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my 240 is killing alternators!!

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Failed Water Pump Causes Timing Belt Failure
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todds240

my 240 is killing alternators!!

Post by todds240 »

ok, here's a question for someone who knows a lot about the charging/electrical system of a 1986 240.
What would be causing the charging system to damage the alternator? I believe it's burning out the diode/s. I'm on my third alternator, the first two I replaced myself and then I decided to try my local volvo mechanic, and after a week or so after installing a third one, it doesn't charge anymore. Actually, what happens is that when I cold start it, it's charging, but after several minutes of driving, it quits, for the rest of the day and then the next morning, it'll charge temporarily again. I'm confused and my mechanic doesn't believe me and just wants to put another alternator in, the fourth one!! I hope someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks!
Todd

dpauto.com
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Location: Riverside, CA

Post by dpauto.com »

Make sure the ground at the alternator is good and tell your mechanic to do a voltage drop test (if he knows what that means) from the alternator to the battery.

Dave
ASE - VOLVO Master Technician

240lover
Posts: 1
Joined: 22 May 2003
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Location: Providence

Post by 240lover »

could I do the voltage drop test myself? If so, how?

dpauto.com
Posts: 131
Joined: 27 April 2003
Year and Model:
Location: Riverside, CA

Post by dpauto.com »

With a digital volt meter, you can first measure the charging voltage at the alternator. Then compare that voltage at the battery while the engine is running. Note the differences. If the differences is more than .5 of a volt, then you most likely have a voltage drop either on the positive or the negative side of the cables. That is when u need to do a voltage drop test.

To do a voltage drop test, you need to place the volt meter in series of the circuit, and that circuit has to be lived. For an example, if you want to find out how much voltage is being dropped from the alternator to the battery on the positve side, then you need to place the red lead of your volt meter at the alternator's charging post and the negative lead at the positive terminal at the battery. Whatever voltage that is being lost will show on your volt meter. You can do the same way on negative side. You can apply this method to any circuit at any time you think there is a voltage drop from a source to its component or components.

Dave
ASE - VOLVO Master Technician

Guest

Post by Guest »

thanks, I'll give this a try on sunday and see what I find.

salty44

Post by salty44 »

I have a '85 240GL, which gave me fits. After 3 alternators, each of which charged well when installed, and stopped charging after driving awhile, then start working again for some unkown reason. It turned out to be the crumbling wires in the harness. I replaced the 4 wires going from the firewall plug to the (Alt, oil pressure, temp, and starter selenoid). The problem was fixed. It has been 3 months. All 3 alternators are good, and the charging system is working properly.

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