120K 3.2 R transmission fluid change?

[ylwgto]

Wondering if i should change the transmission fluid on my 2009 3.2 R with 120K.

It was a single owner car before I bought it with full service documentation for every scheduled maintenance period. I know Volvo says to never change the transmission fluid (unless you tow). The service records do say that the "transaxle fluid was checked" and the "bevel gear inspected" at both 60K and 120K, but I assume this is related to the transfer case, not the transmission.

I've lost 2 prior Volvos to transmission issues, once because I waited to long ('03 XC70, 75K) and another time because i did the drain/fill and the transmission hated it (04 XC90 2.5 with 200K).

Currently the car is shifting fine (gets a bit confused in traffic sometimes with gear selection) and it's a great car I plan to have for a while. Do I let it be or get proactive? Curious about opinions.

[pgill]

I changed my S80 3.2 transmission fluid when I bought it.

Note: only about half of the fluid can be changed unless you disassemble the transmission (the other half is trapped in the transmission and torque converter)

And I will be changing half every year for the 10 years I plan to keep my S80.

I bought the S80 about two years ago and I've changed the fluid 3 times and it shifts like new.

If you want to see the complete history of what I did for my S80 3.2 since I bought it take a look at this link

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=87687

The XC90 3.2 will need essentially the same items (if they have not already been replaced)

Good luck

Paul

[Oro]

You should change it, and you should change it all out. That's fairly easy to do via the hard cooler lines where they attach to the radiator. Pop one off, pump out 3 qts. Add 3 qts. Repeat two or three more times.

After establishing a baseline of clean fluid, do a partial swap (drain/fill 3qts) every 25 to 30k. This is a "best practices" routine that will prevent fluid-related failures. Your 04 did not die from a fluid change, unless it was not done correctly. Your 03 likely died of the transmission design flaws the early ones had and not because of the fluid.

[ZionXIX]

^^^^ this is exactly what I did. Lessons to learn from me. Get a funnel with a flexible attachment. My funnel popped out and I poured 2 quarts of fluid out onto the driveway before I realized my mistake. Also my 05 2.5T had black fluid at 83k miles and supposedly 1 owner. It never had shifting problems before or after the change. Low mileage doesn't alway guarantee good fluid. I still prefer to complete fluid exchange method through the upper radiator outlet.

[ylwgto]

You should change it, and you should change it all out. That's fairly easy to do via the hard cooler lines where they attach to the radiator. Pop one off, pump out 3 qts. Add 3 qts. Repeat two or three more times.

After establishing a baseline of clean fluid, do a partial swap (drain/fill 3qts) every 25 to 30k. This is a "best practices" routine that will prevent fluid-related failures. Your 04 did not die from a fluid change, unless it was not done correctly. Your 03 likely died of the transmission design flaws the early ones had and not because of the fluid.

Thanks. Yeah, went through 2 valve body changes/rebuilds on the 03 costing over 6K...what a waste. Definitely a bad design on that transmission.

Can you point me to a comprehensive resource for the cooler line method? Also, I've read the 3.2s use different ATF depending on chassis number, but do not know the details. How can I know which ATF to use?

Thanks!

[ylwgto]

So I found this:

http://www.timthurber.com/volvo-xc90-3- ... c-6-speed/

Seems to be pretty comprehensive and states the 3309 ATF is what to use for the 6 speed transmissions behind the 3.2. Anything in this different for a '09 XC90 3.2 R?

In terms of procedure, this is no issue for me. But I do have 2 concerns

1. my car has 121K. Is a full flush the right approach or is a gradual drain/fill over months a better approach?
2. related to above, I do not have VIDA/DICE and therefore cannot A. do a fluid calibration for correct level (can probably get close with the drain at temp method) and B. reset the transmission fluid counter, which appears to be pretty important when a full flush is done?

I'm mostly concerned with not being able to reset the counter.
Thoughts?

[SuperHerman]

I have not owned nor serviced that year of AW transmission. The post you linked seems to show it is the same as the earlier AW Volvo models.

If it is like the other AW transmissions in Volvo form - just do a drain and fill and circle back in 10k miles and do another. After that do a drain and fill every 30k or so. I wouldn't bother with the hose - then again if the fluid comes out and looks just awful that is another story. Even so, a drain and fill will only help, so you can worry about the hose later if you wish.

Fluid calibration, if the temp method works that will be just fine. Transmission fluid counter, for earlier AW Volvo transmissions, was to monitor how many high temp occurrences the fluid was subjected to during the interval. If I recall - if three events happened an error code would be thrown. Extreme heat, like in towing, causes the transmission fluid to get hotter than normal which shortens its life. So, don't worry about it. If it codes you know why and can get the counter reset and fluid drain and filled at that time.

You don't mention resetting the adaptations, not sure if your year and model has that feature. I would not worry about it, the transmission computer will figure it out over a few hundred miles.

[ylwgto]

Thanks SuperHerman.

How much fluid is generally replaced in a dran/fill for the 3.2 tranny? And is the 3309 fluid the right stuff?
I assume you just drain some out of the tranny case (by removing the big plug) and replace the same exact amount through the fill hole up top?

The car has never towed and looks to have been babied with highway miles, so I think the fluid has never been stressed too hard.

Good point about the adaptations. I hadn't thought of that yet. The transmission does get a bit "lost" between gears sometimes in stop and go traffic. Is that a function of old fluid or more of an adaptations thing? Would an adaptation reset and retraining fix that? Otherwise I love the way the car shifts now, so not sure its totally worth it.

[pgill]

You don't mention resetting the adaptations, not sure if your year and model has that feature. I would not worry about it, the transmission computer will figure it out over a few hundred miles.

I agree with SuperHerman I don't reset the adaption on my S80 or LR2

As for the amount of fluid that will come out.

The most that have been able to remove is 3.7 Quarts but I was very patient to get this much out
(a more typical amount is closer to 3.4 quarts)

Here is the Objective Evidence



You are correct in your statement about refilling




1. Remove fill plug T55 (because it is insanely tight)

2. Remove T40 drain plug (some fluid will come out)

3. Remove 17 mm drain spout (a lot of fluid comes out)

4. Replace the 17 mm and T40

5. Fill the transmission (I just replace the amount that I remove)

6. Lift the vehicle up and make it level

7. Turn on the engine to warm up the transmission (shift between the gears pausing for 5 seconds between gears)

8. With the transmission warm and the engine running remove the T40 (if it drips slowly then the level is set)

9. replace the T40 (now you can turn off the engine)


Good luck

Paul

PS be careful with the T40 or we will need to talk about this

[ylwgto]

Awesome, just what i needed.

Question, #6...what do you mean lift the car and make it level? Can't all this be done while the car is on the ground? Or should the front be jacked up to get more drainage, then lowered for refill?

Thanks!