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Broken checkstrap plate... first time I've heard of this

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Broken checkstrap plate... first time I've heard of this

Post by SonicAdventure »

The threaded plate that is tack welded into the door pillar on my 96 850 wagon has given way and fully detached. Looks like there has been a problem with it for awhile.

Removed the rubber boot, and disconnected the star bolt. The plate fell into the recess of the door pillar. I was able to raise it up with a magnet, run a string through the hole and tie it to the checkstrap and let it fall back into the recess. At least I know I can fish it up (maybe not out) when I need to.

Doesn't appear to be a rust issue, but more like a spot weld breaking away and deformed metal. The door opens and closes freely as the extended check strap arm just enters the void in the pillar. The problem is no checkstrap. Will need to be careful opening door on hills or windy days...

I see a potential to work around this by fabricating a bent plate and bolting it to the door pillar under the opening with self-tapping screws and attaching the checkstrap arm to it. However, it will not be as strong as the factory set up. I don't see how this could be fixed otherwise. While its not the end of the world, I'd like to do something about it. But not sure what to do next. Any ideas?
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Post by Sveedy »

Mine cracked and tore the metal pillar about a week ago. I don't see any good way of fixing it other than welding it in place. Fish the piece back up and hold it in place with a strong magnet. Then tack weld it in a couple of places before welding the crap out of it. Buy a can of touch up paint and your all good.
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Post by erikv11 »

This is a common problem unfortunately. People usually fix it by welding (remove the door and still must be careful with wiring) or by drilling out and reinforcing before it breaks all the way. Time to hit the search button.
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

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Post by Cookeh »

Mine went in the same fashion. I removed the door and then let me local welder at ait. He cut away the outer skin to expose inner, trimmed out bent piece and welded in new anchor point, then a new plate for the outer skin. I paid £50, which was cheaper than investing the time and money in my own welder. He took an hour and a half to do the job, most of which was spent giving and taking abuse. The actual time spent repairing the issue was around 30mins.


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Post by befarrer »

Mine was like that too, removed door, and welded back in place, mine was just cracked on 3 sides, so not fully detached. I think its caused by flinging the door open, the door stop is this rod, so if wind catches the door, or you fling the door open, all the stress is on this point.
98 V70 GLT AWD
05 VW Golf TDI
93 Mazda B2200 with 13B rotary engine swap

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