1999 S80 T6 engine stalling, rough idle, power loss

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on the Volvo S80 model. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was and continues to be Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car.
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Posts: 144
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2016 2:11 pm
Year and Model: 2001 S80 T6
Location: Evanston,IL

Re: 1999 S80 T6 engine stalling, rough idle, power loss

Post by Legofan »

You have a couple options depending on your technical abilities.

You can send yours in for repair and programming
http://xemodex.com/us/electronic-thrott ... -services/

This seems pretty successful if you're good at electronics.

One of many sites that sell it, http://www.ardideas.com/ETM-repair-kit-_p_174.html

Some other good info:

1. ETM Installed backwards- Yes, it is possible to install the unit with a label facing the engine.

Symptoms: Rough idle, engine will not rev up past 2500 RPM.

Corrective action: ETM must be installed with the label facing the radiator.

2. The old ETM gasket not removed and left stuck to the intake manifold.

Symptoms: Irregular idle, misfire on acceleration. Possible MAF and ETM related DTC stored.

Corrective action: Our units are shipped with a new gasket; ensure that the old gasket is removed.

3. Disturbance to the Turbo Pressure Sensor (One of the two or three sensors located on the intake pipe).

Symptoms: (as described by one of the customers): A- When applying full throttle, around 3800 to 5000 RPMS the engine gains RPMS with difficulty and runs rough and never gets to 6000 RPM that is were the automatic transmission changes to the next gear, it just reaches slightly above 5000 RPM, the engine is definitely not giving full power and this is very noticeable in the higher end.
B- Several times during this period the engine does not start when hot or is difficult to start, it will idle for a few seconds and then stop, many times if you do not immediately accelerate after starting the engine it will stop and will not start again for about 15 to 20 minutes of "rest" time. This problem does not happen when the engine is cold.
When this happens the engine does not respond to the throttle pedal.
After it cools it will start normal again. Most of the time the engine starts OK but makes a "cough" after starting, this is less noticeable if you immediately accelerate but still does it.
C- When applying full throttle in "P" the engine reaches the 4000 RPM (were it normally cuts off) with no difficulty and no problems at all, but this is with no load to the engine.
D- The engine idles between 650 and 800 RPM in "D" and brake applied, this variation happens with the A/C

Other symptoms include ETM internal failure codes and MAF and Turbo Sensor codes. It is also common for the Turbo Pressure Sensor to fail soon after the ETM installation, giving you a false sense that the ETM
is defective.

Corrective actions: Turbo Pressure Sensor is very sensitive. When removing the air intake pipe from the ETM due not disconnect any sensors. Instead leave them connected and swing the pipe out of the way to
gain access to the ETM mounting bolts. When you experience the above, replace the Turbo Pressure Sensor.

4. Air intake pipe not installed correctly around the ETM. (Looks good from the front, but the rear of it is not inserted back all the way).

Symptoms: Irregular idle, misfire on acceleration. Possible MAF and ETM related DTC are stored. Sometimes will not accelerate at all and backfire.

Corrective action: When re-installing the air intake pipe, use your fingers to “feel” that the pipe’s plastic collar is above the clamp and that it is inserted all the way around the ETM.

Tips and hints:

We strongly recommend that you consult a professional mechanic prior to sending your ETM to us for rebuild. Many ETM like failure symptoms could “fool” you it to believing that the ETM at fault.

After installing our ETM back on your vehicle upon turning the ignition key on you should hear a loud, audible “click” from the ETM. This is an indication that the ETM is engaged and the power and ground supply
are present. If you don’t hear it click then you have a problem with the power or ground supply to the ETM. This is somewhat common on the 99-00 Volvo S80. Note that some ETM’S “click” louder than others, it’s
always a good idea to have someone else turn the ignition on for you while you listen for it.

Black smoke together with a rough idle are not caused by failed or failing ETM. These conditions are most likely to do with failing O2 sensors, MAF or high fuel pressure.
Last edited by Legofan on Sat Apr 22, 2017 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
2001 S80 T6 Moondust sent to auction for scrap

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Posts: 144
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2016 2:11 pm
Year and Model: 2001 S80 T6
Location: Evanston,IL

Post by Legofan »

filichino wrote: Sat Apr 22, 2017 11:37 am An idependent Volvo repair shop near me quoted $1,250 for a new throttle, software download​ and labor. I know I said before that Im not spending any more $ to fix this car but I'm willing to spend at least a few hundred dollars. Where can I find a ETM for that much Legofan? Thanks again for all the help.
Is still cheaper than buying a new car.
2001 S80 T6 Moondust sent to auction for scrap

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Post by 850TurboTurtle »

I just replaced the ETM on my 05 S80 and it cleared up all the running problems on the engine. (Mine uses the newer Bosch ETM.) Compared to other repairs it was quick and easy, partially because it didn't need reprogramming. But in your case I'd still try to replace the ETM before ditching the car if the rest of it is good.

Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 2:35 pm
Year and Model: 1999 S80 T6
Location: California

Post by filichino »

Just wanted to update this, it turns out my Xemodex ETM went bad. I sent it in for warranty diagnosis and testing. They determined that the "brain" is dead the unit was not properly "sweeping". Xemodex is sending me a replacement.

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