1996 850 NA Auto CV Boot Part Numbers and Install

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 07 Dec 2016, 21:01

Trying to order a few more parts from FCP and am planning to do the axle boots in
the Spring. Collected some notes here from this thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=64252

erikv11 wrote about an Audi inner boot that fits the NA Auto:
"northernlights figured it out and outlined it very clearly it in the very first post
f this thread: GKN 300597 works great for the inner."
From: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64252&start=40

Pelican Parts has the Audi Inner GKN boot kit under this part number: 893-498-201-B-M60
GKN 300597 is an Audi part that fits 850 NA automatics and is sold here cheap, but
shipping is not cheap:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/8 ... B-M60#tab1

Going to get the outer from FCP since they provide a lifetime warranty and it is on closeout:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... o-31256235

northernlights wrote:
The grease capacity of the joints is as follows:

OEM NA outer joint 80g
OEM Turbo outer joint 120g
Inner joint, NA or Turbo, 190g

This means if you buy the two kits from GKN you end up with 4 80g tubes, or 320 g total.
You need 310g total for the turbo axles, or 270g for the NA, so the turbo kits combined provide what you need.

I had some trouble finding info on the inner joint grease capacity, but I actually came up with that number
(190g) in two places, so I am pretty sure it is accurate. And yes, regreasing the joints is a very nasty job so
I am trying to make sure I don't need to redo it too often.

Inner boot for those who want to use the exact Volvo part, cn90 writes:
"To settle this issue, since this is a BIG job (a lot of labor and hassle etc.), if you want simple life (well you
can use the Audi boot), then head to local Volvo dealer and buy PN 31256225 for $32 and done with."
http://www.jimellisvolvoparts.com/p/Vol ... 56225.html

I hope that the above part numbers are correct.

I'm getting this Oetiker Hose Clamp tool to bring the order from FCP up to free shipping:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/ear-cl ... s-cta-4210

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 08 Dec 2016, 07:26

cn90 shows how to do the transmission seals here second post:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 2&start=30

cn90's notes:
A NOTE on Trans seal:
- Note that it is about flushed or at most 0.5mm from surface. Don't drive new seal in too far, you may end up with a leak.
- The seal has 2 lips: the inner lip is the actual seal (it is tightly sealed due to the garter spring), the outer lip is basically there to prevent dirt from coming in.
- I used the pry bar to remove old seal.
- New seal: although you can use a 1.5-inch PVC coupler, I prefer a small piece of wood and install it flushed.
- Seal is by Corteco (Freudenberg-NOK mfg), purchased from rmeuropean dot com for $11. It is an exact fit and finish.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 08 Dec 2016, 07:28

The outer boots are split, thinking now I should do this ASAP since winter salt
is coming. Is it reasonable to do the outer on the car without doing the inner?

Post by **850 LPT** » 08 Dec 2016, 11:00

I don't think that would make much sense.

You have to take the axle apart anyways, why not replace both at the same time? Plus, if you ever want to do the inner seal at a later time, you would have to remove your nice fresh grease from the outer boot and clean everything all over again.

Just my 2 cents.

Dirk

Post by **erikv11** » 08 Dec 2016, 14:03

The factory inner boots can last a very, very long time. If they are in good shape then yes, you could do just the outer CV boots. But I can't imagine doing a boot swap without pulling the axle, and if you are that far along then I would agree with the points made by 850 LPT. Do them both.

One winter I had a boot split, and couldn't get to it for a couple weeks or something. So I patched it up with duct tape and a heavy gauge trash bag. I was only driving it in town, and had to check it every few days, but that cheap band-aid approach lasted until the spring without letting grime into the CV. You need to be very careful about where you place the duct tape etc, make sure the joint still flexes like it needs to.

Or you could try one of those generic split boots they sell at the auto parts store. Those are a complete fail as a long term solution, but should get you through a few weeks or so as a temporary, especially if you can put it on over the existing boot. Supposedly you don't need to pull the axe to put those on.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 08 Dec 2016, 14:25

Thanks, I watched a generic video where they could do the inner without doing the outer,
it seems that doesn't apply here. On the other hand, if we can get another 100K miles from
the inners I might just not do them at all.

I really like the split boot idea but I need to get 4-5 months out of it, I'll do a bit more research
into them. Is there a generic grease that I can use until I do the full job?

It was in the 50s last week but now it's in the 40's and not much fun working out there. My
garage is kind of tight to be pulling axles out but we'll see.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 09 Dec 2016, 14:25

The split boot comes with grease, here it is but based on this video I might
as well use the correct boot even if I don't do the inner until a long time later:

Seems to be a lot of work to piece the small parts together on the small end:

I just have to remove the nut, the lower control arm and pop the clip?