I bought the car with 55K in 07' We had the drive shaft assembly replaced at 75K. in the last month there is a whining noise the occours at 39-44 mph only. The shop We go to scaned it with a Volvo computer gave us at trouble code, "TCM-002F LOCKUP FUNCTION. SLIPPING NOT ENGAGED." He said we need to take it to the dealer. The dealer tells us they need to remove the drive shaft to diagnose the noise and they didn't get a trouble code. Something is wrong, why would my shop tell me to go to the dealer with the code at no charge? There a 3rd party extended warrenty that might cover thisbut we were denied on the drive shaft cliam last year.
I got a copy of the work order. Says, "Removed drive shaft and noise goes away, installed back drive shaft and noise comes back need DEM unit 0025 plus 0025 to remove and check total 0050 I found out need to reload control unit with new active on demand coupling extra 0010"
Parts,$4936
Labor, $750
How can you hear a noise with the drive shaft removed?
Is there a drive train diagram of this area I can get for reference, I work well wth plans. I am a contractor.
What does the woork order refering to?
Thank you in advance, this whole thing smells and I would like to verify what I am smelling.
XC90 2004 T6 drive shaft or transfer case?
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
AWD Volvo Whining Noise
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vegasjetskier
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Is your car 4-wheel drive?
If they remove the driveshaft and the noise goes away, that probably means the driveshaft is making the noise. Driveshaft in = noise, driveshaft out = no noise, driveshaft is probably making the noise.
But the lockup probably refers to the torque converter or the limited slip differential.
Did you have the noise before the driveshaft was changed the first time? Did it go away with the new driveshaft?
A couple other things that can make a whining noise are the tires and bad wheel hubs (bearings).
If they remove the driveshaft and the noise goes away, that probably means the driveshaft is making the noise. Driveshaft in = noise, driveshaft out = no noise, driveshaft is probably making the noise.
But the lockup probably refers to the torque converter or the limited slip differential.
Did you have the noise before the driveshaft was changed the first time? Did it go away with the new driveshaft?
A couple other things that can make a whining noise are the tires and bad wheel hubs (bearings).
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It is AWD, is this same?
Others have mentioned the rear differential and then also the transfer case as a possibility.
This is the problem, I don’t know the difference between these parts and how they all from the system. A diagram sure would help.
Torque converter or the limited slip differential sounds like a clutch.
Is this part of the transfer case?
The noise is new and was not like anything we have heard before.
What parts make up the drive shaft assembly? I so want to put together this picture together.
I am so lost and annoyed that I don’t get it. Thanks for the answers.
Others have mentioned the rear differential and then also the transfer case as a possibility.
This is the problem, I don’t know the difference between these parts and how they all from the system. A diagram sure would help.
Torque converter or the limited slip differential sounds like a clutch.
Is this part of the transfer case?
The noise is new and was not like anything we have heard before.
What parts make up the drive shaft assembly? I so want to put together this picture together.
I am so lost and annoyed that I don’t get it. Thanks for the answers.
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vegasjetskier
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Yes, AWD (All Wheel Drive) is the same as 4-wheel drive. There is a "transfer case" that takes the power from the transmission (which is connected to the engine and also drives the front wheels through driveshafts that have CV joints) and sends it to the rear differential via a driveshaft. If this front-to-back driveshaft is what was removed to make the noise go away (that would be my guess), then it could be the driveshaft itself making the whining noise or some item beyond that. It sounds like the shop determined that the rear differential is bad and wants to install a new one to the tune of about $5K.
The torque converter is in the transmission and usually has a "lockup" function to reduce fuel consumption.
A "limited slip differential" prevents one wheel from spinning a lot faster than the other when it loses traction by directing power to the other wheel. This improves the overall traction of the vehicle and helps it do better off-road or on slippery surfaces. Without it, the spinning wheel would just speed up and all the power would be directed to it instead of pushing the vehicle forward.
The torque converter is in the transmission and usually has a "lockup" function to reduce fuel consumption.
A "limited slip differential" prevents one wheel from spinning a lot faster than the other when it loses traction by directing power to the other wheel. This improves the overall traction of the vehicle and helps it do better off-road or on slippery surfaces. Without it, the spinning wheel would just speed up and all the power would be directed to it instead of pushing the vehicle forward.
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Great explanation, that answered a lot of the questions. I will get an update out after I get with dealer and get the parts list. I read in this same forum about some one that said Volvo paid for the parts, i will try that suggestion. Is there an update on the Volvo recall on this system? It was also mentioned. Thank you!!!
