1. I use a bent piece of sheet metal (a soldering iron stand) that has rounded corners and smooth straight edges. Do NOT use a screwdriver nor pry at the corner or you will break or chip the cover's handle. Do NOT use anything with a thin or sharp edge that could snag or tug on the fabric.
2. Slide under the full edge on one side to distribute the force and gently work one edge down...
3. ... then the other side.
4. The handle is just a barb or friction clip, but may be stubborn if you do not use the right tool.
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6. Work to separate the fabric towards the rear of the car. You may need to close the panel more to get farther back.
7. Using a long, smooth tool, free up the fabric out to the sides. Even if still attached, open up each side. Do NOT poke with the tool, rather roll it or help pull it cleanly to avoid stretching a bubble into the fabric.
8. Make sure there are no attachment points and that there is just one big unobstructed pocket.
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10. Try and find one with a fan nozzle, which I prefer to orientate horizontally, not vertically. Spray a light coat on both the metal and fabric aiming for the hardest to reach spots first (back center), then the other areas not already covered. Multiple light coats with an even film are better than one heavy or gloppy coat and will hold the fabric better. Also, old fabric and glue can be dusty so some adhesive is needed just to bind the dust together so it can not prevent adhesion. Repeat on other side.
11. Also spray down the center via the handle hole. If you can do so without stretching the fabric, visually confirm the metal is evenly covered with adhesive as well as the fabric. (Note: many photos have a reverse "L" in the middle. Something on the camera lense, not on the headliner.) Take your time as a good even coverage on both parts is essential.
12. After allowing the adhesive time to set up (see can instructions), line up and gently press the fabric at the back of the handle hole. Begin to lightly tap the fabric in place or gently roll, but DO NOT TUG, PULL, NOR RUB the fabric as that will stretch it and leave a wrinkle of extra fabric at the end.
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14. Starting from the center, evenly begin to adhere the fabric in a light rolling motion, slightly radiating to the corners and making sure to avoid folds. TIP: if you think there might be a bit too much fabric at the corner which will leave a wrinkle when you get to the edge, stop and lightly press a very narrow line in the middle (1/2), then between that line and either edge (1/4, 3/4) then in those middles (1/8, 3/8, 5/8, 7/8) so it more evenly distributed.
15. Using the tool slide it up to the edge and make a sharp corner along the sides except at each end -- leave those open a bit. Then press up (against the ceiling) and out (toward window) directly in the center to push the fabric between the metal plate above and the metal lip below (a little rocking back and forth may be needed to start). The resistance will lessen as the fabric rolls out from being doubled around the tool to laying flat on the plate.
16. Pivoting one corner in an area already tucked, tuck another small section, and repeat working your way to the corner. DO NOT SLIDE THE TOOL STRAIGHT DOWN THE EDGE.
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18. Work your way back to the corner being careful not to create a wrinkle. Once there, it's almost impossible to pull it out due to the adhesive without pulling all the fabric free again!
19. Work your way to the front in small swinging bites to tuck the other end.
20. Now you can press firmly (but not enough to damage the board) all along the liner. It should slide easier now without the sagging fabric dragging on the back edge of the trimming.
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