VIDA resets after Tranny swap.

[PoppySheaf]

The donor tranny (indentical to mine) is not gm like a t6 but Japanese being an Aw tf 80sc. As I mentioned there’s no tcm on the donor so I’m using my existing.

[SuperHerman]

It doesn't matter what transmission you have - you should do a reset of the adaptations in VIDA.

By way of analogy: Your TCM has been talking for many years and many miles with your transmission. They have their own "slang" so to speak. The fuzzy logic program has adapted to your environment and driving style, the TCM has learned your transmission solenoids' behavior and needs.

You are now going to put in another transmission, which understands the language, but doesn't really understand the "slang". Yes, after sometime the two will learn to communicate, but in the interim performance will not be optimal and some unneeded damage could occur.

For example, your transmission has an issue right now, the TCM has been talking to it and trying to correct the issue as best it can within its parameters. This has become normal for them both. Now you will put in a new transmission and it will be told incorrectly how to behave - this could cause damage.

As far as I know, all XC90s from 2003-2015, have the adaptations in the TCM. Resetting the adaptations and running through the required drive cycle will let your TCM and transmission speak the same "slang". After more miles, your fuzzy logic program will relearn your driving style and environment.

In addition, just changing the transmission fluid, muddles the "slang".

[PoppySheaf]

I was speaking with someone else who thought I had a t6 and was advising against the reset

[Justtellme]

Sounds good!
I have very similar symptoms....just started last week.though my manual shift seems fine and it only starts to happen when fully warmed up. Mine is a 2010 3.2L with 210k km with much highway miles.( brought it with me for three years in Europe running the Autobahns and autostradas)

I was unable to find much on this topic unlike yourself, though some references to V8s and torque convertors.... though there does seem to be a number of people who indicate it may actually be ignition related/ misfire and have solved with spark plug, MAF or coil changes. IPD indicated this is a very good transmission with few transmission changes noted being needed in their area of the west coast.

Did your transmision shop suggest trying a new valve body or piston kit? Just wondering if the full transmission swap is the necessary first step......or are these bandaids and diminishing returns and a waste of money because none will work and you will end up replacing it in the end?
Does anyone actually know what is failing in these transmissions and causing the 3-4 gear flutter? ....Bands, pistons, O rings, friction liners, valves/ valve bodies, torque convertor only.......etc....... i note volvo sells the valve body and a piston kit separately.

Standing by to see if this works out for you....as Im not looking forward to having to do it...though I am now trolling for low mileage transmissions based upon your post!

( and i have some experience as well...dropping Supra W54 manual trans in my XJS V12, complete rebuild of a 95 B230FT+M90 in my 91 Coupe and Im half way through a rebuild on my 1942 GPW.....I dont need any more heavy metal slinging if I can avoid it.....

Patrick

The shuddering was all the time once it warmed up. Worse uphill. Symptoms in the manual mode. Did not flush as Volvo mechanic said the fluid was clean. Watched the net for a couple of months and found one from a volvonation in Colorado for 500 with 87k miles on it. I’m taking a week off from work as I have lots of accumulated paid vacation working for the city. I have several photos earlier in this thread. While this is my first Volvo, I’ve changed a lot of trannys in my life the last one a couple of years ago. It was a big, heavy CVT in my wife’s Outback. Before that one of my daughters after her boyfriend put oil in the transmission. It had a subframe and axles to remove and I had to use a engine support bar like I’ll have to do on the xc90. Wish me luck and thanks for the advice from the other post regarding adaptation procedures.

[PoppySheaf]

My shop said a new valve body is $1000 to buy which I confirmed and s complete rebuild $3000.

[PoppySheaf]

I plan on providing photos and some video as I go along.

[Justtellme]

My shop said a new valve body is $1000 to buy which I confirmed and s complete rebuild $3000.

Yes, that sounds about right.
A genuine Volvo reconditioned factory transmission around here is $3880 CDN ($2800USD)+tax ( I think this is exchange)
A genuine Volvo valve body is $1500 CDN or about $1150USD ( I assume this is new?)+tax

So a lower mileage used transmission is your best bet if you do not care about labour and are hoping to solve it in one go.( since you are doing this yourself)

Please take lots of pictures of your steps! Ive not been able to find any videos or picture albums of people actually executing this at home( did see one photo album online by a guy in British Columbia who swapped a trans out of a mid 2000 xc70 where he supported the engine above with some sketchy looking stacked log arrangement! LOL)

My Vida laptop and DiCE are arriving here on Tuesday according to the USPS tracker.....so Ive got a bunch of more research to do.

Looking forward to following your posts
Cheers

[PoppySheaf]

Will do! Nice chatting with you and stay tuned!

[SuperHerman]

I pulled up VIDA for valve body work on your model. Not as easy as the 2.5T, but easier than the 2.9T. Basically the bulk of the work is removing the subframe. After that, per VIDA, it is just remove the valve body cover and do what is needed.

I did some poking around and see solenoid issues and torque converter issues with the TF-80SC. I have not come across issues with clutch packs or hard parts failing. If the fluid is clean there is a good chance the clutches are in good shape and not the problem.

Per Wiki, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC#Applications, the transmission is used in many cars. It would be worth cross referencing those cars, looking for similar problems, to try and nail down exactly what is going on failure wise.

Most dealers don't fix transmissions. They will want to replace the entire unit even if a $30 solenoid is bad, or in the case of my former Audi A8, a $5.00 o-ring. Some will swap out the entire valve body for the same solenoid. Safer and they make more money. On the other hand, a quality transmission shop, will actually try and replace the failed parts and anything else that is on the way if it makes sense.

So justtellme, I would do some more digging on the transmission issues on other cars that use it and make some calls to see if you can narrow your problem down to a specific part. Sometimes it is not possible, but if you are going to do the work it is well worth it. Start looking at cars with the same transmission that are produced in large numbers.

Poppysheaf - reading through the posts oragex appears to be under the impression you are going to reuse your valve body. I would not reuse your valve body as that may be your problem. Not trying to start a fight, he may have misunderstood, but if your issue is a bad valve body and not the transmission, you are in the same situation you began with.

Circling back to adaptations, if one uses the original valve body on a different transmission this will cause problems. The solenoids have adjusted their patterns to adjust for clutch pack wear. Unless the wear is exact between the two transmissions, the transmission will either slam or soft shift until it relearns what is required. Best off running the adaptation process. I experienced this on my XC70 while I went through the shift points. Once they were learned, all was well, and got better the more I drove it. If you don't do it this way, it could be 2-4 weeks of improper shifting until the program sorts it all out.

[SuperHerman]

Found this: https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10176/v ... ion-issues

also this TransGo kit: http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat ... uct_id=269