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2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials for the groundbreaking new Volvo S60 2011+, V60 2015+ XC60 2010-2018.
wa5pcg
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by wa5pcg » Mon Sep 03, 2018 8:21 pm

Sorry for the lack of an update. In my case, I spent a weekend charging the battery, both in and out of the car, and it would not take a full charge. I finally took it to Autozone and they tested it and it was bad. I was within a month of the 3 year warranty expiring so I got a new battery. Still, 3 years seems a little short. I would expect more like 5 years on a battery, even here in Texas.

I did measure the current draw when I was reinstalling the battery and it was about 350mA after about 1 minutes after reconnecting the battery once the ammeter was in the return path. It was initially over 2A but then settled to the 350mA value.

I am not sure if I have the firmware update for the satellite radio or not. I am working to get my Vida/Dice up and running and will check it one weekend when my daughter visits from school.
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licoricewhip

licoricewhip
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by licoricewhip » Sat Sep 08, 2018 8:50 am

mofotech wrote:
Fri Aug 17, 2018 6:03 am
Have you consider this be a RDAR system issue? Its the satellite radio keeps seeking for a signal and drains the battery. There is a software update to fix it. Also I would try to change all those square relays in the fuse box and there is a couple near the low side ac port or suction port.

I am also having some sort of issue like this and it says low battery but mine won't turn ON. It will crank. Battery will hold volts and its a been a few days and battery hasn't died but I am having a turn ON issue. And I think its one of these relays. I am going to be changing all of them and will post back.
@mofotech, I wasn't sure if you were replying to my posts or wa5pcg. My local dealer has assured me my RDAR system has whatever updates it needs to prevent the RDAR leak. Regarding relays, I had R10 replaced just in case when I had my radiator fan assembly replaced last summer (my car was overheating and that was the fan assembly was bad...nice and expensive, too). Anyway, depending on how low my car's battery is, I may get a lot battery alert...and at that point my car may start...or it may try to turn over but never quite make it. This is why I just use my battery tender just about every night (and day's I'm not driving). I really like my car...enough to put up with this for now...but this whole situation is ridiculous.

licoricewhip
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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by licoricewhip » Sat Sep 08, 2018 9:01 am

jimmy57 wrote:
Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:46 pm
On my 2010 XC60 the fuses in front of the underhood box that you highlighted are not hot all the time. The back three 36,37,38, 39, 40 (not used), 41, and 35 just behind those are fed through the fuel system relay, 2/32 (AKA R10) in the back left corner of that box (back right from driver's seat perspective). You might find them powered if the leak detection pump is being run but that would be 30 min or more after shut down. They will stay powered up for 4-8 min after engine was run until ECM goes "to sleep".
I wondered early on if something like the leak detection pump was the problem. However, any audible evidence I can sense seems to last maybe several minutes. I've monitored my DMM for hours (after checking every fuse...it was a long day) and my current draw remains constant at 0.53A.

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Re: 2011 S60 T6 Battery Drain - Relay 10 issue

Post by licoricewhip » Sat Sep 08, 2018 9:15 am

honeybadger wrote:
Mon Sep 03, 2018 3:40 pm

I ran several tests to gauge the electrical current status in the vehicle. I tested nowhere near the problem documented by the original poster licoricewhip of 0.53A continuously (once the vehicle settled down). I did note the vehicle took a fair amount of time (~30 mins.) to settle down and complete diagnostic activities. During the last 20 mins. of that period I consistently measured a constant 0.28A current draw. I also noted that the vehicle settled down quicker (~20 mins.) if I engaged the vehicle locks. Once the vehicle settled down I was consistently measuring 10 to 20 mA continuously. Below what I would consider an acceptable continuous current draw when the vehicle is off and locked. That being said, I did not have the patience to continue monitoring the current draw. Perhaps it ramps up as the car periodically runs diagnostics overnight. Not sure.

Based on history, I in no way think the problem is solved. My theory is that this car runs on an overall electrical deficit, which may be attributed to its many safety computer systems. This was one of the first vehicles to have active pedestrian avoidance, collision warning, lane departure warning, etc. All the common safety technology you see in many cars now. It’s like death by 1000 cuts. The battery is slowly, continuously, and prematurely “sucked dry.” The alternator struggles to make up the deficit and keep the battery topped off. That’s my theory anyway.


Honeybadger, I guess I had the same theory about all the tech contributing to the overall draw. As you saw in my first post, I was able to narrow it down to those fuses...all of which don't seem to have any relation with the bonus tech that the car has (it's all stuff relating to the engine...valves and such).

Before I started probing, I took my car to an Interstate Battery store (since the dealer replaced my battery with an Interstate Battery when I bought it due to it not starting at delivery). The owner of the store employs a guy who is "retired" but likes to keep busy with a side job. This guy apparently has decades of experience with batteries and automotive stuff. He tested my battery for about 40 minutes and said the battery was good, but showed that my car had a decent draw on it, which is what lead me to do the one-at-a-time fuse pull check. This guy said most cars tend to see between a 0.04A and 0.08A draw due to tech in the car. My car is drawing like 10 times that and it will not start if I let my car sit more than a couple of days.

Yes....1000 cuts indeed...

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