Summer Oil Change To Mobil-1

Post by **rmmagow** » 27 Mar 2012, 07:23

98 V70 166,000
AFIK the car has always had dino oil. I've been running it with 4 qts dino and 2 qts synth since 155000. Oil change is due and I am thinking to go full to Mobil-1 10-30 synth or perhaps another brand 10-30 synth and raise change interval to 7000 miles from 3. I've been reluctant to do this due to fears about triggering oil leaks but my car is proving to be leak free. Can anyone see any issue with this change? The car is used 700 miles a week, 90% highway at 70~85 mph. Although AWD, the propshaft is out. I will be doing a pump-n-dump transmission fluid change to Mobil 3309 since I have a case lying around. I know my car only needs DEXIII but was told 3309 is fine too. No transmission problems, no running problems (except for P0243).
Thanks for any and all advice.

Post by **rspi** » 27 Mar 2012, 08:06

I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic my first oil change at 189,000. No problems at 203,000. I'm turbo and change every 5,000. I would still change every 5,000 to 7,000 just to be on the safe side.

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 Mar 2012, 08:24

Go for it. Don't look back.

instarx · Post by **instarx** » 27 Mar 2012, 12:46

go for it. If you are really concerned about seal leaks (which I don't think you need to be) there is Mobil-1 High Mileage oil that has seal conditioners according to Mobil. I just use regular 0W-30 Mobil 1 in my 155,000 mile engine with no leaks.

luv_my_volvo · Post by **luv_my_volvo** » 27 Mar 2012, 13:53

I used Mobil 1 in my 95 Volvo 850. After 250,000, I noticed oil leaks so I switched away from synthetic. I did not notice any less leaks, so I switched back to Mobil 1. I now have 310,000 miles on this original engine.

instarx · Post by **instarx** » 27 Mar 2012, 16:06

luv_my_volvo wrote:I used Mobil 1 in my 95 Volvo 850. After 250,000, I noticed oil leaks so I switched away from synthetic. I did not notice any less leaks, so I switched back to Mobil 1. I now have 310,000 miles on this original engine.

wow. 330,000 miles. That's impressive.

Post by **jtp** » 27 Mar 2012, 16:27

Avoiding oil leaks will depend more on avoiding oil additives like seafoam than on synthetic. Especially at the Rear Main Seal. An additive wouldn't be the real cause but it could clean out the deposits that are keeping the leak from opening up.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 27 Mar 2012, 18:03

Useful Technical Information to your questions

http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/lubepdf/TG_199708.pdf

http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/lubepdf/TG_200308.pdf

http://www.swepcolube.com/about-swepco
A few of the thousands of valued SWEPCO customers around the globe include industry leaders such as … American Airlines, Amtrak, Archer Daniels Midland, Boeing, Boral Bricks, Cadbury, Coca Cola, Consolidated Coal, Federal Express, Frito Lay, General Shale, Goodyear, Hanson Aggregate, International Forest, LaFarge, Maersk/Sealand, Mack Trucks, Morton Salt, Parker-Hannifin, Pepsi Cola, Phelps Dodge, Safeway, Singapore Airlines, Texas Industries, Tyson Foods, UPS, Unimin, Volvo and Weyerhaeuser.

http://www.porsche356registry.org/resou ... ngine.html

Excerpts from above link:
Best Non-Synthetic Dino Oil: Swepco 15w40 "306" motor oil. Many shops who had been using Mobil 1 have switched to this and most if not all their problems (including bearing failures) went away.

(Best) Synthetic: Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50, or Amsoil Harley V-Twin 20w50. The Mobil 1 motorcycle and Royal Purple Max Cycle oils are also available in 10w40 viscosities. If I was going to be racing, I would use one of these oils or for a paraffinic based oil, the Brad Penn or Swepco oils.

Shops that used to run M1 in their race cars have either switched to Mobil's synthetic motorcycle oils or have resorted to using premium dino oills, such as Swepco 306 15w40 or Brad Penn Racing 20w50 oils, for their higher levels of protection.

Blessings,

BKM
-

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 Mar 2012, 18:46

I would definitely not use a 20W-50 in these motors. Too thick; that's meant for much older motors.

10W-30 should work just fine in your car for the summer. I switch to a 5W in the winter (in VA) and it seems to reduce valve chatter a bit on cold starts.

I've run Mobil-1 for almost 90,000 miles now (since 130,000 - pretty much when I got the car) and it's great stuff. Just recently switched to the "high mileage" variant just because they didn't have my regular 5W-30 at the store in the 5 qt jug, but even at 217,000, I don't think I burn any oil.

Leaking is another matter, but that's just my stupid valve cover bolts.

bguzz · Post by **bguzz** » 28 Mar 2012, 07:00

I use M1 HM 10W30 and run 10K intervals after using Quaker State dino for the first 100K miles.

I drive 800 miles a week with 90% of that being highway at 70 - 75MPH. I now have 374K miles on it (98 S70 N.A.).

Oils are much higher quality than they were 10 years ago. I have gone 11K on the oil before and still have no issues.

We need to learn more from the europeans on oil changes...they go even longer than that in many cases (though their oil is formulated slightly different). Seriously...how many miles do you want to get out of it? I am going to 400K then and moving to a new vehicle then...it won't be because of the engine...but everything else.