PCV Write-up for 1999+ Volvo 5-cylinder 31325709

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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dosbricks
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Re: PCV Write-up for 1999+ Volvo 5-cylinder

Post by dosbricks »

I'm just finishing up the PCV job on my '96 wagon and thought I would offer a tip. I was casting about for a suitable tool to clean the ports on the block which the PCV box connect to. I found that a paint can opener has a flat nicely-hooked end that with a bit of relieving on the underside with the edge of a grinder wheel made it even better for raking out any sludge inside the ports. I also slightly curved the edge to make it conform to the inside of the round port. Will keep this in my tool box for next PCV change.

Sincere thanks to mikealder for this excellent DIY--especially the advice to check the lower port on the block to ensure it's not clogged. It was very reassuring to hear my puffing produce copious bubbles through the oil in the crankcase. Perhaps always using synthetic oil after the first year has kept the engine a bit cleaner--plus being an NA.

dos
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I am very familiar with my 1998 S70 GLT PCV but...

I need to ask some gurus about my 2005 XC90 2.5T with 82K miles (this forum has more traffic thus the question for my 2005 XC90)...

Questions, since I am stressed for time:
1. The Hose #1 broke at the yellow "X" mark. Is there any way I can do this w/o removing the Intake Manifold?

2. Hose #2 seems fine (hose with coolant pipe): when do you guys replace this hose: 100K, 125K, 150K?

Thanks.

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2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I was lucky, I found the solution (I don't have to remove the Intake Manifold, which makes me very happy). From what I gather, here is the trick (see the link below):

1- Basically, PN 30713469 (plastic) has been replaced by PN 8692217 (rubber), $22 at dealer.

2- Use a long flat screwdriver to gently undo the Oetiker at the bottom. During install, use regular clamp b/c it is impossible to use Oetiker clamp with the Intake Manifold in place.

3- For the Valve Cover area: if you are clever, you can re-use the Oetiker clamp, which seems to be better than regular clamp for this location!


http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthrea ... -this-hose
DYZ wrote:The whole piece is plastic, not rubber, and yes, it is very brittle. There is another section on this tube that is corrugated and I found it is cracked too. I googled and found sites like Edmunds and Carfax mentioning engine reliability issues from MY04 Volve XC70. Here is the comments from Carfax:

"Periodic problems on this vehicle are the failure of the Engine Intake Valves, Leak Detection Pump and Crankcase Ventilation Hose under the intake manifold"

My XC70 is an early build of MY05 - I bought it in Nov. of 2004. So, my guess is that it was still using MY04 crankcase ventilation hose which is a plastic piece. Apparently, this hose (part# 30713469) has been replaced by part# 8692217 due to its premature failure and is the reason why I cannot find it anywhere. What surprised me is that this problem has not been mentioned on this forum until now.
Last edited by cn90 on Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

mecheng
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Post by mecheng »

"Engine Intake Valves" - What was Volvo's fix for this. Did you get a XC70 or 90, you wrote both.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Went to dealer and bought PN 8692217, which is the rubber hose from oil trap to Valve Cover.
This is procedure for my 2005 XC90 2.5T, which is basically the same as in this thread.

NOTE: flash light and mirror is crucial!

1. Use a long pick tool with pointed tip and gently pry the Oetiker clamps just to loosen it. Don't force it too much as you can damage the oil trap nipple.

2. The LOWER part of the broken hose: get a pair of needle-nose pliers, grab the remaining rubber part and yank it upward.

3. Undo the #3 Ignition Coil (8-mm socket). No need to disconnect it from the connector. This gives you access to the Oetiker clamp.

4. Undo the Turbo Cooler Hose near the dipstick area.

5. I re-used the UPPER Oetiker clamp because in this location many people have problems with screw-type clamp (crowed are, ignition coil etc.). During install, I simply crimp it a bit with the pair of cutting pliers I have lying around. Gently clamp it so it does not cut through. In fact, it is very very difficult to cut through anyway.

6. The LOWER part of the new hose: Use a 12-mm long socket to enlarge the hose and let it sit for 5-0 min so the hose is stretched bigger a it. Then place a screw-type clamp on it before installation. I also oiled the inside of the hose a bit so it slides in better.
- Make sure the hose is fully seated on the oil trap before tightening the clamp. TRICK: with the clamp snugly on, use a long flat screwdriver and push down on the clamp only, taking care not to damage the rubber hose. When you do this: the hose is pushed down and the clamp is also pushed down.
- Make sure the clamp is about 1/2" from the lower edge of the hose, then tighten it.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

If the only part you replace is PN 8692217 (hose to the top), the trick is inserting a socket to the lower end and let it sit there for 1-2 minutes.

The idea is to expand the inner diameter a bit because you basically insert this lower end of the hose down to the oil trap "blind" (well, with very limited view).

Once the hose is expanded a bit, you add some oil to lubricate it and should be able to get it in without issues...

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2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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Post by j-dawg »

doing this job on my 99 T5 right now. i removed the hose from the thermostat to the banjo fitting because i'm an idiot, and soaked my alternator with coolant.

the T5's ETM is under the manifold, not next to the airbox as on the NA cars, so to remove that banjo fitting i had to pop out the intake pipe to the ETM and rotate the entire manifold counterclockwise (as viewed from the front). this worked, but i was worried that i would damage something (fuel line, ETM, manifold sealing surface) banging the intake around like that. anyway, i'm taking a break from the job because i think i expended my quota of f-bombs through to late 2015.

i have no idea how i'm going to get it all back together. is there a better way to do this, or do i just have to wrestle with it again? i can't imagine this is How It's Supposed To Be Done, and i am pretty skeptical that anyone without two or three elbows per arm would be able to reinstall the stuff that goes under the manifold.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold

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Post by j-dawg »

also, what else should i be doing while i'm in there? right now in addition to the PCV system, i'm planning to:

- clean the ETM
- give the block a bit of a scrubbing
- replace injector seals - i cracked a pintle washer
- replace dipstick o-ring
- replace the worst of the crumbling wire loom (anyone got suggestions for something more durable than the plastic stuff?)

anything else to clean or replace?
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold

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Post by abscate »

Clean your starter connections nice and shiny and bright.

I'm throwing a code for bad knock sensors so I'm going to replace those...( they come as two sensors on one wire loom)- that job looks impossible on the turbo without ETB removal

Clean ETB of course.
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Post by mikealder »

One other tip with the inlet manifold off is to re-route the ETM cable from behind the starter motor, makes subsequent removal for cleaning so much easier especially on the Turbo engines - Mike

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