Am I the only one with a 16 Valve 740? Questions...

Raleigh · Post by **Raleigh** » 01 Aug 2009, 22:53

Hi, I recently owned a 1994 850 N/A and thank you all for the advice - however it's been grounded and now gone. In it's place I acquired a 1989 740 GLE 16V (171k) in great shape for $500 and am excited to start learning and working on it. I've done TONS of research and MVS seems to have little, nay ZILCH, on 740 16V cars (B234f engine).

The first thing that needed work was the muffler/piping/resonator - I replaced it all stock since no one else on the 'net had any options, with a stock system from FCP Groten ($210 and great service). I'm about to replace some other odds and ends (cam seal, flame trap, rear door handle, all calipers and rotors), but I'm more interested in how to get more gut and speed out of my daily driver 740. I've researched modifying the air intake with a cone filter and heat shield for a couple-10 HP, but with the 16V engine everyone seems to discourage any other modifications. I understand the engine was an interference model with very touchy timing and pressure, but I'm looking for ANY advice or ideas on the matter. Even any reasons why I shouldn't modify the airbox - it seems 16V was a rare contraption, but a solid one, so I want to work with it... but not damage it. I've gotta get to work and funds are not unlimited.

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. If I get to the airbox mod and it works I will be sure to provide plans, pictures, and guide for anyone else who wants to try it!

FYI I'm an anxious and quick-learning novice with cars/Vovlos, be kind.

Post by **billofdurham** » 04 Aug 2009, 12:13

Am I the only one with a 16 Valve 740?

You are in a very small minority as the 16 valve 740 was only produced in 1989 and 1990 in the US and 1988 - 1990 in other markets. However, the same engine did appear in the 940 in 1991 and 1992. You may be able to find more info searching for the 940.

It is an interference engine so timing belt changes are critical at 50,000 mile intervals.

As for modifications a cone filter could possibly be of some benefit but the cost and work involved would probably not be worth the small improvement you may get.

I do have some workshop literature on the maintenance of the engine if you need help.

Bill.

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 06 Aug 2009, 13:52

I have only see 2 740 16v cars ever. I know they are out there but they very rare.

If you really want to make it fast, do a search on turbobricks.com about turbo charging a 16v B230F.

Raleigh · Post by **Raleigh** » 07 Aug 2009, 08:02

Yeah, you guys are right, I guess I'm just a little rare with the 16 Valve - too bad because it seems there are so many eccentricities particular to it. Even though it's rare elsewhere there are four people with my exact same car within about a five mile radius from my house.

I've read about the B230 conversions on Turbobricks.com, but I'd like to keep my B234f, especially since my level of experience is no where near being able to switch out engines/convert them. I would love to learn, but not while it's my daily driver.

Maybe I'll start collecting information for it myself and organizing it for others. Might as well DIY and contribute to the community! Thanks for the replies!

P.S. I'd also like to mention for anyone who reads this that may have a 16 Valve, FCP Groten is the ONLY website I've found that differentiates parts for the 16 Valve (thank you!), making it MUCH easier to get parts. Everywhere else I had to call just to get wishy-washy answers.

Tobugrynbak · Post by **Tobugrynbak** » 14 Aug 2009, 05:11

Job #1 Do the Timing belts! but you need to work out if you have a manual tensioner or an automatic tensioner. There are two different lengths of belts depending on which version B234F you have. The mention of manual or auto refers to which belt tensioner system you have not the transmission you have. With the manual tensioner system you have two rubber plugs on the timing belt cover, which gives access to the tensioner locking nut.
Irrespective of what you might have been told when you bought the car, give it a major service(plugs,filters,oils) and replace the timing belts.

Buy a workshop manual, I've only been able to find the Haynes ones available, there are manuals on CD but they're not worth a squirt of bird poop IMHO.

Do a bit of lurking on the net, here is a place to go for information on the B234F motor timing belts.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/B234Ftimingbelts.htm

The only real difference between the "Cammer" B234F fitted 740 and one fitted with a B230 variant is just the motor.

I have a 740GL with a B230 motor as my daily hack, and I've rescued a 740GLE Wagon 8+8 B234F from the wreckers, soon to be my weekend warrior. I'm fortunate that I can do all the work myself but the Cammer motor is indeed unique and requires due respect with its maintenance.

When chasing performance there is only one rule,
Fun costs money, how hard do you want to laugh?

Volvo Penta used the same motor but with a stroker crank to give it 2.5 litre capacity and slightly "wilder" cams which gave it a nominal 200bhp naturally aspirated.
You have just replaced the exhaust, its usually the best place to start with in Volvo's. A good header system, opening to a 2.5" system with a free flowing Catalytic converter and selected mufflers will improve the exhaust. The secret is not to run big pipes on the headers.
There are small improvements to be had in porting an polishing the head but it's pretty sorted for a stock setup.
As for the inlet side the panel filters are better than most of the "cone" filters, you could play with larger throttle bodies, and if you want to be really adventurous replace the ECU with a Tuner one (no not the dodgy "chip" box).

Of course any changes you make, will have to be made with reference to your local environmental and transport regulations

Hope I've given you some food for thought.

Raleigh · Post by **Raleigh** » 14 Aug 2009, 06:59

Thanks Tobugrynbak! All the info is very helpful. I purchased a new flame trap that I'm replacing tonight with a friend, I had heard that was one of the best things to do. I will, as $ allow, tackle the timing belts but Yes, I've heard every 50,000 on the button with these cars!

djzuelke · Post by **djzuelke** » 26 Aug 2009, 13:37

Raleigh, I too have a 740 16 valve GLE. Mine is a 1990 with 220k and is in fairly good condition. I live near you on the lake halfway between Holland and Grand Haven. One piece of advice: Make sure you change the belt every 45 or 50k. I didn't and it broke at 50k. After extensive repairs (new valves, etc.) I have it running again but am now experiencing driveability problems; surging at 50 -55 mph, Alas....

Raleigh · Post by **Raleigh** » 01 Sep 2009, 19:38

Nice to know there's another 16v owner on the mid-coast! I'm having some serious issues with brakes right now. I just changed by calipers and rotors, and everything went fine until bleeding. We did all the correct sequencing and everything. The car brakes and stops, but there's about five inches travel to the brake point. From everything I've seen it either REQUIRES a vacuum flash/bleed, or I have a bad master cylinder. Funny, tho, because I didn't have any real master cylinder-related problems previous... ug.