Confused on Setting the VVT in my '99 T6

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 05 Dec 2010, 08:48

Need some help setting this on my car, the old markings seem to contradict the instructions in VADIS.

VADIS wrote:Installing the timing gear pulley
Timing gear pulleys with variable valve timing unit
Slacken off, but do not remove the screws which secure the timing gear pulley to the variable valve timing unit.
Press the variable valve timing unit / timing gear onto the camshaft.
Install the centre screw which secures the variable valve timing unit to the camshaft. Do not tighten yet.
Position the upper timing cover.

Turn the timing gear pulley clockwise until the screws at the oval holes are in the limit position.
Continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking is 1 ½cogbefore the marking on the upper timing cover.
Check that the timing gear pulley is still in its limit position at the oval holes.

Tighten the centre screw for the variable valve timing (VVT) unit. Tighten to 120 Nm. Check that the variable valve timing unit does not rotate when tightening.
Install the centre plug. Tighten to 35 Nm.

To me, this means turn the "outside" wheel clockwise, ie the toothed part until its 1 1/2 cogs before the mark on the timing cover. The result of this however is that the bolts are on the left side of the oval holes, which is the complete opposite to where they were originally which you can see marked in white out. From the white out you can see the bolts were neither fully right nor left when i pulled it apart. For what its worth, I was throwing a VVT solenoid code before the job, maybe this was the issue?

Anyway, my question is: Should the bolts be on the left side of the holes (turn toothed part clockwise) or right (turn "inner" part clockwise"). The pic included in VADIS doesn't help in this regard.

jimgrames62 · Post by **jimgrames62** » 05 Dec 2010, 13:58

just like the pic shows. outside gear clockwise and inside gear counter to the oval stops then 1 1/2 teeth away from timing mark on top of cover.

hope this helps.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 05 Dec 2010, 14:09

jimgrames62 wrote:just like the pic shows. outside gear clockwise and inside gear counter to the oval stops then 1 1/2 teeth away from timing mark on top of cover.

hope this helps.

Thanks for posting. So that would leave the bolts on the left side of the oval holes correct? I'm having a real tough time getting this thing torqued to 88lbs.

So once I've locket the pulley 1.5 teeth before the notch, when it comes time to put the belt on I need to move it clockwise to the timing notch correct? When I do this is should it take up the "slack" in the VVT system, or should the camshaft move as I rotate the pulley to the notch?

jimgrames62 · Post by **jimgrames62** » 05 Dec 2010, 14:24

So that would leave the bolts on the left side of the oval holes correct? - SORRY! YOU ARE RIGHT! BOLTS TO THE LEFT! -

So once I've locket the pulley 1.5 teeth before the notch, when it comes time to put the belt on I need to move it clockwise to the timing notch correct? - Not sure about this? I don't know about the rest of the installation procedure?

When I do this is should it take up the "slack" in the VVT system, or should the camshaft move as I rotate the pulley to the notch? - Again not sure without having the rest of the procedure?

jimgrames62 · Post by **jimgrames62** » 05 Dec 2010, 14:42

boosted5cyl wrote:I'm having a real tough time getting this thing torqued to 88lbs.

[/quote]

I noticed the 3 holes in the inter cam gear. Is there possible a hole in the head so you can insert a punch or philips screw driver to hold the gear?

Post by **JDS60R** » 05 Dec 2010, 15:01

Cams have to be locked on the other end. make a holder out of 1/4 angle iron like this. This one has done a few and it does not bend. We tried it at much higher than the spec and it still won't bend.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 05 Dec 2010, 17:22

Yeah I had the cams locked at the rear. I ended up bending a couple of bits of steel while tightening the center bolt on the exhaust VVT unit (88.5 ft\lbs). So, after reading a couple of other areas in VADIS that pertained to the VVT setup I "think" I figured it out. The process is documented differently for the same part for the "installing\checking VVT" topic for example. From what I can tell, it boils down to this...

* Cam must locked in position, parallel with seam in head.
* VVT should be fully "advanced". This means inner part of the pulley (as opposed the center bolt, but the "shiny part") is turned clockwise until it stops turning (around 2teeth). Easy way to do this is hold the center bolt steady and with the three outer screws still tight put the old timing belt on the pulley and turn it clockwise. It will move a little then you will feel it stop.
* At this point with the cam locked and the VVT advanced, position the outer part of the pulley (geared part) so that the timing marks line up on the pulley and the top cover. You may have to loosen the three screws to get it to line up. Keep a close eye on the VVT so that is does not move.

I'll probably know later tonight if I'm right about this, but this is basically what I ended up doing. I have the belt on, did two full crank turns with no nasty feelings or noises and the marks line up good.

Post by **JDS60R** » 05 Dec 2010, 18:56

You got it.

I do it this way
Lock cams
Loosen outer pulley 3 bolts
Turn outer pulley clockwise to limit position while holding center.(pulley bolts are fully left)
Lightly lock down 3 pulley bolts.
Put center bolt in but do not tighten
Turn outer pulley one turn (clockwise) until outer pulley mark is 1.5 teeth before mark (still in left side limit position)
Tighten center bolt to spec without moving 1.5 tooth relationship of outer (just hold inner pulley while tightening -very easy)
install center plug with o ring -tighten to spec
hold inner turned fully clockwise so it does not move. (marks move past timing mark on cam cover)
loosen 3 outer pulley bolts and align marks. (turn pulley back ,while holding inner, to align pulley mark with cam cover)
Tighten 3 pulley bolts to spec
Unlock cams
Reassemble
Check timing marks through several hand revolutions of motor
Remember to go past timing marks by 90 degrees rotation (at cams or 180 degrees at the crank)and then back to timing marks on all VVT motors ( once it has been pressurized/run). This aligns the marks properly. If this procedure is not done the timing marks on the VVT cams will be off a tooth or so. Do the procedure before removing the cam belt and after installing a new one to insure the marks are correct. Do not remove or alter the bolt settings of a VVT during a normal cam belt change.

(Edited to simplify process)

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 07 Dec 2010, 06:43

Uh oh. Started it up last night and it sounds rough as hell. I wonder if I put the exhaust cam in upside down? I cranked it for about 1 minute total before I put the fuses in to start it and it seemed fine, no tight spots that I noticed. However when I put the fuses in and tried to start it, it seemed to hit a couple of "tight" spots where the motor almost stopped cranking and the lights went off on the dash. The battery is fully charged, but it might be due for replacement anyway.

It threw a p0014 code for the VVT solenoid, but I had that before the job so I hope that the code for cam/crank timing code is different and im just dealing with some coil\injector issues.

Compression test tonight then. Ugggghhhhhhhhh this sucks.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 07 Dec 2010, 08:25

Am I right in thinking that I can check/reset the VVT unit by putting the marks at the notches, undo the three outer screws and rotate the unit fully clockwise using the (outer) center bolt?

I'm Also thinking that the exhaust cam being possibly 180degrees the wrong way still might not damage the valves. That might be the optimist in my though.