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Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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jsloden
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Post by jsloden »

Gonna see if anyone else has had this problem. I replaced almost every suspension part underneath the front of my car a couple of weeks ago. Since then everything has been perfectly fine, except for one thing. The bottom nut on the passenger side end link will not stay tight. It's actually a nylon lock nut. It's loosened off twice. The last time I tightened it I actually put blue loctight on it. That fixed it for about a week. Well, last night the popping came back. It's loosened up again. I really hate to put red loctight on it because I might actually need to get off one day but I'm running out of options. Would anyone know of a reason that this would be happening?

Thanks

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

Are you using the counter hold to tighten?
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jsloden
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Post by jsloden »

Yep, putting a wrench on it to hold the stud in place while I tighten the nut. Believe me, the last time I tightened it I used a two pound sledge with a wrench and blue loctite thinking that would hold it. Am I correct in thinking that it doesn't matter which way the links go on? You can't really put them on upside down can you?

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

I found you have to tighten those quite a bit more than the OE torque spec. The hole through stabilizer bar is a little bigger than the bolt stud on the end link that goes through it. Because it doesn't fit snug through there it likes to wiggle and loosen the nut. So you just have to tighten the heck out of it to lock it in place by compression force.

I would imagine some supplier either OE or aftermarket has properly sized the bolt stud so that it's snug, preferably with smooth shank that first few MM where it sits through the stabilizer bar. But maybe not: I haven't seen any. Most of the ones I've seen just duplicate the lacky (IMO) OE design there (bolt stud too small or hole too big however you look at it, threaded shank through the stabilizer bar).

Oh geeez more Evil commentary..
This is probably another case where because the HP aftermarket segment doesn't pay attention to us, we never get access to quality aftermarket parts that properly address OE design/fab issues. The best quality parts available merely duplicate the OE parts exactly (and sometimes minor obvious flaws) then goes downhill from there.

clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Check the hole that the end link is tighten in. It may have worn or widen. My brother had a minivan that kept wearing ball joints. Mechanic replace wheel mount assembly. Problem solved.

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skloon
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Post by skloon »

there is a little shoulder on the end link that fits tightly into the sway bar- if it is resting on the edge of the hole you tighten it up and then when the bar moves it loosens up- I usually attach to the bar first and the strut assembly second- a bike cone wrench helps hold the shaft as they are really thin

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Post by j-dawg »

I installed a jam nut when I did the end links on mine a couple of years ago. Haven't had issues with them backing off.
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Post by abscate »

You can also put an oversized fender washer on it and then bend an ear over to lock it up.
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Post by oragex »

Is it aftermarket? Brand? Not all parts are same quality and correct dimensioning. Same for the rest of the suspension.

jsloden
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Post by jsloden »

I put red threadlock on it. If it backs of now there's something seriously wrong. We'll wait and see. Thanks for all the advice guys.

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