1996 850 20V Timing Belt Kit and Water Pump

[rspi]

I always find them at O'Reillys. Is your front lower engine mount bad? Usually causes your engine to tilt towards the passenger side.

[abscate]

The left hand note up above is important. You want to apply 'pure torque' to that fastener - and when you use a pipe, it is really easy to apply sideways force to the pulley. This will strip your Torx fastner and leave you with a real mess to deal with.

If it doesn't loosen with that pipe, stop and get some lubricant down into it over a few days. More force will break something for sure.

[PeteB]

Yes, I get that you have to keep pressure pushing in the Torx bit and keep
it square in order to avoid stripping. I'll hit it again with PB Blaster and see
how it goes. It has not slipped off even once, I'll try again today.

Edit: Opened the new idler and I see that the bolt is included to the following
is moot:
I did not plan to use a new bolt but I suppose it is a good idea, not sure if
our local dealer stocks them or not. Probably if they are used on several
models.

[PeteB]

GOT IT! I used a 3/8" drive T45 Stanley brand from Walmart, I've found their Stanley
tools to be of excellent quality. The bit would fit but not with the ratchet drive so I
used Vice Grips (VERY tight) on it along with a pipe and it finally gave.

Last issue is that the crank end does not seem to have the two V cuts that Robert shows
in his video. The low side of the teeth seems to have a single dip, looks sort of like
made with a punch. Did Volvo use different types of marks?

Cam marks line up, engine runs fine, should I just assume that it is right now and put the
new belt on the same way?

Thanks again everyone!

[abscate]

Excellent job, Blue leader. Get yourself a case of beer for that one.

[PeteB]

Thanks! Any tips on the crank marks?

Edit: Just remembered that the timing marks on the crank line up with the belt
as Robert points out as a second check so I think we're fine. The crank mark lines
up with the left edge of the belt.

[erikv11]

Yes, there are two types of crank pulley marks. Either two on the peaks, or one in the valley.

[PeteB]

Thanks erikv

OK, got all the old parts out and I see that there is a plastic pin as part of the
lower plastic housing that is blocking the belt from coming off. Is that there
just to make it difficult to do this job or was I supposed to take the lower
plastic housing off? I didn't notice that step in either video.
It seems like it is impossible to get the old belt off or the new one on.

I read somewhere that some people take the harmonic balancer off, but I don't
want to risk turning the crank with the belt off. I take it that the large 30mm
bolt has to come off or is it just the four 10 mm screws?

[beigg]

FWIW - I went with a FCP kit last fall when I replaced my timing belt, water pump, etc... I recall it was a real pain getting the old gasket off the engine block, but so far so good. And it took an extra set of hands to get the timing belt on, it was tight.

Shouldnt be "tight" when slipping it on. Only firm tension top and forward facing once all is assembled.

[beigg]

Thanks everyone, bought the kit from FCP. I've commented that I live very close to
FCP and have walked in to buy parts many times but it is the corporate headquarters
and is not really set up for over the counter sales. The town has forced them to stop
the counter sales since the office building is not intended (or zoned?) for that sort of
thing.

It is an NA wagon.

Aw man, since when?