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Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2 Topic is solved

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2008-2016 V70
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2007-2016 S80

richiefky
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Re: Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2

Post by richiefky »

I am unclear, what is the fix? Does this require a whole new filter housing? Or can the spring and rubber seal/valve be purchased seperately? Part #’s?
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pgill
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Re: Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2

Post by pgill »

richiefky wrote: Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:43 pm I am unclear, what is the fix? Does this require a whole new filter housing? Or can the spring and rubber seal/valve be purchased seperately? Part #’s?
Thanks for the question.

That is a great question.

I had to buy a whole new housing. (In fact I bought 2, one for each of my 3.2's)

I couldn't find a source for the spring with the rubber disc.

Note: there are two different housing one with an external oil line and one without (the oil is only routed internally)

What I don't know is if the New (oil routed internally) assembly can be used in place of the Old (external oil line)

My 2010 S80 3.2 has the New style and I just replaced the entire assembly

My 2008 LR2 3.2 has the Old style and I bought a New style housing and only swapped the spring with rubber disc.

Swapping the spring an rubber disc only is a bit difficult but it can be done.

Take care

Paul
richiefky
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Re: Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2

Post by richiefky »

Thanks Paul,
I was hoping a new spring valve could be obtained. Things like this, replacing a whole casting with machining, seem so wastefull for the want of a gram of formed rubber. I am thinking the rubber in a small syringe i have for vitamin B shots can be adapted by slicing to same thickness, if i can get the cut straight and perpendicular enough. I am not even sure mine is bad, but because of cold starts if this is bad, I will definitely check it out with the graduated container as shown, on my next oil change.
Thanks very much for calling attention to this
Rich
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pgill
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Re: Oil Anti Drain Valve for the P3 -- 3.0T and 3.2

Post by pgill »

richiefky wrote: Tue Jan 07, 2020 12:20 pm Thanks Paul,
I was hoping a new spring valve could be obtained. Things like this, replacing a whole casting with machining, seem so wastefull for the want of a gram of formed rubber. I am thinking the rubber in a small syringe i have for vitamin B shots can be adapted by slicing to same thickness, if i can get the cut perpendicular enough, and a teet is the method of fastening to spring, if not a small hole drilled to accept the teet on plunger should work. I am not even sure mine is bad, but because of cold starts if this is bad, I will definitely check it out with the graduated container as shown, on my next oil change.
Thanks very much for calling attention to this
Rich
I completely agree with everything you wrote.

If you come up with a solution please share it here.


However I should point out the one advantage of replacing the entire housing, included in the assembly is a new heat exchanger.

The Heat Exchanger as far as I can tell is stacked plates of aluminum that are brazed together.

The engine oil and coolant are both going thru the stacked plates but on alternating levels.

If the Thin Aluminum that separates the Oil and coolant corrodes then the oil and coolant will mix.

I saw a picture on the Land Rover forum where the coolant over flowed because it was contaminated by oil.

If I find the link I'll post it here

Thanks

Paul
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