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NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

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93Regina
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by 93Regina » Wed Mar 21, 2018 11:19 pm

Click on this one, and go to ECU link: ECU information table giving which ECU and AMM for which car. Handy
http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/volvohome.htm

If not, try this one: https://tinyurl.com/ybntx3ba

Something on Matthew's site is messing with URL completion

Go here, and click on LH 2.4

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/
Last edited by 93Regina on Wed Mar 21, 2018 11:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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sergitin32
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Year and Model: 1989 240 DL
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by sergitin32 » Wed Mar 21, 2018 11:35 pm

Yes, I used that chart to look for the eBay ECU I got xxx-951 is a good substitute for the 561 white label I have there, still didn't make a difference.
The diagrams for LH 2.4 have a lot of great info. I will try checking the signals at the ECU connector, since I have the feeling there is a ground there missing, Thanks for this great resource!

Thank you 93Regina!

yosef7
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by yosef7 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 5:25 pm

I once had a tough time with my 92 240 fuel relay. Some days it would work beautiful and others not so much. Did much of what you are doing. It was frustrating. I finally was giving up and thought wires. There is a short somewhere. And you know that is not a happy task.

Found a wire from ignition (key) to the relay. The wire was open just enough to short every so often for no reason other than the exposed cooper grounded when it wanted to. Such a simple thing yet hard to find and diagnose.

Way up under the dash.

If it helps, that was my experience.
Yosef
May you always have enough.

sergitin32
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by sergitin32 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 11:31 am

Yeah I believe that's my next try. Look in the wiring. There have been a few gremlins going on while this is happening. Too bad cuz it's very tedious job. That's why I haven't put much thought into it. Like if ignoring might make it go away. Thanks for sharing your experience.

sergitin32
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by sergitin32 » Thu Oct 04, 2018 7:22 pm

OK, I am trying a new approach to this issue.
I really want to get this car going.

If any of you guys would have a no start, with the main fuel pump that does not preload as the ignition switch goes to pos1 with diagnostic code lights that do the following:

pin2: Very dim on as I put the connector in. Light comes on when press by 2 seconds, then stays very lo dim... no codes at all.

pin6: Off when connector goes in. ON when press button for 2 seconds then off again when released, no codes, not even 1-1-1.

Previous work was exchanged the cooing temperature sensor for a code from the diagnostic unit that was working alright. Radio installation and some diagnostic in the wipers switch to make the rear wiper to work.

Pump relay and ECU had been exchanged with my other 1989 240 with no difference, well except my 1989 now is having trouble starting when warm, but that's another thread.

I was kinda assuming there might be something wrong with the ECU current ingress that might have hurt my other Volvo's ECU.

RPM sensor? It is also related to the main pump preload right?

We also tested the relay for the pump and connectivity by bypassing it and it was all good. As well as the main fuse #6 I believe in this case. No 25Amps fuse for the fuel injection in the engine for this year but it goes all through #6. All fuses were changed to brass from IPD.

I will start reading the manuals and back to the drawing board.
Thanks a lot for any hints or advice,

Sergitin

sergitin32
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by sergitin32 » Sun Oct 07, 2018 11:55 pm

Found this piece of diagnosis advice from https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Engine ... ction.html

"Tips from Bob Dietz] When the car dies run a test light from the negative side of the coil to ground. If the light flashes brightly when you bump the starter then all the ignition components are ok, and the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If the light barely flashes and the fuel pump doesn't run, then suspect the ignition amplifier (between the air filter housing and the inner fender wall.) If the light flashes and the fuel pump doesn't run, suspect the fuel injection relay (the white relay behind the ashtray--remove the lighter, lighter cover plate, two screws and the ashtray to access). Pull the cover off and reinstall, turn the key to run position and operate the contacts by finger. If the fuel pump runs, then the relay is suspect--resolder or replace--your choice. If by turning the key to start and holding the fuel pump point set closed the car runs, release finger pressure on the fuel pump contacts. If the contacts stay closed for a few seconds after you release the contacts then the relay is bad and the fuel injection control unit is ok. If the motor shuts off as soon as the fuel runs out after you take finger pressure off the relay contacts then replace the relay and the fuel control unit--the protection diode on the relay has failed and wounded the computer."

Trying this next time I check the car... power stage under suspicion here. Discard the ignition VS the fuel delivery. Clever!!!

sergitin32
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Re: NO START. 1992, 245, B230F, LH 2.4, ODO @ 317k km.

Post by sergitin32 » Mon Nov 05, 2018 8:37 pm

OK WEIRD... but now I know its electrical and its wiring problems... I mean I think.

After taking out the oil separator box from this wagon and putting it into the '89 sedan.
Today I decided to go and take a look at things mainly to exchange power stages etc and see what happens.
And just because I gave it a go to the ignition, to my amaze the gas pump hummed when the switch opened.
Cranked the engine for like 5 seconds and the car started and idled as if everything is peach. DAMN...

One + thing I discovered today in my curiosity is that in the driver's side fender there was a lot of nature and paper detritus heavily packed inside the tunnel with wires a few wires. So there was probably a rodent living there for a while while one of the previous owners had it parked. I believe all these issues might be due to faulty wiring to the ECU from one or several sources but mainly from the coolant temperature sensor cuz when I tried pulling codes again the 123 and 232 came back again. The sensor is a brand new Bosch unit... I think while fighting to get the oil separator box out I might have moved the wires in the harness close by (I mean I know I did cuz it is so damn tight) and there might have done contact again and fix the problem... Or again maybe while digging the mouse nest some wire caught on the flow... need to investigate. I still wonder if the sensor might be fried, it was an eBay unit and I already contacted the seller.

Next thing I will uncover all the wires including the ones passing through the fender tunnel and try to find if there is any damage there. I expect to find some chew or frail wiring, even when Volvo solved that issue in 1986 I have read.

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