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98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results Topic is solved

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sleddriver
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98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results  Topic is solved

Post by sleddriver »

Always curious whether the sled's WG rod was properly adjusted, I recently verified that it was not! Matter of fact, it wasn't even close!

IPD has a good video on the process as well as a chart stating what the threshold should be. In my case, for the B5234 T3 motor, it's 4.4psi. I borrowed a Mitey-Vac with both vac & press. capabilities, but found it not to be working very well. So I used it's gauge to set a secondary air pressure regulator's output to 4psi and then used this preset pressure instead of the MV.

While removing the turbo heat shield, I noticed the lower, pass-side retaining bolt was bent. Odd that as I've owned this car since 11,000mi, nearly 17 years, and have never removed the heat shield. Removal was straightforward however, and soon I was looking at the top side of the turbocharger. I unclipped the actuator rod from the WG arm, moved it off to one side and saw this:
Turbo Wastegate Adj 004.JPG
According to a dial indicator, I have to pull out the rod about 0.07" (2mm) in order to slide the hole over the pin.

Next, I applied 4psi, made sure the WG was fully closed, and saw this:
Turbo Wastegate Adj 006.JPG
Turbo Wastegate Adj 002.JPG
In order to slide the hole over the pin, the arm needs to be shortened 0.285" (7mm)! That's quite a lot! We're way beyond 2 turns here! I marked the top of the jamb nut and began turning it CW, following up with the flattened end tab as I went, checking to see when I could easily drop it over the pin. It took 7 turns. However the inner tab threads bottomed out and I was unable to fully turn it all the way so it snugged up tight to the nut. So I had to turn the jamb nut about 1-1/2 turns CCW to "jamb" it tight against the tab. Point is the adjustment rod is STILL too long...not by much but the fact remains.

I checked everything two more times: The pressure regulator, gauge, etc. to triple-check my work. It still came up the same. And I was using 4psi, not 4.4psi.

So I started wondering "How in the world could it be this far off? I've owned the car for 17 yrs and....wait a minute." Then I remembered that the dealer had used this car as a customer loaner, some sales guys were driving it, etc. before I bought it from the dealer. No "individual" had ever owned it before me. Given the bent bolt, I got to thinking that maybe the dealer "de-boosted" it before loaning it out to minimize wheel spin, torque steer and traction issues when it rained and some customer put their foot into it! Makes sense. Problem is, they never re-set it and I've never thought to verify it....until now.

Bummer.....I've been driving a de-tuned, de-boosted T5 for 17 yrs!

My indy said he's never even checked one and relies on the factory for correct settings. When I mentioned the "dealer loaner use" though, he agreed it was possible and made sense. He loaned me his fuel pressure gauge, which reads both vacuum (in inches of Hg) and pressure (in psi). I duct-taped it to the windshield and connected it to the vac tree on the intake manifold.

At idle, the sled motor draws 17" Hg and the needle is very steady. Under partial throttle, boost is between 3 - 6psi. There is a noticeable improvement in torque in the low RPM range, starting around 2300 or so. Under full throttle (WFO), boost maxed out at 13psi, with the needle dipping a few psi, no doubt due to the actions of the TC solenoid.

This explains some previous experiences. Boost up top seemed OK, but I had to go WFO. Lower rpm though seemed sluggish and weak. No wonder as it appears the WG was always open before, not allowing any low-boost to build up and perhaps continuing to dump boost at higher levels. De-tuned indeed.

The only DTCs to arise have been for a cyl #2 misfire. I think it's time to replace my ignition wires & maybe plugs. This same code popped up last year during extended high-speed hwy driving. I did the spray test and can see HV electricity leaking around the wires + coil, so perhaps it's time for the coil to be replaced. Time for some resistance measurements.

Now that I have the fuel pressure gauge, I'm going to compare the readings with the MV's and see how close they are. The former has a finer scale and would make setting 4.4psi easier & more accurate.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by abscate »

I think you will be lucky if that gauge reads +_ 5% full scale or 1.5 psi error.

I have to find my turbo gauges and donate them to Matt
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by sleddriver »

So what "turbo gauge" did you use that's more accurate? Does it have a calibration certificate?

Didn't have time to build a water manometer big enough nor do I have Hg to build a smaller one. 1 psi = 27.7 IWC so 4.4 psi is 122 IWC. Half that is 61", so that's a rather tall water manometer. It would be very, very accurate though......
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by abscate »

I had a brain fart - a Class B gauge is typically 3% full scale.

I use the IPD gauge which is 15 psi full scale, so error of roughly 0.3 psi in the area of measurement needed.
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by jonnycycles »

I'm in the middle of re-installing my turbo right now, so this is a very timely topic!

I understand how to set the wastegate, but can't find the proper pressure to use for my car. I have a 2000 V70 XC with a B5244T engine. I watched the IPD video and found the chart at the end, but this engine is not listed. I fired up Vadis and found a similar chart in the adjustment procedure, but again the B5244T engine is not listed.

