Adjusting nonhydraulic timing belt tensioner on V70

Andalusia · Post by **Andalusia** » 23 May 2013, 14:05

I searched the forums and found plenty of info about changing timing belts that use the hydraulic tensioner but not any about how to set the non hydraulic one. I have a 1998 V70 GLT. According to the engine number, FCP tells me I need a kit with the non-hydraulic tensioner.
I saw one video on youtube for a Volvo S60, that describes moving the cam to the 7 o'clock position but also it said that on certain ones you have to move it to the 2 o'clock position.

Here is the link to the kit on the FCP site. http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... t331wp1-oe

Post by **xHeart** » 23 May 2013, 14:43

Andalusia wrote:I searched the forums and found plenty of info about changing timing belts that use the hydraulic tensioner but not any about how to set the non hydraulic one. I have a 1998 V70 GLT. According to the engine number, FCP tells me I need a kit with the non-hydraulic tensioner.
I saw one video on youtube for a Volvo S60, that describes moving the cam to the 7 o'clock position but also it said that on certain ones you have to move it to the 2 o'clock position.

Here is the link to the kit on the FCP site. http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-t ... t331wp1-oe

Are you replacing front cam seals with your timing belt replacement?

Post by **xHeart** » 23 May 2013, 14:44

Also see this masterful write-up by cn90 https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=53722

Post by **rspi** » 23 May 2013, 17:15

Did you look at which one you have? Takes about 5 minutes.

Andalusia · Post by **Andalusia** » 24 May 2013, 10:24

rspi: I have the mechanical tensioner. It looks like the adjusting lever is at 7 o'clock as in the video. I'd like to find some detailed instructions on how to adjust it.

xheart: The front cam seals don't appeart to be leaking at all. I looked on all sides of them with a mirror. So I don't think I will replace them.
There is a fair amount of oil on the engine behind the TB and at the bottom of the TB cover. I believe it is from the cam shaft cover gasket leaking.

Thank you for the link xheart. That is a great write up but he has the hydraulic tensioner, not the mechanical.

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 May 2013, 11:24

The cam cover usually doesn't leak up top unless one of the metal plugs in the aluminum is leaking.
If your cam seals are leaking you will see the oil in the area of the timing belt.
If you could take off your side cover ( separate power steering res from coolant tank and flip up on top of engine. Then remove single (10mm or 12mm) bolt in side cover. Then pull side cover up and slightly forward) and post a picture it would be very helpful.

Here are some guides to get you started.

Andalusia · Post by **Andalusia** » 24 May 2013, 12:20

Here are some photos. There is quite a bit of oil. Third one shows it on the aluminum on the area of the cam shaft cover gasket. The seals around the cam shafts appear dry and clean from what I can see by looking through the holes in the cam shaft pulleys.

The spark plug wells contained a thimble full of oil in the ones in the center. That's what made me suspect the cam cover gasket.

That pdf on the tensioner is very helpful by the way.

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 May 2013, 14:40

I can almost see the exhaust cam seal and it does look dry.
A couple of hints.
I change the seals behind the cam pulleys when I do a t belt as they are cheap and I have to take off the pulleys to align them properly anyway. By using a cam pulley alignment tool (aligns pulley to cam) you might be pleased with a increase in mpg and power. My 95 NA was a night and day difference. Much peppier and 3 more mpg for that 95.

Most of those top oil leaks come from a failed seal under the oil cap combined with over pressure from a dirty oil trap port/box. Perform the glove test and let us know.

When adjusting manual tensioner the clockwise vs counter clockwise turning of them to tighten is important. Make sure to check the procedure for the correct way to move the 6 mm hex. Also a step that is often missed is to set the tensioner and then turn the crank (by hand) forward a bit. You will see/feel the intake side (intake cam to crank) of the belt become tighter. When this happens -set the tensioner again. Its a step that is often missed. If you do it correct, with the cover off, while running , the tensioner indicator will stay where you put it and not move back and forth.

Best wishes,
John

Andalusia · Post by **Andalusia** » 24 May 2013, 15:44

Hi John,
Thanks for the reply. I was having enough trouble screwing up my courage to tackle the TB and WP change,lol. I'm relieved that the seals are dry. I think I'll let sleeping dogs lie.

I had the oil trap and hoses changed a couple of weeks ago. Now there is a positive vacuum at the oil filler hole. Hopefully that and a new oil cap gasket will slow the oil leaks down.

What is your opinion about changing the serpentine belt tensioner roller when replacing that belt? The car has 147 k miles. Can the roller itself be replaced or do you just have to bolt on a whole new tensioner?

Post by **xHeart** » 24 May 2013, 16:56

There is some wetness around exhaust seal's lower left quarter, gravity at work.