1998 V70 Rear Door Spring/Shock 9485548

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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MrAl
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1998 V70 Rear Door Spring/Shock 9485548

Post by MrAl »

Hello,

Is it hard to replace the springs/shocks that hold up the rear door on a 1998 v70 wagon?

Any other way to hold the door up that has been tried and proven?

Thanks.

Also, it looks like there might be an "Adjuster" tool or part. Make any sense?
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I need to do this as my 86 year old Mom deserves more than a broomstick for the tailgate.

Part numbers from FCP site for reference

1999 Volvo V70
DETAILS
FCP Euro ID: 720
Made in Mexico
Quality: OEM
OE NUMBERS
9485548, 3509482, 9187315
MFG NUMBERS
SG415009
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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

abscate wrote: Tue Dec 19, 2017 3:55 am I need to do this as my 86 year old Mom deserves more than a broomstick for the tailgate.

Part numbers from FCP site for reference

1999 Volvo V70
DETAILS
FCP Euro ID: 720
Made in Mexico
Quality: OEM
OE NUMBERS
9485548, 3509482, 9187315
MFG NUMBERS
SG415009

Hi,

How hard do you think it is to replace them?
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I haven't done it yet, Al, so lets wait for someone who has to chime in
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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

Hi,

Ok sure, thanks
I also saw that maybe the ones from the 850 fit this v70 too, wonder if that is true.
.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

TWC
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Post by TWC »

MrAl wrote: Tue Dec 19, 2017 12:29 am Hello,

Is it hard to replace the springs/shocks that hold up the rear door on a 1998 V70 wagon?

Any other way to hold the door up that has been tried and proven?

Thanks.

Also, it looks like there might be an "Adjuster" tool or part. Make any sense?
Anything which is long, sturdy and safe against toppling enough...that door is quite heavy as you sure had found out for yourself.

It's not that hard but takes some time especially when you do it for the first time as you have to remove a number of interior covers (roof liner which carries the luggage dome light right behind the door, side covers of the rear windows). You need at least a small slot screwdriver to pry off the covers to the screws which requires a Torx driver (I think it was a size T25, but better check for yourself). After you have taken out the screws, you can pry off the covers carefully.
Something which can be used as a lever to pull the dampers from the seats if they are fast can be useful, too.

Protip: better spend some money on quality parts. The first replacements I had bought (out of curiousity...didn't expected too much of them from the start) were cheapo Chinese clones which required some serious alignments to make them fit - and one of them peed out its oil right after closing the door the first time. Either use the original Volvo parts or the ones by Stabilus (if available on the US market).

I have neither heard nor used an "adjuster" tool for the dampers - all I had to do were adjusting the sockets a little bit to make them fit on the seats.
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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Not particularly hard to replace, but be prepared for possibly broken plastic panels and clips bt on this panel it is not too bad.

You have to remove the upper plastic panel above the side windows in the load area. There is a T25 (?) screw that has to be removed from in the recess for the plastic molded hook built into the panel. If you look at the 2nd picture below you can see the hook about half way along the top of the side window. You have to pry out the upper tailgate surround to allow the lower side window panel to be released at the back to get the upper panel released to remove it. You have to work it out from the panel that runs across the tailgate opening, and unsnap the 4 or so metal pins at the rear edge.

Easiest way is to pry out the speaker cover. Then with a soft tool pry under the edge of the panel at the tailgate end which will help release the 3 or 4 metal locating pins at that edge. Using the speaker cover hole pull the panel away and down from the window. There are 3-4 snap plastic clips along the length of the panel above the window. Slide the panel rearward and rotate the bottom of the panel away from the side window. This should allow you to remove the panel completely. Take your time and don't be too brutal or you could crack the panel.
Rear panels in load area
Rear panels in load area
Upper load are panel
Upper load are panel
With the upper panel removed you can then access the clips/mounts for the tailgate strut on that side. Support the tailgate with a piece of wood to allow you to remove and replace the strut.

Then repeat for the other side.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

Hi,

Ok it doesnt sound too hard to do, but it does sound tricky. Pulling panels off, getting the thing to fit, getting the panels back on properly. Maybe i'll just go with the broomstick idea :-)

Now, where is the best place to put a stick to hold up the door. It cant slip or it could hurt pretty bad or even break the window, which would cost a lot more than two new spring/shock/lift things.

I also see lift shock prices ranging from about 11 dollars (USD) each to about 20 dollars each, even 25 dollars each.

I also cant help but wonder if we could just stick something in the hole when the door is open, where the curved part enters the body. Looks like a dowel or something might jam up the mechanism and keep the door open. That would take maybe a 6 inch dowel, possibly with the body of the dowel partly whittled down into a long 'cone' shape. Sort of like how a house door wedge keeps a door open.
Any ideas on this?
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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Post by abscate »

I put my broomstick into the glass in the corner and then prop it on the floor. I'll try take a picture today.

I've tried to use a wedge in the top method but you really have to make that custom to work and I struggled to find a good shape or place.

I'll have a new driver who is elderly in the Spring so I have to fix this right and will go with the Stabilus. OEM Volvo are $90 a piece. Ouch
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Post by jtp »

@OP I leave a lot of bigger jobs to technicians having learned from experience but this is pretty straightforward.
Key for those not especially mechanically inclined like us is doing a lot of research and taking your time with the job.
The IPD video on their site is really helpful on this one as well as all the advice in this thread.

I propped my tailgate up with a bunch of boxes. Made it hard to move around back there, not my best idea
99 V70R AWD
Almost 155K Miles
Breaking is how I know it’s working

98 S70NA (sold)
95 850 Turbo Wagon (RIP)

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