1999 Volvo S80; Oil Burning in Cylinders

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on the Volvo S80 model. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was and continues to be Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car.
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jacobcag
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Re: 1999 Volvo S80; Oil Burning in Cylinders

Post by jacobcag »

I just got done taking off the breather box, which I believe is the original since the plastic was so brittle it broke after I took the bolt out and pulled it away from the engine. I think you may have hit the nail on the head Rick, the two upper hoses were fairly clear but the lower one connecting to the crankcase was almost filled to the brim with gunk. Would this be enough for it to create pressure throughout the engine or would it need to be completely blocked off?

You can also see in the picture that there's a large oil leak coming from the crankcase seal, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that from the pressure building up inside the crankcase and having to go somewhere so it pushes out oil around the gasket?
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

Would this be enough for it to create pressure throughout the engine or would it need to be completely blocked off?

Restrictions will hamper ventilation and allow pressure buildup. Like when you place your finger over the end of a garden hose.

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that from the pressure building up inside the crankcase and having to go somewhere so it pushes out oil around the gasket?

It could, but don't get hung up on it now. If the gasket is not broken a bottle of ATP-205 Re-Seal does wonders on old seals. Get the PCV system rebuilt for now.

Have you decided what your going to do to the head?

You might want to think ahead as to what you going to do about sludge in the crankcase.
Last edited by RickHaleParker on Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

With a hose connection like that you're pretty much guaranteed a completely blocked canal down into the oil pan where it makes a 90 degree turn. You'll probably need to drop the pan to clean it out. You can test it by connecting a hose to it and blowing through listening for bubbling in the oil.

jacobcag
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Post by jacobcag »

Rick -- That indentation you saw was actually on the cam cover, I was thinking since I'm not trying to invest to much money into this that could heat it up just a bit then flatten it, sand it so its smooth, then rethread it with a tap and dye (I figured that they wouldn't do much more than that). Then make sure some I put some of the liquid sealant on it just to be safe. Would that be too risky or should I go to a machinist and have them do it?

Rattnelle -- Once I drop the crankcase, will I have to replace the gasket? Its something I've never done myself and am a little unfamiliar with.
Last edited by jacobcag on Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Rattnalle »

It's sealed with liquid gasket so you'll need to clean the surfaces and apply new gasket from a tube, yes. I haven't done it myself though.

Try the hose blowing trick first, see how it seems.

You can clean most of it using a smaller tube to stick down catching the dirt inside it but there's an elbow at the very bottom that's hard to get to that way. Stupid design IMHO.

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Post by RickHaleParker »

I was thinking since I'm not trying to invest to much money into this that could heat it up just a bit then flatten it

Do not heat it up, smooth it down with a file.

will I have to replace the gasket?

Always replace gaskets when you expose them. That way it will be a long time before they need serviced again. Also if they don't reseal good your need to do all the work of getting to them over again. The quickest way to get anything done is take the time to do it right the first time, that way you don't need to do it twice.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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Post by jacobcag »

Will do. Tomorrow I'll be taking off the crankcase to clean it out and checking to see which hoses need replacing before I go ordering parts. As for the liquid gasket, is that something I can buy from a local auto parts store or is it something I need to order online? I've done some researching and I'm not really seeing any obvious answers.

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Post by RickHaleParker »

As for the liquid gasket, is that something I can buy from a local auto parts store

Yes you can get some at a local Auto parts store. It is call a liquid gasket because it goes on as a gel.

Other names for a liquid gasket are Gasket maker and Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone (RTV silicone) they come in a squeeze tube. Read the labels and get one that is formulated to resist oil such as Permatex® Ultra Black®.

Make sure you get the mating surfaces clean, squeaky clean. As a final prep, I wash the mating surfaces with Acetone and let them dry before applying the liquid gasket.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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Post by SuperHerman »

Couple of thoughts. A head gasket kit should contain every seal that you will need on the top including cam seals. Price as a kit is not bad. Measure your head and block flatness. Your block should be flat - the head if in spec can be sanded by hand. Plenty of videos on it. Then you can redo the valve seals (should be in head gasket set) and clean the valves and lap the valve seats. Just work here nothing tricky. The shop I use charges about $80 to clean and plane the head - you can have this done and then do the valve work yourself. Otherwise ask how much turn key - doesn't hurt to ask and you can always say no.

Make sure to clean the block well - not just the head. Take your time and do not use a Scotch Brite. Razor blade real slow and wet sand with WD40 or related - make sure to keep you pistons mid stroke and keep cleaning so debris doesn't get to the rings. Spin the engine when you are all done and keep cleaning - keep it oiled up and keep cleaning.

Volvo heads use Anaerobic Sealant for the cam cover and oil pan. You can use RTV but I would not as it is messy and can clog passages. Anaerobic Sealant is much easier to work with and any excess that oozes out just gets washed away in the oil. The parts using this sealant are machined very flat and tight so RTV is not used by Volvo. Anaerobic Sealant dries with the absence of air - so excess washes away as it hasn't hardened. You can get this at NAPA or just order it with the rest of the parts. It is not too expensive and you will find future use for it.

If you drop the oil pan you should do the related oil o-rings - you can find "kits" for this. I recall it was not too difficult of a job. Not sure if I had to drop the sub-frame to get the clearance needed. If you do, it is not too hard, but you have to support the engine if I recall correctly . (Too many cars I cannot keep them straight) I did this same job on my 2004 2.9 NA. Nothing hard - just lots of things that have to come off. Still with the way your engine looks I would clean it well and drop the pan. No sense having an unseen clog ruing all of your work - or throwing a clot and plugging an oil galley. You are basically there - so do it all and be done with it. I bet your oil pan looks like a sludge pit.

I would do the entire PCV system with new parts. Hoses stick with Volvo - some of the off brands have had issues and fail rather quickly. You are there - everything is apart so I recommend shopping around and buying OEM stuff and doing it once. Also use the clamps that Volvo used - they are just better in the long run. You can also order these up at the same time. I have not had success with regular hose clamps.

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Post by RickHaleParker »

A head gasket kit should contain every seal that you will need on the top including cam seals.

Don't forget a new set of head bolts and torque wrenches.

make sure to keep you pistons mid stroke and keep cleaning so debris doesn't get to the rings.

Soak the rings in Sea Foam to loosen any carbon build up.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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