Replacing the Rear Main Seal 2000 S40

Post by **Choguy03** » 12 Oct 2011, 20:49

After breaking a timing belt and having to rebuild the head, I decided that I should replace the rear main seal. I already have the head and intake/exhaust manifolds removed. I will post pictures after I finish up the job. I started today by removing the CV axles. The best way to do this is to raise the car and pull both front wheels. Remove the drain plug on the tranny pan (ha, that's funny) and let it drain while you remove both axle nuts (32 mm I believe). Use a strong screw driver to jam in the rotor to hold the axle from turning while removing the nut. Now on to the control arm. Two vertical bolts (17 mm) towards the rear and one horizontal bolt (17 mm bolt, 18 mm nut). You will have to pull the arm down and then the vertical bushing out, away from the car. You can hold the arms up using bungee cords. Once that is done, there is a bracket holding a bearing for the passenger side CV axle. Remove the two bolts (12 mm) and the half circle bracket. Now turn the wheel toward the side you want to remove.This will help you be all to pull the axle out. Now, pulling the rotor toward you, pull the axle arm from the knuckle. It will take some muscle, but it will come. Be sure to keep the axle from extending to prevent damage to the joints. Place a bucket under where the two axles go into the trans and pull them straight out. The driver side axle has a ring that helps hold it into the trans so I used a pry bar to release it. More to come, so stay tuned. Again, I will take pictures this weekend and help put this whole thing together.

Also, I have a question. Does anyone have the torque specs for the trans to motor bolts, flywheel bolts and torque converter to flex plate bolts? Thanks dudes.

Post by **billofdurham** » 13 Oct 2011, 13:09

Transmission to motor bolts - 50nm tightened alternately.
Flywheel bolts - 45nm + 65 degrees.
Torque converter - 35nm using new bolts.

Please keep this updated and we'll put it in the repair database.

Bill.

Post by **Choguy03** » 13 Oct 2011, 15:40

Thanks Bill! Do you know why they recommend you change the torque converter bolt? I read that somewhere else but couldn't find out the reason.

Post by **billofdurham** » 14 Oct 2011, 12:24

Do you know why they recommend you change the torque converter bolt?

I have no idea but it seems to be a general instruction for Volvo cars. I have checked AT manuals for various makes and only Volvo has specified new bolts.

Bill.

Post by **Choguy03** » 17 Oct 2011, 14:25

After breaking a timing belt and having to rebuild the head, I decided that I should replace the rear main seal. Removing the intake manifold is not necessary, but since it was removed, it seemed to be much easier to get at the starter and bolts on the intake side of the engine.

I started today by removing the CV axles. The best way to do this is to raise the car and pull both front wheels. Remove the drain plug on the tranny pan (ha, that's funny).

: Trans plug.

Let it drain while you remove both axle nuts (32 mm I believe). Use a strong screw driver to jam in the rotor to hold the axle from turning while removing the nut. Now on to the control arm. Two vertical bolts (17 mm) towards the rear and one horizontal bolt (17 mm bolt, 18 mm nut).

: Rear control arm bolts.

: Front control arm bolt.

You will have to pull the arm down and then the vertical bushing out, away from the car. You can hold the arms up using bungee cords. Once that is done, there is a bracket holding a bearing for the passenger side CV axle.

: CV bracket (passenger side).

Remove the two bolts (12 mm) and the half circle bracket. Now turn the wheel toward the side you want to remove.This will help you be all to pull the axle out. Now, pulling the rotor toward you, pull the axle arm from the knuckle. It will take some muscle, but it will come.

: Push rotor toward rear of car and pull CV axle out.

Be sure to keep the axle from extending to prevent damage to the joints. Place a bucket under where the two axles go into the trans and pull them straight out. The driver side axle has a ring that helps hold it into the trans so I used a pry bar to release it.

: Bucket under opening with control arm hanging with bungee.

More to come, so stay tuned. Again, I will take pictures this weekend and help put this whole thing together.

Post by **billofdurham** » 17 Oct 2011, 16:13

Keep the pictures coming then this will be in the Repair Database.

Bill.

Post by **Choguy03** » 18 Oct 2011, 12:19

Next, we will remove the trans fluid lines going to the radiator. Remove the clips and have a bucket ready to catch the trans fluid.

: Trans to radiator lines.

: Another view of the trans lines to the radiator.

Now on to the starter. If you removed the intake manifold this is really easy, if not, you can still get at it from under the car. There are two bolts and one pin holding the starter on. First remove the nut holding the power to the starter and the small black connector. Remove the starter.

: Starter view.

Now we can remove the air box and battery assembly. There are two bolts holding the air box in and four for the battery holder. Remove the battery then the four bolts. The ground wire is routed through a clip on the underside of the holder, be sure to remove the wire. Also be sure to remove the ground wire from the top of the trans too.

