IPD sale XeMODeX - Experts in Volvo Electronics

Get email notification of topic replies. Log in or register (free). Amazon Link Buy anything with this and it helps MVS!

2011 C30 Front Brake Job - Documentation

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials devoted to the second generation C70, S40 and V50 Volvos -- awkwardly model year 2004 ½ onwards -- plus where to go for advice and discussion on Volvo's sporty C30 Coupe powered by Volvo's ubiquitous inline 5-cylinder power plant.
Post Reply
User avatar
Tsquared
Posts: 519
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 11 C30
Location: Atlanta GA
Has thanked: 1 time

2011 C30 Front Brake Job - Documentation

Post by Tsquared »

The C30 now has 62K miles on it. Other than the battery crapping out a few months back this has been a great car. My daughter is home for the holidays and I want to do some preventive maintenance while she is here. One of the other things I plan to do is service the brake system with new fluid and change out the front pads. I will be taking pictures and measurements of the procedure as I don't see anything in the forum for this series on the brakes.

The C30 shares the calipers and brakes with the Ford Fusion. At least the 2011 C30 and the 2013 Fusion have the same caliper molding/casting numbers and use the same break pad. I have a set of Hawk Ferro-Carbon pads that I will be installing. Are there any tips or tricks I need to be aware of?
'11 C30 T5

'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
User avatar
Tsquared
Posts: 519
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 11 C30
Location: Atlanta GA
Has thanked: 1 time

Re: 2011 C30 Front Brake Job - Documentation

Post by Tsquared »

I received no replies and jumped on the job this morning. The only tools I needed were 2 large flat head screwdrivers and a 7mm Allen wrench. The brakes were in fair condition and the thinnest pad had 5mm of pad material left on it. I had an appointment with the local machine shop to turn the rotors at 9 AM. I got at the machine shop and they had a closed sign on the door stating they were taking a long weekend. I went to machine shop #2 and they said they could get to it Monday or Tuesday. The rotors looked fairly good so I put them back on the car (I know the risks but the machine ships have got me PO'd right now and I am not going to drop another $180 for OEM rotors as the 3 parts houses I called do not have these in stock). The original rotors show little wear and no grooving - this just means my pads will wear a little faster. Rotors and pads next time - #1 daughter will have her Doctorate/Residency completed by that time and she can pay someone else to do it.

I jacked up the front and put it on jackstands. I removed the tires and it looks like it is a strait forward wrap over caliper setup. There are plastic caps that cover the slide pins. I used one of the screwdrivers to pop the caps off the upper and lower slide pin. I spread the caliper open with the two screwdrivers.

I loosened the slide pin with a 7mm Allen wrench. I used one of the screwdrivers to pop the retainer spring over the dog ears so that I could separate the caliper from the mounting bracket. The outside caliper will balance on the top of the rotor very easily. The outside pad stayed in place and the inside pad had clips that held it inside the single pot piston. After removing the pads I wiped down the caliper and it's bracket with break cleaner.

I took the new pads and spread the anti-vibe grease on the back of the outside pad and on the slide flange at the top and bottom of the bracket and placed it against the rotor on the caliper mounting bracket. I spread the grease on the piston inside the caliper, the clips, and at the top and bottom of the bracket. The most difficult part was getting the inside pad to snap back into the caliper piston. I used a level, even pressure to get it to snap back in.

Once both new pads were in place I took the outside caliper and placed it back in place. I put a little grease on the slide pins and and loosely installed the top pin. I then installed the bottom pin and torqued it down and went back and torqued down the top pin. I installed the dust cover caps and snapped the retainer spring back into place.

I did the same procedure to the other side. I took my handy dandy vacuum operated brake bleeder and drained the fluid that was in the reservoir. My intent was to flush the fluid but the fluid looks like it has been recently flushed. I refilled the reservoir with synthetic DOT 3&4 fluid. I reinstalled the tires and put it back on the ground.

I cranked up the car and the pedal went almost to the floor before the pads seated. I pumped a second time and they are making contact at the top of the pedal where they should. I took a test drive to the local auto parts place as the air filter was not changed at the 60K mark - it was still the original filter that I had marked when the car had about 3k miles and I signed it over to my daughter. The dealer changed the cabin pollen filter but not the intake air filter - Way to go Volvo of Memphis. I got a STP filter installed now and the brakes are quiet and stop the car.
'11 C30 T5

'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
User avatar
Tsquared
Posts: 519
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 11 C30
Location: Atlanta GA
Has thanked: 1 time

Re: 2011 C30 Front Brake Job - Documentation

Post by Tsquared »

Almost forgot: Start to finish 1 hour 35 minutes of working time on the car. I took the 2 hours break out while I was trying to find someone to turn the rotors or buy replacements.
'11 C30 T5

'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
KurtL
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2011 12:02 pm
Year and Model: V70 2001
Location: Laguna Niguel

Re: 2011 C30 Front Brake Job - Documentation

Post by KurtL »

How did you compress the piston?
User avatar
Tsquared
Posts: 519
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 11 C30
Location: Atlanta GA
Has thanked: 1 time

Re: 2011 C30 Front Brake Job - Documentation

Post by Tsquared »

I used a large flat tip screwdriver (BAS) on the back side of the outer pad and against the caliper. I was actually able to compress it a little by hand and then used the BAS to fully compress the caliper.

For a two piece over-shell design it went very smoothly. It is a much better design than the 740 or 850. If the rotors start to warp I believe I could change out the rotors with new pads in the same amount of time I spent on just changing out these pads now that I understand the system. I do not expect to have to do anything else to the brake system on this car until it has over 100K on it.
'11 C30 T5

'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post