1998 V70 Died while driving - won't start, no spark

kjhiggins · Post by **kjhiggins** » 30 Jun 2014, 20:34

I posted this on another site but haven't received any responses - apologies for posting this on two sites but I am very frustrated with this problem. My 98 V70 (287,000 miles, NA) died while I was driving on a local road with no warning (no sputtering, etc.) and I can't get it to start. I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key and I have pressure at the fuel rail. The starter turns the motor and I can see the camshafts rotate. I pulled the coil wire leading to the distributor and I don't get a spark.

I checked the coil, camshaft position sensor connector, and crankshaft sensor by following Chilton and various posts here and on other sites.

1. Coil has proper resistance for both the primary and secondary winding test and has proper voltage at the leads.
2. Crankshaft sensor has correct resistance - 312 ohm
3. Camshaft position sensor connector has the correct voltages and resistance at the terminals. I swapped the cam sensor out for a wrecking yard one but it made no difference.
4. There is continuity between cam sensor connector pin 2 and pin A21 in ECU
5. The light for winter mode is lit on the mode selector buttons even if it is in sport or economy mode when I turn the ignition on
6. The only OBDII code was for a coolant temperature sensor that has been bad for some time but the 'check engine' light turned off recently anyway. I changed the sensor but it made no difference
7. I can feel the main relay 'click' when the ignition is turned to position 2

This is the first time I've been at a complete loss as to what to do next. Any suggestions? Does the transmission mode 'W' light mean anything? Should I trust a wrecking yard cam position sensor - at least for testing?

Thanks,
Kelly

Post by **cn90** » 30 Jun 2014, 21:39

I am giving you the checklist for "engine stalling", this is simply a laundry list for you to go over...

FUEL:
- Make sure you have at least 1/4 tank
- Is fuel contaminated with water
- Even though you hear fuel pump, don't assume it is good. Search for the fuel system troubleshooting I wrote a while back and measure the fuel pump resistance via the socket in the fuse box.
- Jump #15 and #87 to see if car starts.

IGNITION:
- Spark plugs
- Coil, cap/rotor
- Cam Sensors, Crank Sensor
- MAF: disconnect the MAF and see what happens
- ECT sensor: I understand you replaced it, was it Volvo brand or some aftermarket brand? Check the connector/wiring as well. Some people have had wiring issues!
- Air leak: any broken vacuum hoses
- Idle Control Valve: clean it anyway, make sure you apply clamp to the hose when done.

kjhiggins · Post by **kjhiggins** » 30 Jun 2014, 22:26

Thank you for your response. It seems the fundamental issue to solve first is the no spark condition so the status of the fuel system, spark plugs, MAF, ECT, Idle Control Valve, and vacuum hoses are secondary unless they can lead to a no spark condition. The car was running absolutely smoothly when the motor just stopped - I wasn't even sure it had died except that the warning lights on the dash came on and the steering became difficult. There was no sputtering or any other rough engine behavior prior to this incident.

There is no spark from the coil - disconnected the lead to the distributor and there was no spark to ground while cranking the engine. The coil winding resistance matched that listed in Chilton and there is power to the coil leads. I suppose it still could be bad so are there other tests that I can do before replacing it? I just put in a new crankshaft position sensor even though the old one had resistance within spec. How likely is it that the second camshaft position sensor (from the wrecking yard) is bad as well? Do they go bad with age or usage? The car I pulled it from had about 1/2 the miles (144,000 vs 287,000) my car does but it was 3 years older (1995 vs 1998).

Thanks again,
Kelly

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jul 2014, 01:02

Have a good look at the distributor cap and rotor for cracks. The way your car died is pointing more to some component failure rather than wear/tear though.

"Big Swede" lol. Made me think of the Marine in "heartbreak Ridge"

Post by **rmmagow** » 01 Jul 2014, 07:10

Get a new coil. Readings can be deceiving and it'll at least eliminate that from the equation. Cam sensor difference, I don't know if that would be an issue. Look it up on-line at FCP etc and see if part numbers are the same for 95 and 98.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 01 Jul 2014, 07:50

Did you disconnect the MAF? I don't know if a bad one will stop the spark or not. Mine stopped on interstate at slow speed with all dash lights coming on, pulled the MAF and I was able to drive home. I see it was mentioned in another post.
Shane

Post by **cn90** » 01 Jul 2014, 08:18

The ignition coil in these cars rarely goes bad, but if you have one lying around, then yes swap and see. Junk yard has this for about $10.

In simplistic terms, the modern fuel injection system works by INPUT and OUTPUT:

INPUT:
- ECT
- MAF
- Cam, Crank Sensors
...to name a few

OUTPUT:
- Fuel Pump
- Fuel Injectors
- Spark

So anything wrong with INPUT data can cause a no-spark condition!

Always always check the INPUT side...

kjhiggins · Post by **kjhiggins** » 01 Jul 2014, 09:29

Thanks for all the input. Just went a got a coil and another cam sensor from a wrecking yard but still no spark. I disconnected the MAF but there was no change. The new ECT is an aftermarket but one I've used before and had no problems with it.

Is there any information to be gained by which dash warning lights stay on and which turn off during cranking? Also, does anyone know which transmission mode selector light should be on when the key is in position 2 and when cranking? My 'W' light is on and I can't get the 'S' or 'E' lights to turn on even when I press the buttons. I may be making more of the mode lights than they're worth but I'm just curious.

Should I look at getting a different ECU - perhaps from a wrecking yard just to test if there is something wrong with mine?

Thanks again,
Kelly

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jul 2014, 10:41

Not yet. Thats calling the neurosurgeon for a splinter at the moment.

kjhiggins · Post by **kjhiggins** » 01 Jul 2014, 12:55

So a few questions that have popped up while researching this problem:
1. Immobilizer - can this be causing the problem? Some people say it won't crank and others say it will if the immobilizer is activated. I have a fuse labelled 'Immobiliser' - what happens if I take it out?
2. Main Relay - I can feel it 'click' when the ignition is turned on and I even jumpered it with no effect - is there anything else I can do with it?
3. What lights should be illuminated on the dash when the key is in position 2, and which ones should turn off when left in position 2?

Thanks again,
Kelly