Any ideas?
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by precopster »

I don't know why Volvo list this 2000MY engine as just a T instead of a T3. It's the same engine as a 2001 model XC70 which is a T3 and has identical output. What does the engine number say next to exhaust port number 1 ? (facing up on the block)
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by jonnycycles »

precopster wrote:What does the engine number say next to exhaust port number 1 ?
Looks like number is hiding behind the heatshield and I was running out of time so I didn't get there. The S/N sticker on the timing belt cover just notes B5244T. I did find a chart listing the engine here - http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... surge-help which notes 12.5 kpa (1.8 psi) which is the same as the B5244T3. Its also the most conservative setting so I set it there and the car drives well.
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by jenkinskg »

I had 2 saab turbo's years ago and did not know what boost was until it was tightened.
My 2.3 hpt seems ok but have not checked it
My assumption was after years the spring gets weaker from heat, I saw IPD does have a wg upgrade I think.
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by sleddriver »

abscate wrote:... a Class B gauge is typically 3% full scale. I use the IPD gauge which is 15 psi full scale, so error of roughly 0.3 psi in the area of measurement needed.
Did some reading up on this and you make a good point. Researched low-pressure gauges and noticed several mentions of "Class B" and higher specs.

I replaced all of the o-rings in the MityVac and it now holds vacuum to 28" Hg. However, the pressure function still doesn't work. Lincoln Industries closes at 4:15p CST and haven't been able to free up time before then. Hopefully tomorrow. Found an old product sheet for this pump, which ID'd it as a 04555. So it's one of the old 4000-series. There are several other parts in the rebuild kit besides the o-rings, so that looks like the route I'll take. It's pressure gauge is 30psi full-scale and MV lists it as a 3-2-3% gauge.

I've since done some more experimenting by shortening the WG adj. rod as much as possible. Until it the rod bottoms out internally. At this setting, boost quickly builds in the lower RPMs, the car has far more torque and feels more "punchy" and responsive. No low RPM turbo lag what-so-ever. As stated previously, boost was 3 - 6psi over several days of in-town driving, at low to moderate throttle pedal. Putting my foot into it and holding netted about 13psi. MPG definitely takes a hit however in city driving. From the research I've done, this appears to be normal for a 98 T5.

Sunday evening, I decided to back off two turns from this MAX setting to compare & contrast. The sled is back to being a dog in the low RPM range. No "enthusiasm", "eagerness" or "authority". Instead it drags and drags until RPM and Velocity is built. Flooring it results in ~ 3 sec. lag while the turbo spools up and pressurizes the intake. No doubt MPG will be up, but the car exhibits no "pep" and feels quite "lathargic". Like it has no turbo at all.

This is QUITE A DIFFERENCE for two turns....more measurements are planned once the gauge issue is sorted. Obviously, the sled is "set" very conservatively, with only the smallest adjustment available into the proper range. As previously stated, I'd bottomed out the rod inside the adj. tang with the hole in the end: I can't go any further! Doing so would require grinding off the end of the rod to shorten it. On the other end, it appears some cars have much more adjustment capability. To the point of the engine management system taking over, cutting off fuel flow, dumping excessive boost and illuminating the CEL. None of that going on here....not even close. Odd that......

My TCV is OEM and original (18yrs old). Needs to be tested for leaks. I've read of others replacing the TCV + the red, blue & yellow vacuum lines and reporting "like new performance". The two "upper" vacuum lines (blue and yellow) have been replaced with silicone but the RED COMPRESSOR line is still original. Found an earlier post of mine here, where someone recommended using small, angled pliers to get at it. Another suggested using an 18" flat screwdriver to pry it off from below, due to the tight working space. Makes sense. It appears to be "hot vulcanized" to the metal tube itself. I may even need to cut a slit in it first to remove it.

Looking forward to more experimenting, keeping track of the results by measurements and "dialing it in". Stay tuned....
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
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Re: 98 V70 T5 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

Post by sleddriver »

UPDATE I:
After reading up on the repeated failure of the large, hard-line in the PCV system, even after only a few years, I decided to check mine. Sure enough, it was broken. Fractured right under the dist. cap. There was about 6" of line between the fracture and the large rubber 45° elbow. The pipe was still flexible in-between, so I'm not sure why it chose to break where it did.

I temp. fixed this using silicone tubing until I have the opportunity to replace the entire line with either copper, aluminum or fuel hose.

I bring this to your attention now because if yours IS broken, inside the foam sleeve, you'll have a very large unmetered vacuum leak you won't be able to see, it probably will not set a CEL and your MPG & boost performance will suffer. Part of Stage Zero should be to verify this hard-line isn't broken inside the foam sleeve. Several months back when smoking the intake + engine, I never saw any smoke coming from here.

I will add that I temporarily applied duct-tape over the PTC opening, then secured with a zip tie. The performance increase was noticeable from a dead stop and through the lower RPM region as well. Unfortunately, I also smelled the crankcase fumes coming into the A/C vents, evidently from the seam between the metal body & the plastic top plate, just below the windshield. My cover had warped over time as there's not enough screws to hold it down across its width to prevent this.

This is worth checking out, even if you replaced everything a few years back with OEM parts. This is an OEM hose that will quickly fail, leaving you with an unmetered vacuum leak right where the PTC/intake/turbo inlet connection is.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM
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