Hello Forum,
I'm a new member to the Forum.
I have a 2012 S60T5 that I really enjoy to drive very much.
A couple of week ago I left my car outside with my windows open and rain very hard not even 2 or 3 minutes I run out got ty self pretty wet started the car and drove it onto my garage left the doors open and I did not dry it out.
Next day I had to go out for some shores the car started just fine and when I went to close the windows and the only that work wit it's own switch was the front pasenger door window,
Also a couple of days ago I try to change to one of my drive setting of my seat also the front pasenger side and did not move.
Any help would be welcome and really apreciated before I take ot to the repair shop.
Thank you
Windows and seat not working.
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Vova585
- Posts: 558
- Joined: 18 March 2023
- Year and Model: 01v70xc,2016xc70...
- Location: Rochester,NY
- Has thanked: 155 times
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Jonesroad your issue might be diferent since your car is S40 and original thread had S60.
If is possible that both issues are related, but most likely it is 2 different problems. I would start with obtaining access to alldata DIY for $25 per month. Find electrical diagram for problematic seat(way easier to trace) and check your powers and grounds to the seat. Usually it will be 2 "fat" wires in the connector under the seat. Use load testing with 2amp light(can probably use double any available brake bulb) and gently backprobe with T-pins or fine needle tester probes. If you have power abd ground to that connector- inspect connector itself for corrosion or spread pins preventing contact. Do the same check on other side of connector making sure power is passing through. If you have power and grounds there as well(light is bright) remove the seat panel and access the control panel. You will likely see Corrosion or damage there. Usually you can find those controllers at many salvage yards(might be not great since many cars are left with open doors).
With windows it is harder. More complicated diagram and depending on the year and model it can be done through relay vs BCM. You can select the door panel which has inaoperarional windows and access connector to the power window. Remove the connector and substitute with test light. Try to command the windows to open close from central and side control. No light- wiring diagram and check power and grounds...
If is possible that both issues are related, but most likely it is 2 different problems. I would start with obtaining access to alldata DIY for $25 per month. Find electrical diagram for problematic seat(way easier to trace) and check your powers and grounds to the seat. Usually it will be 2 "fat" wires in the connector under the seat. Use load testing with 2amp light(can probably use double any available brake bulb) and gently backprobe with T-pins or fine needle tester probes. If you have power abd ground to that connector- inspect connector itself for corrosion or spread pins preventing contact. Do the same check on other side of connector making sure power is passing through. If you have power and grounds there as well(light is bright) remove the seat panel and access the control panel. You will likely see Corrosion or damage there. Usually you can find those controllers at many salvage yards(might be not great since many cars are left with open doors).
With windows it is harder. More complicated diagram and depending on the year and model it can be done through relay vs BCM. You can select the door panel which has inaoperarional windows and access connector to the power window. Remove the connector and substitute with test light. Try to command the windows to open close from central and side control. No light- wiring diagram and check power and grounds...
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Jonesroad
- Posts: 45
- Joined: 29 November 2019
- Year and Model: 2015 v60
- Location: Alabama
- Has thanked: 13 times
well actually the problem i'm having it in is a 2015 v60 - i forgot to change the car make.Vova585 wrote: ↑07 Aug 2025, 12:53 Jonesroad your issue might be diferent since your car is S40 and original thread had S60.
If is possible that both issues are related, but most likely it is 2 different problems. I would start with obtaining access to alldata DIY for $25 per month. Find electrical diagram for problematic seat(way easier to trace) and check your powers and grounds to the seat. Usually it will be 2 "fat" wires in the connector under the seat. Use load testing with 2amp light(can probably use double any available brake bulb) and gently backprobe with T-pins or fine needle tester probes. If you have power abd ground to that connector- inspect connector itself for corrosion or spread pins preventing contact. Do the same check on other side of connector making sure power is passing through. If you have power and grounds there as well(light is bright) remove the seat panel and access the control panel. You will likely see Corrosion or damage there. Usually you can find those controllers at many salvage yards(might be not great since many cars are left with open doors).
With windows it is harder. More complicated diagram and depending on the year and model it can be done through relay vs BCM. You can select the door panel which has inaoperarional windows and access connector to the power window. Remove the connector and substitute with test light. Try to command the windows to open close from central and side control. No light- wiring diagram and check power and grounds...
I flip volvos i find off of marketplace so i usually have a new one every few weeks....
This one was finished- sunroof drain down the pillar was leaking... have all the carpet seats out.
it 100% had some water damage- there's a junction where the wires that the rear hatch latch joins together- they were all corroded green copper stuff.
Same for another junction point a few inches towards the center of the car- power wires.
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Vova585
- Posts: 558
- Joined: 18 March 2023
- Year and Model: 01v70xc,2016xc70...
- Location: Rochester,NY
- Has thanked: 155 times
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Sorry to hear that. That green corrosion is hard to fully eradicate. It is like gangrene and travels up the wire. You can clean the contact point and think that you restore connection, but green crusties traveled inside the insulation and at times you need to cut several inches of wire to reach clean cooper. I would still start with alldata diagram and then seat.
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