1998 V70 Rear Door Spring/Shock 9485548

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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erikv11
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Re: 1998 V70 Rear Door Spring/Shock 9485548

Post by erikv11 »

MrAl wrote: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:05 am
scot850 wrote: Thu Dec 21, 2017 10:50 am Take your time and it is not a particularly hard job. I supported the tailgate door with a 2" x 4" wooden joist for this job.

The plastic is not too bad to remove, but try to use trim plastic removal tools at the rear edge by the tailgate.

Neil.

Hi,

What about getting the old shock off and the new one on? Any problems there?
The old shock pops off with a screwdriver, just pull the wire retainer off if there is one (usually is). Very, very easy to do.

Manufacturing a hold stick that involves drilling into the plastic seems like a bad idea (plastic may crack under pressure, for example) in addition to being more trouble than it is worth. You want to be able to adjust how open the door is, so that it is just right, basically fully open, it is nice to be able to fine tune the opening (by moving the stick) otherwise installing the new shock can be a hassle. A scrap 2 x 4 propped against the metal edge of the door does that safely and easily.

I have changed these things like five times now, this job is a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale, no need to over think it!
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

erikv11 wrote: Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:16 am
MrAl wrote: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:05 am
scot850 wrote: Thu Dec 21, 2017 10:50 am Take your time and it is not a particularly hard job. I supported the tailgate door with a 2" x 4" wooden joist for this job.

The plastic is not too bad to remove, but try to use trim plastic removal tools at the rear edge by the tailgate.

Neil.

Hi,

What about getting the old shock off and the new one on? Any problems there?
The old shock pops off with a screwdriver, just pull the wire retainer off if there is one (usually is). Very, very easy to do.

Manufacturing a hold stick that involves drilling into the plastic seems like a bad idea (plastic may crack under pressure, for example) in addition to being more trouble than it is worth. You want to be able to adjust how open the door is, so that it is just right, basically fully open, it is nice to be able to fine tune the opening (by moving the stick) otherwise installing the new shock can be a hassle. A scrap 2 x 4 propped against the metal edge of the door does that safely and easily.

I have changed these things like five times now, this job is a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale, no need to over think it!

Hi,

You make it sound a little easier so perhaps i'll wait and see how Steve makes out with his as he's just getting two new ones too, and then go from there.

Also, yes the plastic might crack over time i did not think about that.
So maybe i'll use a 1x2 for now and after i hear how Steve's install goes i'll order two new ones. What the heck, it cant be that hard to do can it? :-)
Probably after the New Year.
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TWC
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Post by TWC »

erikv11 wrote: Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:16 amThe old shock pops off with a screwdriver, just pull the wire retainer off if there is one (usually is). Very, very easy to do.
Mine were a bit more resilient - had to fight with the largest screwdriver to get them off. Once they were out, I had noticed that what once was grease had turned into something similar to epoxy putty while them wire retainers were missing. Therefore (as a tip to Al) it's a good idea to clean the socket from any muck clinging to them. If ordering the Stabilus dampers, they come with a good dab of fresh grease already attached.

Anyway...second time I had tackled the dampers (to replace the Chinese incontinents with the Stabilusses) it took me about 30 minutes for the complete task, including a cigarette break.
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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

Hi,

Ok thanks, i'll see how it goes when i get that far.

I saw a video now too, and it looks like they are taking a LOT of plastic panels off to get to it. Strange.
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Post by wizechatmgr »

MrAl wrote: Sun Dec 24, 2017 1:25 am Hi,

Ok thanks, i'll see how it goes when i get that far.

I saw a video now too, and it looks like they are taking a LOT of plastic panels off to get to it. Strange.
The two side upper panels come off after the one with the light in it. Should be one screw in each of those side panels and two in the center.
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Post by abscate »

Pretty soon Erik is going to complain that we are making this too complicated, but I bet he doesn't even give advice on what to do with the broomstick afterwards.

What kind of cigarette for the break? Did the dampers put the cigarette out?
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Post by scot850 »

You don't need to take the center light panel off. You can turn the upper trim panels as they lower and it will clear the center panel.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
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Post by MrAl »

abscate wrote: Sun Dec 24, 2017 5:50 am Pretty soon Erik is going to complain that we are making this too complicated, but I bet he doesn't even give advice on what to do with the broomstick afterwards.

What kind of cigarette for the break? Did the dampers put the cigarette out?
Hi again,

I was hoping to hear from you again after you did the replacement to see how it went.

I was going to use the 1x2 because then i can make it variable length with a simple phillips screwdriver. Two pieces actually, where one is screwed with two wood screws into the other forming a longer piece. If too short, just unscrew/screw again, if too long, same thing. A lot of screwing around maybe but only once or twice should do it :-)
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1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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Post by abscate »

I just found a standard broomstick traceable to NIST works well
image.jpg
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Post by MrAl »

abscate wrote: Mon Dec 25, 2017 4:38 am I just found a standard broomstick traceable to NIST works well

image.jpg
Hi,

They wanted an extra dollar for that one so i passed :-)

I'll take a pic of mine too when i get it out there. You'll see why i wanted to do it this way.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
1998 v70 on the road since April 2nd, 2015

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