Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[jlferreira]

Mike, I already took both caps off and the plate, and deburr the shaft. Now I'm supposed to take the butterfly valve on the Sacer side right? I can feel that there is a resistance if i try to take the shaft through the motor side. Do you have any pictures or what would be the procedure to take the valve? It is not clear to me what I'm supposed to do now. Thanks one more time.

[precopster]

When you remove the 2 small butterfly valve screws there will be burrs on the opposite side of the shaft at the thread sites. I hope these are the burrs you deburred:lol: If the shaft isn't smooth as you pull it through the body you may scratch the throttle at the shaft seal site.

I usually hit the shaft through from the Sacer side with a small screwdriver and use a pair of pliers as a small hammer. Just tap tap tap and it will slowly crawl out.

[jlferreira]

Haha.. Yeah, these are the burrs I smoothed.
But when I try to take the shaft it seems to have a resistance on the sacer side. The black cover with a green spring behind it is the valve you were talking about, right? How should i take it off or i dont need to? Thanks, Mike.

[precopster]

Just bring out the brute in you. What can go wrong? ? The ETM is a waste of space anyhow right? Just hit and it will crawl out slowly.

[jlferreira]

Ok, so to take the shaft out I don't need to take the return spring, just hit the shaft towards the motor side cap and take it off?
Since I'm doing this whole procedure, I was thinking about taking the return spring also. Is it too difficult to get it out? Should I just take the throttle stop screw and remove the cap black cover with the spring?
Thank you, Mike.

[precopster]

I never remove throttle stops because they will need recalibrating. If you want to replace the bearing on that side that is a different story.

Also they are a giant PITA to pull the caps to reach the allen head. The black cover with spring can stay put. On over 100 repairs I only removed one because epoxy had dripped into it.

[AhhShark]

I have a couple questions. When measuring voltage. Do you have to keep un installing and 're installing the etm, hooking up battery and un hooking battery? Or is there an easier way to do it? If my car is surging, wont it throw the voltages back and forth making it impossible to tell the rigjt voltage? Can I just measure the voltage on the first ignition switch position? If thats the case i just have to plug the harness of the etm in and measure voltage with out hooking it all the way back up. Is measuring while idling the best? Im not trying to mess this part up as its the most important. Second whats the easiest way to solder the pins together? I feel like im going to mess up this part unless someone goes through step by step with me on how/where to put the flux. Where I should solder....etc.

[Norrlands guld]

Hello! I did the volt measure with the ignition switch at first position. I measured voltage at closed and wide open. I dont remember the numbers but I had to tune the magnet position on the saft serveras times to get the voltage as closed as possible to given numbers.

I tried to solder quick and then cool with plier to minimize the heat.

This is what I remember, sorry I can not give you any more details. Have you red this thread completely? I think there is a lot of help to be found in the beginning.

Good luck!
Peter

[precopster]

Just hook a 12V source to thick green (+12V) and thick brown gets the chassis or negative. Get some test leads from Radio Shack to hook things up.

Or just use ignition in Pos II to measure voltage and make sure the ETM has come to rest after self test.

If the ETM has unmatched firmware with your car's engine computer it won't come to rest and will continue to squeal indefinitely. In this case use the 12V battery independantly of the car.

With regard to.soldering I have begun to use Kester's white flux paste which is the best product to ensure adhesion.

Even without Kester's paste I always use a Dremel tool with a stone to remove the surface layer on both the sensor's contact and the ETM contact. The soldering iron should have about 40W rating.

[AhhShark]

I did everything today and completed. Im not getting a tps code anymore, but its still acting up a little bit. I'd say its 75% better than before. I do have a maf code still there and will try and replace with new because I know a bad maf and cause a little bit of surge. my cruise control hasn't came back and my "engine service" message hasn't went away either. I reset the codes but the message came back. The voltage difference was 1.44 (original) and 1.46 (sacer) is this enough to mess up the whole thing? Is my soldering the culprit? Will a maf make the "engine service urgent" message come up? Thanks for the quick reply guys!