12 S60 T5 - Serpentine belt and tensioner replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials for the groundbreaking new Volvo S60 2011+, V60 2015+ XC60 2010-2018.
Post Reply
Posts: 485
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:50 pm
Year and Model: 2007 S60R
Location: new orleans

12 S60 T5 - Serpentine belt and tensioner replacement

Post by neworleans »

Hello all,

I have a 12 S60 T5 and need to replace the serpentine belts and the tensioner. Has anyone tackled this work already? I am just looking for some guidance. My parts will be delivered today. Thanks in advance.

Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:06 am
Year and Model: 2012 S60 T5 lemon
Location: Under my car all the time
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by KnucklesBusted »

I am currently in the middle of this (and some other things).

From my experience and mistakes so far, also some things I learned (you may already know):

- First my condolences on owning what has been for very many a horrible engine.

- You do know this is a interference engine? Just mentioning as if you are changing the accessory serp belt I wonder about your miles and if timing belt has been replaced?

- My issue started with a AC compressor noise (easily fixed by turning off the AC! lol) followed by a idler/tensioner sound of unknown origin.

I am replacing the T belt, W pump, T belt tensioner and idler, serp belt, tensioner and idler, ac comp, ac belt, alternator ? Basically everything that hangs off the front of the engine. On this engine as you likely know any failure of any of those components can bake your engine instantly as accessory serp belt issues can also take out the timing belt. Could be a very expensive result of a normally minor problem.

- About the acc serp belt. One issue I had was the bolt that retains the accessory belt tensioner assembly. On this engine it is a 5.5 mm internal hex. The issues with this bolt are two fold, first the hex recess is very shallow and second you cannot get a straight alignment with it as your tool will hit the interfering body sheet metal.

I would recommend you obtain a long shank 3/8" drive 5.5 mm hex bit if you do not already have before you attempt to remove it. Grind the end of the bit off so it has very sharp edges before using. You will only get one shot at this, if you slip the bolt will be very hard to remove because of the shallow hex recess, and the bolt itself is down in a pretty deep hole. All other things such as a shorter bit will result in your effort not being perfectly straight into the hex recess and cause failure. A ball hex would not work I think as the hex recess is too shallow.

I ended up having to cut the tensioner into pieces using a die grinder to get the bolt out, a unpleasant experience. After cutting the entire tensioner assembly off I was able to pound a torx bit into the hex recess and remove the bolt. My torx bit would not fit down into the hole the bolt was in before I cut the tensioner off.

If all you want to do is change the belt, that should only take 15 min or so once you get the front tire and wheel off and peel back the fender well, simple job.

But you do know that these days the belts almost never fail and will far outlast any bearings in the tensioner/idlers ? They are what fail causing the belt to be destroyed and all the ensuring mayhem.

My two cents, hope it is of assist.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Last post