I need an engine for my 98 xc Topic is solved

Post by **CIK7** » 13 Nov 2020, 22:22

I want to get my 98 xc running again. I don't have money to get a new engine. I really don't want to get rid of the car. Can someone please donate an engine? 2.3t/2.4t.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Nov 2020, 04:35

How can we get my long block from ALB TO Ok on the cheap?

It’s about awfully heavy item to “ milgram ship” , I.e. pass from friend to friend.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 19 Nov 2020, 06:10

Heavy items can be moved by truck freight (motor freight). Just strap to a shipping pallet and take to shipping dock. You would need to check rates, but in the past I have shipped a couple hundred pounds across several states for $100-150. Motor freight can often be delivered to your door if a truck can get there. Or, have delivered to a cooperating business that will hold for your pickup.
volvolugnut

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 19 Nov 2020, 11:13

abscate wrote: ↑19 Nov 2020, 04:35 How can we get my long block from ALB TO Ok on the cheap?

Ideally, catch a ride with somebody making a trip from the North east to or through Oklahoma in a truck. Should be able to crate it and get it in the back of a XC90. Put the crate on plywood with a little sand it it should slide in and out. Front load block attached to the plywood. A 2X4 will do.

volvolugnut wrote: ↑19 Nov 2020, 06:10 Just strap to a shipping pallet and take to shipping dock.

It is better to crate the engine for shipping. Lower shipping rate for crates vs pallets. They can stack on a crated engine but not a palletize engine. The palletize engine uses all the shipping capacity vertically. Consume more of the shipping capacity and you pay more.

The engine oil would need to flushed out. Even a small amount of spilled oil is a hazmat spill under DOT regulations and it is expensive. The Hazmat classification raises the shipping rates also. The carrier may charge Hazmat rates even if the engine is flushed. It might be cheaper to take up a collection so he can get a engine from LKQ Pick Your Part in Tulsa or Oklahoma City. $250.00, $75.00 core and taxes.

Post by **CIK7** » 21 Nov 2020, 06:16

I have been considering the pros and cons of restoring my 98 XC and have found that I would rather part it out to make a load of money and transform it into a trailer. I'll be cutting off the engine bay, disconnecting most wiring, rewiring the essential lights and windows to a new fuse box. For kicks and giggles I'll be leaving in the dashboard and steering wheel.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 30 Nov 2020, 18:09

CIK7 wrote: ↑21 Nov 2020, 06:16 I have been considering the pros and cons of restoring my 98 XC and have found that I would rather part it out to make a load of money and transform it into a trailer. I'll be cutting off the engine bay, disconnecting most wiring, rewiring the essential lights and windows to a new fuse box. For kicks and giggles I'll be leaving in the dashboard and steering wheel.

An enclosed, lockable, classy trailer! I see why you want to keep the sound system now. It can double as a camper. How will you make the towing hitch attachment?

volvolugnut

Post by **CIK7** » 02 Dec 2020, 09:10

volvolugnut wrote: ↑30 Nov 2020, 18:09
An enclosed, lockable, classy trailer! I see why you want to keep the sound system now. It can double as a camper. How will you make the towing hitch attachment?

volvolugnut

I'm sorry I haven't been on in quite some time. I was told to keep the bottom of the engine bay frame but I don't think there's anything else besides the subframe. I think I'm going to weld heavy duty brackets and steel bars with 2 support beams onto the car and then use a class two tongue. I want to figure out how I might get functional electric brakes on it. I don't want it stolen when built so I also need ideas on how to lock one of the wheels. I've heard those hitch ball locks are not secure.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 02 Dec 2020, 09:35

Some Volvo trailer thoughts:
You may have trouble getting the empty hitch weight light enough. I think the recommendation is about 10 % of trailer weight. Using a longer tongue will help reduce hitch weight.
I would try to weld the tongue to the subframe attachment points and maybe brace to the fender top attachment.
Using the parking brake with an electric actuator for trailer brakes might work. Redneck trailer is a local source for trailer parts and may be able to help.
I have also heard trailer stolen even with ball hitch locks. Maybe a wheel clamp like The Boot would be good.
volvolugnut

Post by **CIK7** » 02 Dec 2020, 17:06

volvolugnut wrote: ↑02 Dec 2020, 09:35 Some Volvo trailer thoughts:
You may have trouble getting the empty hitch weight light enough. I think the recommendation is about 10 % of trailer weight. Using a longer tongue will help reduce hitch weight.
I would try to weld the tongue to the subframe attachment points and maybe brace to the fender top attachment.
Using the parking brake with an electric actuator for trailer brakes might work. Redneck trailer is a local source for trailer parts and may be able to help.
I have also heard trailer stolen even with ball hitch locks. Maybe a wheel clamp like The Boot would be good.
volvolugnut

Thank you I'll take a look into the tongue thing. I'll look around for that brake actuator. And I think those boots are fairly easy to pick open. I watched a video about that. It's crazy how cheap they make them. They go hand in hand with the hitch ball lock. Unsecure.