: Air box and battery holder locations.

Next, we will remove the 5 plugs from the clips on the back top of the trans. You can remove the bracket too to help with removal, but it will stay with the trans while it is dropped. It holds the sensors for the trans, none of which need to be removed to drop trans.

: 5 Clips.

Post by **Choguy03** » 18 Oct 2011, 15:36

Now we will remove the shift cable from the trans. Use a small screwdriver and pull up the retaining clip and push it off. Pull the Cable end off of the rubber grommet. The grommet will stay on arm. (see picture) Also remove the shift cable bracket. Be sure to mark where the bracket is. You want to put it back in the same spot. (see picture)

: Shift Cable Location and bracket.

: Shift cable removed from grommet.

: You can see where the nuts were on the bracket, just be sure to replace in same position.

You now want to place a jack under the trans. and jack stands under the oil pan to hold the block up.

: Jack stands holding the block up.

We are now going to remove the right engine mount. You can leave the bracket on the trans, but will need to remove the three nuts on the studs and the center bolt holding the mount in the car.

: Nuts and bolt are circled.

: After.

Next, we will remove the torque converter bolts. There is a cover on the back side that can be removed and used to access the bolts or you can use the starter hole (see pic above), either way works just fine. Use a big screwdriver to spin the flywheel to line up for the next bolt, there are 6 total and need to be replaced per Volvo. Engine to trans bolts are also shown.

: Cover and trans to engine bolts.

We are now going to remove the bolts holding the trans to the engine. There are 10 bolts. Be sure to keep them in order as some are long and some are short. Once we remove the bolts, the only thing holding the trans in place are the two engine mounts attached to the sub frame, so use caution as you remove bolts. (see pictures for locations) If you did not remove the cover for the torque converter on the underside, you will need to do that now also.

: Front of engine. There is another bolt right above the sub frame. You can see it easily from under the car. Sorry I don't have a better picture.

: Cover and trans to engine bolts.

: Drivers side of engine.

Post by **Choguy03** » 19 Oct 2011, 08:15

As you work your way around, you will probably see the trans pull away from the engine. It will want to fall toward the drivers side since all that is holding it up is the two mounts attached to the sub frame. Once all bolts are removed, we will work on getting the sub frame off the car. Again, be careful. As you loosen these bolts do not be directly under the trans. We will work on the front engine mount first since it will need to be taken out before the trans is dropped. Remove the single bolt holding the the metal line running trough the bracket off. Remove the two bolts from the bracket to the trans and then the bolt holding the bracket on.

: Front engine mount removed.

Next, remove the four bolts holding the rear mount to the trans.

: Rear engine mounts are circled. Click on picture for a better view.

At this point, the trans is now free from the engine, so again be careful. A partner helping and keeping an eye on the trans really helps.

We have 4 more bolts and the trans will come right out. Locate the two front and two rear bolts holding the sub frame beam on the car. After removing these, remove the sub frame and remove the trans. Be careful when removing. You may want to pull out the dip stick. Also, be sure the wiring harness on the trans does not get caught either.

: Front.

: Rear.

Post by **Choguy03** » 19 Oct 2011, 15:52

Trans is out, with torque converter removed and draining.

: Trans out of car.

Here is the view of the 12-point flywheel bolts. Use an impact if you have one, since the flywheel will turn. If you don't, you will need to find a way to hold the flywheel in place.

: Flywheel bolts.

After removing the bolts, you may need to tap the back of the flywheel to help get it off of the crank. Below you can see the seal and how bad it was leaking. Use a screw and hammer to tap the screw through the front of the seal. Be sure it is in the middle of the seal. Screw it in and use a scrap of wood and pliers to pull the seal out. Use the wood to pry against so you aren't prying against the block. Be sure to clean the area really well.

: Old seal still in.

: Old seal removed.

Lube up the new seal with some fresh engine oil. Don't use grease since that will collect crap. Evenly push the seal in and flush with the block. I used a pvc pip to help tap with a hammer to get the seal completely in.

: Nice and new and cleaned up.

There you go. The seal is replaced. Install the trans in reverse order. If you pulled off the torque converter, be sure the notches on the torque converter line up with the tabs on the trans. You will be able to tell if it is lined up correctly because it will almost touch the trans. It will move away once you attach it to the fly wheel, but that is just to make sure it is lined up correctly. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the trans backed lined up. I used a 4x4 across the engine compartment and used a ratcheting strap to help lift as well as using the jack. When lining up the torque converter you should be able to get your hand in through the starter hole and turn it into place. Another good trick to get the torque converter in the correct spot is to get a longer bolt with the same thread and screw it into the torque converter through the flywheel and pull the torque converter toward the flywheel. Please feel free to ask questions and I will do my best to respond asap.