2. Conditions for obtaining the problem: In the process of job you are sitting on the "wrong way" or you left a sharp, edgy subject." In short interruption you caused a burning of the heater.
3. Possible solutions:
1. New seat (heater)
2. Repair of existing (option consideration)
4. Repair:
1. Disconnect the battery!
Wait 5 minutes after you've cut off the engine and then disconnect the negative terminal. Onlynegative. This is made because your car could save a error for the bombs (airbags
) if the seat is equipped with SIPS. (The backrest is equiped with airbag, which protects you in a side impact.)WARNING!
Before you remove the battery switch off the radio and open at least one window. Thus providing access to the inside of the car if something happens(locks).
In models S60, S80 XC ** etc. where the battery is in the trunk and the trunk is operated by an electric button to open - when you disconnect the battery it does not work and you can not open it anymore! For each case of the release lever at least one of the rear seats. Mind not to lock your luggage compartment with the kay inside and wonder how to get in to get it or to attach the battery. Of course VOLVO guys have thought about this and you could unlock the trunk with the key, but this can only be done with the key "# 1" (usually gray). It is the only one which unlocks the trunk and glove compartment. If you have lost it and use the reserves you will fall into a great adventure. And on the topic of the key: The difference between the two is in the middle groove. The backup one is triangular and in the first one is square. And both kindle with both doors open, but only with the first you can unlock the glove compartment and trunk.
2. Disconnect all cables under the seat and unscrew the 4 screws holding it to the car body.
3. Once the seat is free, according to the model of your car, it is possible the belt is attached to the seat. I will not give pictures and instructions for it's detachment, because of different seats.
4. You should now be able to remove the seat from the car and go to the appropriate place for easy disassemble the seat covers.
5. Few pictures of my seat. The car is 2000 S80, the seat is equipped with SIPS, electric adjustment with memory and heater, of course:
I show only bottom side because the texture of the upholstery of your seat may be different. It's not so important...
Orange jack is for the airbag - Do not play with it! If something happens and an airbag opens next to you, it can be deadly! (It is necessary to submit a +12 and -12 volts at 2 pins to happen)
Here is the module managing the heater:
And here are the jacks:
As you can see there are 3:
Green is for the seat (bottom part).
Gray behind it (with a small cables) - backrest
The other gray (3 cable: Yellow - control, Red and Black (thick) power supply)
Check jacks that lead to the heater with multimeter if the circuit is closed.
Note the following fact:
On the green socket there are 4 cables: Brown , 2 yellow and gray . Brown and gray are for the heater and yellow are for the temperature sensors. You should measure whether the circuit is closed between brown and gray cables.
If the circuit is not closed, you can proceed with removing the seat upholstery. For this purpose, the model and pattern of the seat may have metal rings and metal rods (tensioners) in the pits:
To remove the metal rings you may use 2 sets of pliers (with small pilers is more convenient) to reach. After the first 2-3 you will get used, don't worry
Even if you break a ring, don't worry - at the end you will have a few extra.That is the reason for dismantling (in my case):
As you can see there is a burning crack. Repair it with extension cable and soldering. Because the seat is soft and supple but the cable you will use is not, leave it longer. Here's what I mean:
It is assumed that we are ready. To avoid having to disassemble the seat again, repeat the above-described measurement with multimeter to make sure that everything is fine and there are no other "hidden" breaks.
I mentioned "hidden" breaks ... It's not necessarily the place where the heater is broken that is burnt and easily viewable. If so you can wrap around the needle "tentacles" of the multimeter and poke them through the fabric. Use the method "Guess which number I'm thinking for from 1 to 100." You say 50 - up - 75 -down - 63 etc. until you find the place.
It's time to assemble the seat. Idea: Where the metals tensioners are (or whatever they are calling) instead of the metal rings you can use hmm... these cable ties (in Bulgaria we call it "pig tails"). It's easier this way and it's tested for 2 years - my S40 seat is still fine.
In my case there are metal rings on the edge of the seat. There I put them back again. Apparently there you really need a tight grip, and ... it is comfortable enough to put them with ease
I usually give a picture of the done product, but in this case the only picture i could make is self photo how happy i am while the seat is heating my a**. I'm gonna save this pictre for myself
5. Tools Required:
1. 2 sets of pliers. Small as possible
2. Soldering iron and supplies and some cable.
3. Star key number 50 or 55 depending on model car (for removing the seat from the floor and seat belt) Yours could be fitted with normal bolts.
4. Straight screwdriver - to support here and there
5. Wrenches for disconnecting the (-) battery terminal. Dimensions - depending on model and vehicle type terminal in most cases it's 10mm.
6. Wrenches for disconnecting the seat itself. Dimensions - depending on model of you vehicle. In my case it was 14mm.
That's it. GOOD LUCK.
A year later...
Seat refused to heat again. My first thought was "Damn, my repair was ineffective!?! I knew welding is not the right way to do it."
On the day i found the problem, after work I park the car and got home with the seat in hands (why the hell it's so heavy)
Anyway, we are already "friends" with seat designers working for VOLVO (I've disassembled and then assembled seats from 4XX, S/V40 and S80) so my seat was open for less than 3-4 minutes and what I saw:
It seems that my repair last year passed the test and this time the problem is on the other side. Fortunately, after this repair now I know that repairing the heater this way there is no longer any points of conflict:) Now with a clear conscience I can explain in detail how to make the connection between the heater and multicore cable ...
We start with a very gentle cutting of the fabric so we got some non burned heater part:
Take some multicore cable with section approximately 0.7-0.8mm (it is nice to be with silicone insulation, but its not fatal if you havent, see mine is not):
Entangling them as shown: (some guys working with high voltage taught me to this method of splicing wires of different types)
Prepare for welding:
Because the heater wire is trying to go away I "get some help" from a money clip:
I put a thick paper underneath (120 grams was in hand) because welding is not my strength and I wanted to protect the seat from myself
The main welding process:
We are ready, it's time for isolation. During the first repair I was unprepared, but now I had some of this heat shrink insulation.
Repeat the "exercise" on the other side
:
Put the cables in a way so there coudn't be any stress even if you get hot with a girl in the car
:
Put some tape - the idea of the tape is to keep the cables in position while you attach the cover of the seat, nothing more.
Check that all the wiring is OK with our repair. The idea is to ensure the circuit on both ends of the heater is closed. If everything is OK multimeter will tell you "good boy, nice job" haha
That's it folks.
GOOD LUCK
p.p. This post was originaly posted by me in Volvo Club Bulgaria's forum, and can be found in Bulgarian here
p.p.2. Sorry for my English ... i'll be happy if a moderator make a spell and grammatic correction - thanks.
