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1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

PeteB
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1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:50 pm

I'm planning to try to do as many of the vac lines tomorrow and taking a look today
I see that there are several different sizes. If anyone knows the sizes that would help.
I'm starting with this excellent thread, but the details cover non-SAS versions only:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=65002

I've done some work around the air box and notice that what I think is 1/8" vac line
that I had on hand is loose on the hard plastic line. I saw 4 mm line at the auto parts
store and will measure the plastic pipe tomorrow to see if that will work.

I also took a look at hose #4 (vac to purge valve) which I can see collapse when I start
the car, and it is larger than 1/4 in perhaps 3/16" will fit - can I use fuel line there?

There is a small nipple on the flame trap from what I remember working on it some
time ago, and that line is cracked - not sure where the other end goes. Is this line #3
that goes to the other end of the manifold, he calls it Flame Shield.
Flame Shield is the same as Flame Trap?

We don't use the cruise control and I assume that I can just cap off the connector for it.

I'd like to buy all the hose that I need in advance but am not sure what sizes to buy, so
I'll probably try to size it all up tomorrow and make one trip to the parts store.

I'd like to get the vac leaks fixed and a smooth idle before I start to do the PCV work
so that I don't have two simultaneous problems to debug if anything goes wrong with
the PCV repair - is this possible or are the two connected?

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PeteB

Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Fri Dec 09, 2016 8:06 pm

Should have read that entire thread, erikv11 wrote:

The silicone looks cool (it typically comes in red, blue or black), is easy to work with and will last forever, but rubber is much cheaper and will last for several years. You can't really go wrong either way but if you buy silicone it is worth buying from a reputable vendor, some of the lines on eBay are very thin walled and maybe not worth your time.

Here are notes about the sizes, everything is listed in terms of ID (inside diameter).

Lines 1, 2, 5, 6 and 8: For these I use all the same, small diameter line. I know for a fact that either 3.5 mm (9/64 inch) or 4 mm (5/32 inch) works well in all of these locations. If you go with 4 mm you may want to ensure some attachments with a small ziptie or a clamp. Tighten sensibly, don't overly squish the silicone with metal clamps.

Line 3: Use 3/16 rubber vacuum line. Don't use silicone; it will work OK but it will sweat oil and make a mess. 4 feet is more than enough for a non-turbo car, it will be inexpensive.

Line 4: This line is 6 mm (1/4 inch).

Line 7: This brake booster line is 8 mm ID (5/16 inch). Be sure to use something thick-walled here. No cheapo hoses allowed, it's your brakes. Fuel line is good if you go with rubber.

For lengths you're going to have to go out and measure if you want to be sure. Offhand, for one car I would probably get 15 feet of the smallest, then 3 feet of the 6 mm and 3 feet of the 8 mm. That's overkill on all of them but a little leftover can be handy later on. Cost before shipping would be about $25. You could probably get that down to $16 if you measured.

I bought the silicone line in the pics from another forum user, who had it left over from one of the "kits" you can find. But I did later buy more of the small (4 mm) line from siiconeintakes.

So I would recommend either go with straight rubber hoses (any auto parts store) or for immortalized hoses go with siliconeintakes ( http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ ), look for the "Boost/Vacuum Hose" link. Their prices are among the lowest out there ($1.00 to $1.50 per foot for the sizes listed here), shipping is fast, and most importantly the quality is excellent. Their lines are very thick walled which is more important on a turbo vehicle, but still a nice way to go on the NA. And essential for the brake booster.

PeteB
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PeteB

Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Fri Dec 09, 2016 8:19 pm

erikv11's list for non-SAS (I'll try to update this with info for with SAS) with sizes and rough lengths:

So this post will cover non-SAS vehicles only, none of my cars have SAS. Maybe someone else can post up the SAS info.

There are basically 8 vacuum lines in the engine bay to deal with:
1 - 3.5mm vacuum tree to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
2 - 3.5mm vacuum tree to the airbox cover, upper nipple
3 - 3/16" intake manifold (IM) nipple to the flame trap nipple
4 - 6mm 1/4" throttle body nipple to the purge valve
5 - 3.5mm purge valve to the charcoal canister
6 - 3.5mm airbox cover, lower nipple, to the bottom half of the airbox
7 - 8mm fitting on the throttle body to the brake booster
8 - 3.5mm cruise control pump back through the firewall

3.5mm 9/64" probably 15 ft
6mm 1/4" 3ft
3/16" 4ft
8mm 5/16" 3ft

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Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Sat Dec 10, 2016 9:54 am

deleted ...
Last edited by PeteB on Sat Dec 10, 2016 10:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

PeteB
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Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Sat Dec 10, 2016 10:22 am

I wondered why there was vac going to the FPR and this thread explains that the
goal is to have constant fuel per millisecond of injector opening across all manifold
vac levels. I wonder how badly it runs with that line leaking or off?
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=54895

I see now that he does the FPR line without removing the manifold.

Why does the FPR line go to a metal line, where does the metal line go?

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Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by abscate » Sun Dec 11, 2016 5:47 am

It will run badly

Look at the vacuum diagram under the hood to trace the FPR line. I believe it goes back to the vacuum tree
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PeteB
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Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Sun Dec 11, 2016 3:16 pm

I went to buy vac line today, will not have time to order silicone and the NAPA
sales guy said that they only have SAE sized line. They just matched up the
smallest line to the nipple on the Flame trap cover that I brought and came out
with line that was .15625" ID - enough significant digits for you? That is
actually 4mm and fits fine.

One other note, line #3 that starts at the side of the manifold, has a 1/4" nipple
at the manifold but the list calls for 3/16" line which fits the flame trap end but
not the 1/4" end. It is snug on the flame trap but not real tight - use a clamp.
I'm going to run about 6" to a foot of 1/4" line then get a 1/4" to 3/16" barbed
reducer and go the rest of the way with 3/16" line.
The factory setup had a reducing elbow right at the manifold end and ran a
rather small hard plastic line off of the reducer to another rubber piece to
mate it at the flame trap. The small line looks restrictive and is gone with the
new setup. The small plastic line was cracked on our car, causing a massive
vac leak for the last year or more. Prior to digging into this I couldn't even see
where the lines went. It was cracked both at the flame trap end and the
manifold inlet end.
Last edited by PeteB on Mon Dec 12, 2016 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

PeteB
Posts: 807
Joined: Tue May 27, 2014 5:50 pm
Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon
Location: Connecticut, USA
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PeteB

Re: 1996 850 20V Non-Turbo Vac Lines With SAS

Post by PeteB » Mon Dec 12, 2016 11:04 am

I'm finding that 5/16", line #7, does not fit for the brake booster line, probably need 3/8".
Also 1/4" from the manifold line #4 to purge valve needs to be 5/16" on this car.

Also, lines 4 and 7 go to nipples on the intake manifold not the throttle body.

It is possible that silicone hose gives more so that it fits, not sure but no way
these are going on.
I'll document this better when I'm back inside and done with the car.

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