P80 Ignition switch, Electrical part, 9447804 Root Failure Analysis Topic is solved

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1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Volvo Repair Database P80 Ignition switch, Electrical part, 9447804 Root Failure Analysis  Topic is solved

Post by abscate »

Most of us have had to replace the electrical part of our ignition switch on high mileage P80s - I dove into my replacement from 2013 and this is what I found,comments on pictures

Executive summary - these switches can probably be put back into service by opening them up and cleaning the points inside the gray cover.
Part top view
Part top view
Part Side view
Part Side view
Unstaking gray pot metal case, easy with small screwdriver or punch
Unstaking gray pot metal case, easy with small screwdriver or punch
View of cam and operating of points on terminals
View of cam and operating of points on terminals
Apart
Apart
Ready to pop off gray cover - note index
Ready to pop off gray cover - note index
View of case, cam, points - note index mark and also ball/groove
View of case, cam, points - note index mark and also ball/groove
Points view
Points view
Points view
Points view
Close up of points in Term 30, 10x macro  - pitting evident
Close up of points in Term 30, 10x macro - pitting evident
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Post by erikv11 »

These switches are often very loose when they are failing too, so the key rotates back and forth with little resistance. Can you tell or speculate what would cause that?
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

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Post by matthew1 »

Someone years ago said heavy keychains can cause problems with ignition. I have about 5 keys and my Volvo key, and no BS on mine, so I don't have any first-hand experience. But some people like to load up on the crap for their keys, and that weight swinging and pulling down for thousands of hours probably does it.
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Post by matthew1 »

Good post abscate. I'll put it in the VRD.
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Post by abscate »

The 5th and 7th picture give you an idea on this erik.

IN the 5th, you can see there are white plastic eccentric cams - these open and close points which connect the various terminals based on switch position. There are two radii of points and two plastic cams that open/close them by the way.

In the 7th, you can see the ball bearing and groove that limits the rotation of the switch - Im guessing this wears out and the ball pops out, relieving tension and giving the 'loose spinning key' scenario

Worn cams will allow spinning, and perhaps are root cause of the points not fully closing, creating electrical chaos.

OF course, points can pit and grunge, like mine were, so Im guessing thats more likely how they fail.

Oh, important safety note. Some of the points are all normally closed, so don't put this back into car to test it without the cam in place - that could cause all sorts of havoc.
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Post by cn90 »

I did this cleaning for the "sake of science", ha...

- Problem: Sometimes cannot get out of Park ---> Drive, sometimes no headlight, sometimes turn signals do not work (but hazard light OK). Read the post by jblackburn and followed his advice, brand-new Volvo ignition switch ($55) solved all the problems!

- So I opened the switch as abscate showed above just for the heck of it. I do not plan to keep this switch simply b/c $55 every 10y/100K miles is not a bad thing. Plus it is a safety issue, I hate to have something going wrong with the "15" or "30" circuits causing stall etc. But I can see where abscate is coming from.

- I marked the 2 halves before separating them.

- Note the small amount of pitting where the contacts are. I made the mistake of pushing the copper tab out a tad too much, I could not bring it back properly for proper contact. So if you decide to clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, just slide the sandpaper down that tight space and slide it back and forth. Do NOT bend the copper tab like I did. This may work for people who are short on budget and are willing to take some risks refurbishing it. I have no desire to do that.



IgnSw-01.jpg
IgnSw-01.jpg (361.63 KiB) Viewed 1656 times
IgnSw-02.jpg
IgnSw-02.jpg (148.7 KiB) Viewed 1656 times
Last edited by cn90 on Sun May 28, 2017 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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Post by abscate »

Nice. We can sell these to the Scots as almost new for a fiver, with a gallon of slightly used engine oil thrown in for free.
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Post by scot850 »

Where do I sign up for them....?

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
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Post by precopster »

scot850 wrote: Sun May 28, 2017 2:48 pm Where do I sign up for them....?

Neil.
I was waiting for that. :D
Current cars:2002 XC70, 2006 Ssangyong Rodius (Stavic), 2006 XC90 2.5T, VW Transporter 2.5TDI

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Post by BEJinFbk »

For anyone into serious rehab of switch and relay contacts,
this is a handy little addition to your tool collection:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GC-Electronics- ... 0420528397
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

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