2000 V70 will not run after intial start

zlrig · Post by **zlrig** » 12 Jun 2015, 17:25

Hi All,
Well I got the head together and reinstalled back on the engine today. Double checked everything and it looked OK.
Moment of truth, .. it started and ran. a little rough with a slight miss, but it ran about a minute or so then I turned it off. Topped up the fluids and now it will not start. No pop or anything.
I have always been concerned about the key as the rubber portion is not too stable. it is torn and loose, but intact.
I did a quick check with VIDA and tried to check the immobilizer functions to see if that is my problem.
I will attach a picture of the screen shot. Maybe one of you can decipher and explain the values I got.
I see the two relays are on and I am wondering if that is why it is not starting...... it the immobilizer active?
Like I said, it initially started and ran until I turned it off.
What are the symptoms of a bad antenna ring or key?
Thanks, JB

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Jun 2015, 17:29

Hi, I can't comment on the immobilizer question (someone will!) but it is very common after opening up the engine, that if you only run it for a minute it will suffer "lawn mower syndrome." Lots of posts about that, give it a search if you want more background.

Does it sound like compression is good, or is it just spinning freely (or you can check compression)? If spinning too easily, then try one teaspoon of oil in every cylinder, then crank it a good 60 seconds with the throttle wide open. If it starts to pop and wants to catch, then you have find the problem just keep on cranking until it fires up.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Jun 2015, 18:29

From the VIDA screenshot the immobilizer is working fine. Typically when there is an immobilizer problem the car will start but die after about 1 second.

...Lee

Post by **precopster** » 13 Jun 2015, 04:04

Do usual checks as though immobiliser is fine ie fuel and spark. Immobiliser cuts spark so if no spark THEN suspect immo.

zlrig · Post by **zlrig** » 13 Jun 2015, 11:20

Thanks guy's for the input!
I went out this morning after work and quickly checked the fuel pressure. NADA, ZIP !
Hmmm, was working when I took it apart!!
I removed the core of the Shraeder valve at the end of the fuel rail and ran a hose from there to a can. Turned the pump on with VIDA and got fuel flow. I let it run and after about two minutes I started getting air.
Odd, with the fuel gauge showing over a half tank!
That's where it is at the moment. I will check for fuel and pressure to see what's going on.
I will let you know what I find.
JB

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Jun 2015, 12:38

Is this a FWD or a AWD car? On the AWD cars the gas tank is more or less split in two and there is a second fuel pump that pumps fuel from the left side to the right side. The main fuel pump is on the right side and it is the high pressure pump that sends the fuel on up to the engine.

On a FWD car it is just a single fuel pump that is easily rebuilt with a new cartridge. On the AWD you need to either remove the entire rear suspension, drive train, and the fuel tank to replace the pump or cut an access hole in the floorboard. The latter method is much easier. Hopefully you have a FWD car.

...Lee

zlrig · Post by **zlrig** » 13 Jun 2015, 17:28

this car is an AWD version with the split tanks. I added more fuel to the tank and it is putting out a steady stream of fuel.With the system returned to normal, I have residual fuel pressure at the fuel pressure tap.
I thought you could operate each coil pack through VIDA, but I don't see it on the 2012 version I have. Did I miss something?
With a spare coil pack I do have spark , which is a good thing!
I rechecked my timing belt installation, was still good.
Decided to pull the plugs and check the compression. This is where it got interesting!
I noticed green coolant flowing from under the car! I WAS NOT A HAPPY CAMPER !!!!
It was coming from the cat converter. How the @#$% can that be?
At that point I was regretting buying this mess!
When the car did run I heard an exhaust leak from under it. Ok whatever.
Well after checking the interior tunnel area around the heater core for fluid, luckily I found none.
I decided to pull the outlet off the turbo to see how much fluid was in it, again luckily none.
I then again pressure checked my cooling system to find only a small leak at a loose hose. so far so good!
AT that point I realized the coolant leaking from the cat was GREEN. Hmmm, I put Volvo BLUE coolant in the car. I suddenly feel a whole lot better! Although there must be a hole in the cat converter, The coolant must be from the head pull and leaked into the exhaust some how. I did pull the lower hose from the inter cooler to see what came out, again nothing there. So I am going to assume there is no leak inside the turbo. The coolant level in the tank never dropped at all.
So back to finding out why it won't start!
I pulled the plugs and checked the compression, 90 across the head. Not the best, but way better than before. Squirted some oil in the bores and rechecked, now up to 135. I also noticed allot of residual raw fuel in the cylinders and the plugs were wet.
I blew everything out and cleaned the plugs. put it back together and gave it a try.
Prior to trying it I did leave off #1 and 5 injector plugs.
Well I got some life from it!!! There is hope!!
I decided to plug in the other two injectors and try it. A pop or two and nothing again.
Well it is somehow getting way too much fuel. I guess when it was initially reassembled and totally dry
it was lean enough to start. but as others have said, with each start it dumps raw fuel into the system.
I pulled the plugs again and will let it dry out awhile. I need to pull the fuel rail along with the injectors and check for leaking. I am sure some are.
If anyone has made it through all this and followed it, any feedback would be great!!
Thanks, JB

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Jun 2015, 18:26

This really sounds like classic flooding/lawn mower syndrome, which is pretty common. No more, no less.

You're on the right track. I would dry out the fuel, put some oil in each cylinder, install and connect everything for all 5 cylinders, crank it for like 60 seconds until it starts. Along the way it will sputter and pop but eventually catch (if it doesn't you simply have to go through the process again). Then it will spew a bunch of smoke from burning oil and whatever else is in there from the rebuild, and then run. Let it run for like 15 minutes, really.

zlrig · Post by **zlrig** » 13 Jun 2015, 20:06

That sounds like a plan!!
I'll keep y'all posted

zlrig · Post by **zlrig** » 14 Jun 2015, 17:08

OK, It is alive!
I tried the oil and dry out method again, but it just stumbled a couple times but no start.
After reading multiple posts on multiple forums, I had to agree, it is just flooded.
From what I gather, on a cold start the injectors will dump a load of raw gas into the manifold and the throttle body goes to wide open (WOT). It will crank and crank with no start or even a pop.
I tried cranking it for almost a minute at a time, but it really accomplishes nothing and I don't like doing that to the starter.
I finally just pulled off the 5 injector connectors and cranked it for about 10 seconds and it fired right up!
I then put the injector connectors on one at a time and once it cleared the excess fuel out it idled fine.
I also read that one guy found no power to his throttle module, so I decided to check that also.
On the ETM connector there are two 18 gauge wires, one, white/green with 12 volts and one, brown which is the ground. The others are signal wires apparently to the ECM. A missing ground or 12 volt source and the throttle body won't function.
My car when it was in the "will not start mode" after a start attempt would whine from under the intake manifold. Then a few seconds later you could here the throttle body butterfly snap shut. That confirmed the power to the throttle body.
Again this information is what I believe to be mostly right and any corrections or additions are welcome!
It seems to be running ok at the moment with a slight miss and code on number 5 injector.
Can anyone tell me what the gizmo is on the intake plenum before the turbo? It is between the line coming from the pvc box on the front of the engine and the intake plenum. It has two wires on it and is not the map sensor.
The car will smoke some times and I am wondering if this a valve of some sort venting pvc gases into the intake.
Again, thanks to all that relied with info! It is really appreciated!
Thanks, JB