A/C Compressor Pulley Sticking

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 19 Sep 2012, 07:09

Hi All,
I have an 96 850 GLT auto that I recently had inspected. I don't drive it all the time and have never really used the a/c since I bought it used. Last summer I had to add a can of freon b/c the a/c was cycling on and off. It worked but never got as cold as I imagine it should have.

I assume the inspection garage turned the system on which may have irritated the compressor....any way I heard a new squeaking, sorta scrapping noise from the compressor area so i turned on the a/c near full and took a look and saw it was the compressor pulley wheel spinning and then sticking in place with the belt not moving it. As it sticks more, I can smell what could be the compressor electric "burning" type smell.

I have attached two vids with sound....one is to hear the noise and the other shows the pulley wheel not spinning. Don't know a lot about a/c. Is there a way to "lubricate" the compressor?
tnx

ps...cant attached files as mp4 or avi....so the face of the pulley seems to turn independently of the grooved wheel itself....they both can move in general but as I mentioned the pulley wheel stops and the belt slips over it intermittently.

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Sep 2012, 07:17

You have a leak somewhere in a/c system and it will lose oil. The compressor has failed and is locking up.
Once you have it seizing like that the only solution is to replace the compressor. But there is no need to replace the compressor without repairing the leak. The leak has a very high probability of being the evaporator inside the case inside car.

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 19 Sep 2012, 08:20

HHmmm.....tnx for the reply. If that is the case, my next question is if and how I can put off a big a/c project until spring. with the a/c and AUT setting off, how bad is it to drive the car with the pulley wheel intermittently spinning or sticking other than the annoying increase in engine noise?
tnx

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Sep 2012, 08:28

Unplug the two wire connector on the large a/c line that is behind engine on passenger side. That will stop the compressor power supply.

Post by **kcodyjr** » 19 Sep 2012, 08:31

Wouldn't be a bad idea to bypass the compressor pulley with a shorter serpentine belt. Gates K060495.

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 19 Sep 2012, 12:22

Tnx....few questions; If I cut the power to the compressor will the belt still try to turn the wheel and will it free up the wheel some how or still tend to be intermittently stuck? Or is this why getting a shorter bypass belt is suggested?

Also, is there a way to add the special oil (what is it and how?) to the compressor to free it up to last through the winter? Would this work?
tnx...

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Sep 2012, 13:35

If there is no problem when it is turned off then there is no need to do the bypass belt.
Adding oil requires removing the refrigerant, adding oil, and then evacuating and recharging. All this with a VERY low probability that adding the oil will reverse the problem at all.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Sep 2012, 15:44

My son had the bearings lock up on the clutch on his '96. At that point the only option was the bypass belt until we bought a junk yard compressor and re-did the system.

...Lee

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 20 Sep 2012, 06:45

Tnx for the replies!! I'll try killing the power and see if that is passable. If not then I'll do the bypass belt. Lee do you recall what belt you used? Is it the before mentioned Gates K060495? And then i'll have to start looking for a good post in the forum for the steps involved for redoing the system so I can prepare for the project..
tnx

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 Sep 2012, 08:25

That belt number is what I used and it worked fine. You need to alter the routing to the "old style" routing to get it to work.

The correct routing with the shorter Gates belt is, going counter-clockwise, from the crankshaft across the top of the idler to the alternator. From the alternator you go up to the power steering pump and then around to the bottom of the tensioner and back to the crankshaft.

If you have a Haynes manual it shows both the new style and old style belt routing.

...Lee