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vegasjetskier
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Here's an explanation of 4-wheel drive with some nice diagrams. One thing that is different about your car is that the engine is transversely mounted (runs crosswise to the car), as opposed to the longitudinally mounted engine shown in the diagrams.
http://www.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm
http://www.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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OEMVolvoParts
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Parts,$4936
Labor, $750
That is extremely high for a parts quote. Seems they are quoting the entire rear end as a fix? If they diagnosed the driveline as making the noise I'm not sure how the rear end fits into this problem. An entire driveline would retail for $1159.67 so how do they get to $4936.00?
The rear tires are controlled by the DEM (differential electronic module) which has quite a few issues itself. If the DEM is not working correctly, your car is now a 2wd, the rear tires will not engage. Maybe they mis-diagnosed the entire rear end as a problem at the same time they diagnosed the driveline.
Depending on where you live and how close another dealer is, I would go for a second opinion. Not all dealers are created equal. I'm pretty confused myself as to what they are replacing/reparing so try to get a better explanation what is in the $4,936.00.
Labor, $750
That is extremely high for a parts quote. Seems they are quoting the entire rear end as a fix? If they diagnosed the driveline as making the noise I'm not sure how the rear end fits into this problem. An entire driveline would retail for $1159.67 so how do they get to $4936.00?
The rear tires are controlled by the DEM (differential electronic module) which has quite a few issues itself. If the DEM is not working correctly, your car is now a 2wd, the rear tires will not engage. Maybe they mis-diagnosed the entire rear end as a problem at the same time they diagnosed the driveline.
Depending on where you live and how close another dealer is, I would go for a second opinion. Not all dealers are created equal. I'm pretty confused myself as to what they are replacing/reparing so try to get a better explanation what is in the $4,936.00.
Just hitting 50K miles and I did as I said over a year ago. I changed the tranie fluid every other oil change 10K miles that would be every 5k miles I change my oil. Haven’t had any problems with the trans yet.
I did have one problem that my friend resolved and I think everyone should know about this. It had a noise when accelerating when cold, it sounded like someone tapping a pan under the car. My friend found the problem to be the rear output CV shaft was lacking grease 1st from the factory and probably the grease was cooked or dried out due to its location just above the exhaust pipe.
His resolution was to disassemble the CV joint while still leaving the exhaust in place clean it with a rag, flush it with brake clean and repack it with grease. This PM was performed at about 30k miles and I don’t hear a sound from it. What a cheap fix apposed to the dealer’s solution of replacing the output shaft part was 800.00 us + labor?
My Old Post
November 13th, 2009, 6:42 pm
I did have one problem that my friend resolved and I think everyone should know about this. It had a noise when accelerating when cold, it sounded like someone tapping a pan under the car. My friend found the problem to be the rear output CV shaft was lacking grease 1st from the factory and probably the grease was cooked or dried out due to its location just above the exhaust pipe.
His resolution was to disassemble the CV joint while still leaving the exhaust in place clean it with a rag, flush it with brake clean and repack it with grease. This PM was performed at about 30k miles and I don’t hear a sound from it. What a cheap fix apposed to the dealer’s solution of replacing the output shaft part was 800.00 us + labor?
My Old Post
November 13th, 2009, 6:42 pm
Thanks ALL for the warning and all the info!
I have 28K miles on my XC90 and I am going to try to change my Trany fluid ever 2nd oil change to see if this helps the problem. I changed it @ 25k and will install a drain plug in the pan on my next 5k oil change so I can flush it out or should I say drain whats in the pan. I will do this every other Oil change 10K.
I realy like this car and I want it to last.
If any one thinks this is crazy please let me know but Trany fluid is cheap insurance to me.
I know this forum is about the Trany but I also have had problems with the NAV system blacking out every so often and the same with the radio also I had to change the right wheel bearing @ 19K and that is another concern?
At the present Im changing the front and rear pads due to a noisy right rear noise that is realy loud and scratchy only to find out that the EM brake is the issue and a friend told me not to mess with it because it is a total pane to repair so he said he will help me when I get all the parts.
I will try to keep all up to date but as we know we are all busy.
Last edited by matthew1 on 26 Feb 2011, 08:28, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Edited for clarity.
Reason: Edited for clarity.
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Murf, very interesting, thanks for posting. This is exactly what MVS Member and Contributor Jimmy said just weeks ago about maintaining your Volvo's AWD system: repack the joints.
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