrench down there ((Ozark Lee))<br />They go on as good as they come off. Have some Patience...
I found it easiest to put a dab of super glue to hold the gasket on, while i put it on, hook it by its tail, then put the two bolts in. (as far as torque goes) ((Very SNUG)) as you won't be able to get a wrench down there ((Ozark Lee))
They go on as good as they come off. Have some Patience...
tighten on the throttle body, 14lbs/ft or 168lbs/in don't forget to re-attach the EGR lines, and the sensor. <br />once the Throttle Body is on, attach the two lines at the bottom, and the Position sensor. (I didn't mention it earlier) but your most definately going to want to clean these up, and as much of your engine as you can, if you can hold a suction on the EGR it will open allowing you to clean it further.
tighten on the throttle body, 14lbs/ft or 168lbs/in don't forget to re-attach the EGR lines, and the sensor.
once the Throttle Body is on, attach the two lines at the bottom, and the Position sensor. (I didn't mention it earlier) but your most definately going to want to clean these up, and as much of your engine as you can, if you can hold a suction on the EGR it will open allowing you to clean it further.
The rest is easy, and if you got this far you can handle it. make sure to put the flametrap, sensors, and vacuum lines back in place as you go. Best of luck!
The rest is easy, and if you got this far you can handle it. make sure to put the flametrap, sensors, and vacuum lines back in place as you go. Best of luck!
Ok, if you have any questions message me, I'm on here quite frequently.
Hope this helps. Comments are great. Let me know if I can improve or do something better.
I couldn't remember all the wrenches I used but thats the easy part.
AJ
Last edited by Fish stick88 on 12 Dec 2011, 13:14, edited 1 time in total.
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles

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Post by matthew1 »

AJ, beautiful writeup. This is going in the Repair Database today.


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You have the distinction of writing the first tutorial involving fishing line and a lead weight! :D
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Fish stick88
Posts: 543
Joined: 24 June 2010
Year and Model: 1994 - 850 Sedan
Location: Iowa

Post by Fish stick88 »

The lead weight was just because I didn't want to take it off, it came straight off the fishing pole!
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles

KarlsRanch
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 February 2011
Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
Location: CA

Post by KarlsRanch »

Thanks for the great write up.

I'm looking at cleaning my wife's EGR. Failed smog. I was going to buy a new one but saw so many threads on cleaning. Also replacing o2 sensors.

Just wondering in this section;

"This is the hole you will have to drill out (I used the closest sized bit) and it just kept pouring out. Also use your cleaner of choice, make sure not to get any one the rubber (valve) parts as its likely your cleaner will destroy them."

Where are the rubber valve parts? I'm unfamiliar with the EGR and how it works. I don't want to cause damage.

Also do you have part numbers for gaskets required?

You mentioned removing the manifold to make it easier. Suppose I'd also need a manifold gasket? Does this make it a much bigger job?

Thanks Again, Karls

Fish stick88
Posts: 543
Joined: 24 June 2010
Year and Model: 1994 - 850 Sedan
Location: Iowa

Post by Fish stick88 »

I have not ever done the manifold, but doing so, i believe you have to take off the fuel rail, injectors, and so on, meaning you'd need two more gaskets, The nuts on the egr, are incredibly hard to get to.. you need a egr gasket, tb gasket. and maybe some pb blaster.
easyish job.
4-6 hrs
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles

KarlsRanch
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 February 2011
Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
Location: CA

Post by KarlsRanch »

Thanks - Fish stick88 - do you happen to remember the bolt sizes? I only have sockets and need to buy some wrenches for the job.

Fish stick88
Posts: 543
Joined: 24 June 2010
Year and Model: 1994 - 850 Sedan
Location: Iowa

Post by Fish stick88 »

I do not... However, i do reccomend if you are going to keep your volvo that you buy a set 6-25mm. Its just easier that way. 1/100 bolts are standard, the rest. Metric.
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles

KarlsRanch
Posts: 8
Joined: 7 February 2011
Year and Model: 850 Turbo 1994
Location: CA

Post by KarlsRanch »

Thanks. I'm a metric guy so that's good. Funny that there are some imperial bolts...

~ The rubber (valve) parts you mentioned to be carful of - are they on the inside and how does one avoid them?

Getting ready to do this job soon as smog failed plus some new o2 sensors.

Fish stick88
Posts: 543
Joined: 24 June 2010
Year and Model: 1994 - 850 Sedan
Location: Iowa

Post by Fish stick88 »

The Rubber is at the top part, You can just blow down, not through the top though.
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.

'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles

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