P80 Seized Rear Wiper Fix

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Cookeh
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Volvo Repair Database P80 Seized Rear Wiper Fix

Post by Cookeh »

I noticed recently, after my wiper died mid-travel, that this is quite a common occurence. I also noticed that beyond suggestions of blasting it with PB every now and again, I couldn't find any comprehensive fixes listed for the issue. I had some spare time on my hands today so I decided to investigate the issue, and so I present a DIY for a more long-term repair.

Symptoms:
Rear wiper stuttering, noticeably slower in its sweep, unable to park itself, ultimately not working.

Time:
Rear panel and wiper mechanism removal: 5 mins
Rear wiper mechanism disassembly: 15 mins
Rear wiper mechanism repair and reassembly: 10 mins
Rear panel reinstallation: 5mins

Tools:
Trim removal tools
13mm socket
10mm socket
Wire brush
Grease (Silicon and white-lithium, in my case.)
Tape (Self-amalgamating is the best option, due to water resistance)
Superglue

Process:
1: The first step is to remove the rear wiper arm, 1x 13mm nut and then gently pull the arm off. If your arm is seized and you do not own any pullers, channel pliers are a great budget option. Place one jaw on the backside of the arm, and the other jaw on the top of the exposed wiper spindle, then squeeze. With the wiper arm removed, open the boot and remove the hatch panel. There are a lot of guides for this, see Roberts as an example.

2: With the hatch panel removed, undo the 3x 10mm bolts securing the rear wiper mechanism to release it and remove from the car. There is a plastic sleeve that goes over the aluminium casting of the mechanism. Ensure this is removed too as it forms part of the repair.

3: Use your wire brush to clean up the corrosion on the aluminium casting surrounding the wiper spindle. This should expose a C-clip and washer, which are located on the spindle in a groove. Remove the C-clip and washer, putting safely to one side.
ImageCorrosion buildup
ImageSpindle C-clip
ImageSpindle washer

4: Flip the mechanism over, and undo the 10mm nut on the back of the motor output shaft, taking note of the orientation of the linkage arm. Put the nut and the washer located beneath it to one side, and undo the 3x 10mm bolts securing the motor to the aluminium casting. Place these bolts and their washes to one side, and let the motor drop away from the casting.
ImageLinkage orientation and motor bolts
ImageMotor removed

5: Using penetrating fluid of your choice, and lots of elbow grease, pull the linkage arm and attached spindle down away from the casting. Rotating the casting as you apply downward pressure will aid in removal. This is the most time consuming, and most challenging, part of the repair. Note, the more 'seized' your mechanism is the harder this will be. I'd advise doing this as early as possible once you start noticing symptoms, or perhaps even doing it preventatively.

6: Once linkage arm and spindle have been separated from the casting, you should see a buildup of corrosion on both the spindle and the inner bore of the casting. Clean these up however you please, I used scotchbrite, parts cleaner, and metal polish.

ImageCasting inner bore dirt
ImageSpindle dirt

7: Apply grease to the spindle and inner bore of the casting and mate the two again. If sufficiently cleaned up you should find they slide in with minimal pressure and the linkage is then able to rotate very freely. This is what you are looking for. I used white lithum grease here as it is water resistant and excellent in metal-to-metal environments. Place the washer and C-clip back to secure the spindle in the correct place.

ImageCleaned spindle
ImageRe-installed spindle and C-clip

8: Flip the mechanism and casting over, re-install the motor, and the secure the linkage arm to the output shaft with the washer and 10mm nut.

9: It's now time to turn your attention to the plastic sleeve that goes over the aluminium casting. Clean out any corrosion present in the sleeve, and if required superglue the sleeve back together. Apply self-amalgamating tape to the exterior of the sleeve to restore its structural integrity and water-resistivity.

ImagePlastic sleeve
ImageRepaired sleeve

10: Grease the inner bore of the plastic sleeve and slide over the casting. Grease here will reduce corrosion on the casting and help to prevent water ingress down between spindle and the casting bore. I use silicon grease due its water resistance, and ability to help swell the rubber o-rings in the window. The plastic sleeve has a cutout and the casting has a protrusion to help you orient it correctly.

11: Reinstall in the car, check operation before finalising the installation by relocating it in its place. Refit the hatch panel, and secure the wiper arm.

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erikv11  
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Post by erikv11 »

Fantasmagorical!
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

Marked for VRD inclusion. Thanks Alistair! I miss Aberystwyth and signs with no vowels on them...
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Cookeh
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Post by Cookeh »

abscate wrote: Wed Nov 25, 2020 4:03 am Marked for VRD inclusion. Thanks Alistair! I miss Aberystwyth and signs with no vowels on them...
Diolch, though for the record there are more vowels in Welsh than there are in English! Today I drove through Plwmp, then I passed the local ysbyty on my through Cwmtydu and Dyffryn, to reach Mwnt in order to walk the dog (a corgi, of course!).

I should have added that its probably a wise idea to replace the washer beneath the circlip, as its only a mild steel example. Mine was particularly crusty, so I had to fab a new washer down using a bench grinder. I'll check dimensions of the washer later and add to this thread.

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