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2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials for the groundbreaking new Volvo S60 2011+, V60 2015+ XC60 2010-2018.
licoricewhip
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2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by licoricewhip » Wed Mar 28, 2018 4:21 pm

I bought a 2011 S60 T6 about a year ago from a dealership and have been dealing with a battery drain issue ever since. I left the vehicle with the dealer for a full week (spring break 2017) to investigate the issue and they couldn’t find anything wrong. The RDAR update was already taken care of prior to me buying the car.
Since the dealer visit, I have been using a battery tender to keep my battery topped off. The battery will drain within a few days if I do not drive the car. I have taken some steps to drill down on this issue, and here’s what I have found so far:

Using a DMM, and once the car has settled down, I measure current draw at the following fuse locations in the engine compartment: F35 0.07A, F36 0.01A, F37 0.40A, F38 0.10A, F39 0.03A (this draw remains for hours so I expect it is constant indefinitely).
Those measurements were taken one fuse at a time (replacing the fuse each time). When all are installed, there is a total draw of about 0.53A which, of course, is a little less than the aggregate of the individual measurements.

I downloaded the wiring diagram PDF and found that every one of these fuses is connected to the socket for pin 87 of relay 10 (R10). This is where it gets funky (at least in my mind) and I could use some help from the group. When I remove R10, there is still current at each of the fuses I mentioned earlier. I guess I don’t see the point of having a relay if there’s power on the switched circuit regardless of whether there’s a relay installed or not. I can only assume there’s a short somewhere. I bought a VIDA Vadis SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL off of eBay recently which seemed like it would be helpful in showing me how to disassemble the fuse box, but the instructions were actually very limited; there are way more clips to disconnect than what is shown. Anyway, I tried but gave up after fighting with the fuse box, I’m guessing the tension of the wires inside the box are creating enough resistance to frustrate my being able to completely take it all apart.

Would anyone be willing to confirm somethings on their car? I’d like to know if you get an approximate 12V measurement at socket 87 of R10 (this is the one most closest to the left side of the car).

Fuses and Relays - what they're doing.PNG


Just pull the relay out and measure between ground and the socket. I measure ~12V at sockets 30, 86, and 87 of R10.
If you want, you can verify if your fuses are hot with the car off as indicated in the following photo.

highlighted fuses.PNG

And last, but not least, has anyone else dealt with this issue? Any suggestions?

As for where I go next, I am considering a ghetto solution which is to create an external relay setup that closes the circuit for a fuse tap system I am planning on installing on F37 (and possibly a couple others). Yeah, I’m basically going to do what this relay should be doing. I plan on tripping the relay using power from F21 which is hot when the car is running.
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licoricewhip
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by licoricewhip » Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:06 pm

I ordered some relays, some quick disconnect connectors (male and female of difference sizes), heat shrink tubing, and a combo package of fuse taps, inline fuse holder, and assorted fuses. They arrived today (04/12/18) so I made my own little cable assembly with one relay to try on F37. I had to work through a couple of things I wasn't sure on how it would work out until I had the materials I needed, but things went together pretty good.

However, using F21 as my source voltage to trip the relay did not pan out. It does work for a matter of seconds (the car must have some residual juice stored in a cap somewhere) that allows the car to start, but if I wait more than half a minute or so, the car will not attempt to start. I guess the voltage needs to be present prior to the car starting not as the car starts. So, the project is on pause for now. I need to find a new power source that I can tap into that has power on the accessory position (perhaps the radio or something). I'm guessing I'll need to route a wire to the fuse box inside the cabin.

Anyway, I am still hoping some people would be willing to take some measurements off of R10 per my original post.

licoricewhip
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by licoricewhip » Sat Apr 14, 2018 5:36 pm

I attempted the same basic setup with an external relay except this time I used F22 (inside on passenger side) as the trigger. I press the start button to get the car into position 1 and the relay is closed, but as soon as I try to start the car, nothing happens. It's very frustrating at this point because I cannot understand why this option is not working.

Anyway, I am now back at square one I guess, which means my car will have to be plugged into a battery tender every day hereon out unless I can come up with a solution.

This is my second Volvo, and both have had electrical problems, so it's highly unlikely I'd ever buy a Volvo again.

wa5pcg
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by wa5pcg » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:10 am

Thanks for starting this thread. In the short term, I have nothing to offer to help you. But, I appreciate the info you have posted as it will help me.

I have a similar issue with my daughter's 2011 S60. I changed the battery about three years ago and still get sporadic low battery indications on the dash over the last couple of years. As of this last week, it will be almost completely drained by evening after charging it in the morning. Even after charging, the Hum device reports (via my wife's phone app) that the battery is only 11.8V.

I will start my debugging this weekend. In preparation, I did some searching and arrived at this website. Your post has given me a good path to follow. I will report anything I find, especially anything in common. Thanks again for sharing your debugging info.
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mofotech
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by mofotech » Fri Aug 17, 2018 6:03 am

Have you consider this be a RDAR system issue? Its the satellite radio keeps seeking for a signal and drains the battery. There is a software update to fix it. Also I would try to change all those square relays in the fuse box and there is a couple near the low side ac port or suction port.

I am also having some sort of issue like this and it says low battery but mine won't turn ON. It will crank. Battery will hold volts and its a been a few days and battery hasn't died but I am having a turn ON issue. And I think its one of these relays. I am going to be changing all of them and will post back.

