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Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.
abscate wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:34 am
Evap is the only big one, cheap part but lots of labour to get to it. Worse if/when you have to repair the dash mounts.
Once you do the Evap, everything else is bolt on/ off and you don’t lose the car use during the work, unless it’s the compressor (needed for SERP belt)
Well, abscate, you're forgetting the silly hand contortion you have to accomplish to attach lines to the compressor... (My god that took hours... I can only imagine what it's like for you Turbo guys!!!)
I really should get up there and do this A/C job already. (I really think I need to pony up for a new compressor...)
Just recovered a good one from 1998 Parts car.
Harrys price of $30
NY sales tax $15
NYC Sales tax $12
QUeens Tax $8
Brother tax for being the less attractive one $50
Tax for dumping old cars on your parents $100
E Showell wrote: ↑Wed Oct 09, 2019 10:40 am
Best to do that A/C work before winter as you may need functioning A/C to clear the windows in damp cold weather.
Sigh... you're right. E. I'm pricing parts on Rockauto right now: Approx $150 for Four Seasons Evaporator and Drier and an APDI/PRO Condenser...
FCP is my go to because :1) they sponsor this site and 2) have lifetime replacement warranty. The latter is not likely to be so much of a factor with a/c hard parts (probably a job you'll only do once).
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
My vacuum leak was at one of the hard lines into the drier. Hadn't managed to get it seated all the way. Mechanic found it. I never would have.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
abscate wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:34 am
Evap is the only big one, cheap part but lots of labour to get to it. Worse if/when you have to repair the dash mounts.
Once you do the Evap, everything else is bolt on/ off and you don’t lose the car use during the work, unless it’s the compressor (needed for SERP belt)
Well, abscate, you're forgetting the silly hand contortion you have to accomplish to attach lines to the compressor... (My god that took hours... I can only imagine what it's like for you Turbo guys!!!)
I really should get up there and do this A/C job already. (I really think I need to pony up for a new compressor...)
I’ve found you can crack and tighten these with about 30 inches of extender over near the end of the motor.
Use a brand new sharp good quality tooL ( hex or Torx to fit), smack end with hammer 5x to seat , and crack the fastener. Installing is easier , just make sure that oring stays in place with an inspection mirror to confirm
abscate wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2019 11:34 am
Evap is the only big one, cheap part but lots of labour to get to it. Worse if/when you have to repair the dash mounts.
Once you do the Evap, everything else is bolt on/ off and you don’t lose the car use during the work, unless it’s the compressor (needed for SERP belt)
Well, abscate, you're forgetting the silly hand contortion you have to accomplish to attach lines to the compressor... (My god that took hours... I can only imagine what it's like for you Turbo guys!!!)
I really should get up there and do this A/C job already. (I really think I need to pony up for a new compressor...)
I’ve found you can crack and tighten these with about 30 inches of extender over near the end of the motor.
Use a brand new sharp good quality tooL ( hex or Torx to fit), smack end with hammer 5x to seat , and crack the fastener. Installing is easier , just make sure that oring stays in place with an inspection mirror to confirm
Yes, I found good quality torx bits are absolutely essential. I picked up a set of 1/4" Williams Torx sockets for the job.
Well, abscate, you're forgetting the silly hand contortion you have to accomplish to attach lines to the compressor... (My god that took hours... I can only imagine what it's like for you Turbo guys!!!)
Heres the pic of cracking the Compressor hard line bolts, these can be H6 or Torx, Ive found
Fresh new bit. Harbor Freight ok if it is new.
Long extensions
Clean out head with a pick. Use solvent if its greasy and full of crud. Get it clean!!
Put bit in, smack with 6 love taps with hammer, let weight of hammer head do the work, no Gorilla smacks
Out you come...
Attachments
Removing compressor bolts
Screen Shot 2020-05-15 at 8.32.42 AM.png (1.52 MiB) Viewed 118 times
(My god that took hours... I can only imagine what it's like for you Turbo guys!!!)