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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by jimmy57 » Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:46 pm

On my 2010 XC60 the fuses in front of the underhood box that you highlighted are not hot all the time. The back three 36,37,38, 39, 40 (not used), 41, and 35 just behind those are fed through the fuel system relay, 2/32 (AKA R10) in the back left corner of that box (back right from driver's seat perspective). You might find them powered if the leak detection pump is being run but that would be 30 min or more after shut down. They will stay powered up for 4-8 min after engine was run until ECM goes "to sleep".

S60II14
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by S60II14 » Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:34 am

Someone solved Relay 10 issue ?. I have the same problem.
I need help, please.

honeybadger
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by honeybadger » Mon Sep 03, 2018 3:40 pm

I too have a 2011 S60 T6 AWD and have had nothing but problems with batteries being drawn down, and failing since the car was purchased new in 2011. There are only 40K miles on the vehicle but I just had the 4th new battery installed in August 2018. I hadn’t really dug into the problem until this last battery install, when I got stuck with the bill. Up until this point the new batteries had always been covered under warranty.

I quickly ran across this RDAR problem when I began investigating. The dealership was mum when I asked if they had implemented the software fix –over the many years they have been working on the vehicle– to eliminate the satellite radio from continuously searching for a signal and drawing the battery down. Just to be sure, I de-energized the radio by unplugging the power at the transceiver (?) in the trunk and installing a fiber optic loop to complete the data loop for the entertainment system. Super easy to do, and the SAT radio, when selected, no longer says “Searching for Signal" (or whatever it said onscreen). The entertainment system simply gives up and goes back to FM automatically. LOL. Never used satellite radio anyway beyond the introductory free period that came with the car purchase.

I ran several tests to gauge the electrical current status in the vehicle. I tested nowhere near the problem documented by the original poster licoricewhip of 0.53A continuously (once the vehicle settled down). I did note the vehicle took a fair amount of time (~30 mins.) to settle down and complete diagnostic activities. During the last 20 mins. of that period I consistently measured a constant 0.28A current draw. I also noted that the vehicle settled down quicker (~20 mins.) if I engaged the vehicle locks. Once the vehicle settled down I was consistently measuring 10 to 20 mA continuously. Below what I would consider an acceptable continuous current draw when the vehicle is off and locked. That being said, I did not have the patience to continue monitoring the current draw. Perhaps it ramps up as the car periodically runs diagnostics overnight. Not sure.

Based on history, I in no way think the problem is solved. My theory is that this car runs on an overall electrical deficit, which may be attributed to its many safety computer systems. This was one of the first vehicles to have active pedestrian avoidance, collision warning, lane departure warning, etc. All the common safety technology you see in many cars now. It’s like death by 1000 cuts. The battery is slowly, continuously, and prematurely “sucked dry.” The alternator struggles to make up the deficit and keep the battery topped off. That’s my theory anyway.

In the mean time I plan to install a voltage gauge to better monitor system voltage. In the past I had always been given a “low battery” warning by the vehicle. This last failure I received no warning and the car failed to turnover while I was out running errands. Left me stranded. I’ve always kept the vehicle locked, even though it’s garaged, to minimize current draw. I’m also now placing the keys in RFID pouches so the vehicle doesn’t detect the keys through the night. (Not sure if that’s a thing, but anyway.) I’m also going to apply a battery tender. Try my best to keep the battery topped off. I want to keep the vehicle. It has low mileage and is really a powerful, sporty, fun car to drive.

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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by oragex » Mon Sep 03, 2018 5:19 pm

I also recommend a device like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Batt ... p=mtr#rwid

Having the battery drain every night a little will cause it to wear prematurely.

Some XC60 had an issue with leaking windshield at the seams, could it be there some electronic components under the dash that get wet?

Also see this thread, long but towards the end some owners got the issue fixed (Jul 19th, 2011)

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archive/ ... 06831.html

As for the current drain, how do you guys measure this? Do you wait for the whole car computers (and interior lights) to completely shut off? On my S60 it takes a full 10 minutes for everything to shut off (doom lights turn off well before this). I would also remove the hood lock fuse if measuring the current under the hood (because the hood stays open). Same with the door lock if measuring inside the car with a door opened. The proper way to measure the parasitic drain is to switch all dome lights off and close all doors, undo the battery ' - ' post, turn on the multimeter at 10amp (don't forget to insert the black plug in the 10 amp hole) and connect it between the post and the cable, then wait at least 10 min for all systems to shut down. Then see what the value is (has to be smaller than 0.02A). If it's more like 0.1A or 0.2A start pulling the fuses one by one as shown on Youtube videos.

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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by jimmy57 » Mon Sep 03, 2018 7:35 pm

Disconnect batt neg and configure some way to attach the leads of the DVOM between disconnected ground lead and the battery post. I use a marine battery terminal but also have rigged a hose clamp tighten on the batt post with DVOM lead capture by clamp. Fit a jumper cable between batt neg post and the disconnected ground lead. You open all doors and trunk and use something to close every latch. The hood is the toughest one but a hex key will usually keep the latch switch closed.
Now wait at least 5 minutes with ignition off and doors locked with remote and then remove the jumper cable leaving the ground lead connected to neg post by the DVOM leads. You should see something under 1 amp at this point and it will go down another couple of increments and should settle at 20 to 25 milliamps but there will be a pulse to about 30 mA due to alarm LED blinking.

If the current remains high then you do the fuse pull to see if you can find the circuit. The CEM fuse should be last as plugging it back in will wake up some things and you'll have to wait it out for 10 or more minutes once you put that fuse back.

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