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Alternator Troubleshooting Topic is solved

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br0dy519
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Alternator Troubleshooting

Post by br0dy519 »

Hi all,

Just wondering what the agreed method to alternator troubleshooting is. While driving yesterday the battery light went on, with a "EL.POWERSYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED" message on the info center display. When I got to my destination I left the car running and slapped the multimeter on the battery and got a read of 11.6V ! (Very low brownout) Car off- 12.6V (actually an OK reading for an idle battery). My first thought is the alternator itself, and likely going for a rebuild to make sure I have a new pulley/fresh bearings from a reputable local rebuilder. I plan on taking the alternator off and using this thread viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51058 to troubleshoot and see if the regulator is the issue as well... but I think while I'm in there I really should just replace the whole alternator anyway in order to ensure I have new mechanical parts. Battery is only about a year old Kirkland H7 so I really don't think it's that although I will get it load tested while my alternator is on the bench getting tested as well.

Am I on the right path or not? This is part of an ongoing rough patch I've been having with the 04 xc70 in the past month (First exhaust leak, discovered that I needed ball joints, after replacing ball joints ABS light comes on and I had to replace my rear wheel bearing this weekend... now alternator? :( Hopefully this is the end of my bad luck streak for the year!)
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I just had that problem in my '03. Test the alternator voltage at the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator, you can reach it with a multimeter probe. Should be 14 - 14.5.
I would replace with an OEM unit either new or from an autowrecker depending on your budget. Don't buy an aftermarket part and expect it to work for long. It's pretty east to change, look up a video on YouTube.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

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Post by xHeart »

Failing or failed pulley will result in malfunctioning regulator.
Replace both, but use new Bosch dual passive heat exchanger for replacement.
Image

This may help viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96765
Last edited by xHeart on Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Blacklab467 wrote: Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:05 pm I just had that problem in my '03. Test the alternator voltage at the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator, you can reach it with a multimeter probe. Should be 14 - 14.5.
I would replace with an OEM unit either new or from an autowrecker depending on your budget. Don't buy an aftermarket part and expect it to work for long. It's pretty east to change, look up a video on YouTube.
ok I'll check between b+ and ground with the car running. shouldn't be much different than the battery reading no?

and no I'm not getting any chinese alternator. I'm getting a rebuilt Bosch one from a good rebuilder here in town (only uses japanese bearings)
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Post by oragex »

Normally, when you get the battery light it's actually the regulator that failed.
A faulty alternator regulator (or faulty clutch pulley) will damage the battery.
A worn battery (may still crank fine) will damage an alternator regulator
It's all interconnected
After you put a new regulator, drive and see if the battery is in good health
Be sure to put the correct regulator number - it has changed in 2004 so read the number you have in your car
For the ABS light, if you ever pull on the wire to remove an ABS sensor, it goes kaput, always push with a flat screw driver from under the sensor



br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

oragex wrote: Tue Apr 20, 2021 5:12 pm Normally, when you get the battery light it's actually the regulator that failed.
A faulty alternator regulator (or faulty clutch pulley) will damage the battery.
A worn battery (may still crank fine) will damage an alternator regulator
It's all interconnected
After you put a new regulator, drive and see if the battery is in good health
Be sure to put the correct regulator number - it has changed in 2004 so read the number you have in your car
For the ABS light, if you ever pull on the wire to remove an ABS sensor, it goes kaput, always push with a flat screw driver from under the sensor


It all is definitely connected, that's why I want to replace the entire alternator instead of throwing a $100 regulator at it then having to rebuild the alt anyway after the fact. As for the battery I will have it load tested- again it's a year old and I have seen defective batteries or it may be damaged by the reg, the load test will verify that and I'll get a new one if need be. I find that more accurate than using a multimeter anyways. The regulator number this document helped me quite a bit with selection https://regitar.com/image/file_download ... Choose.pdf

ABS light was solved already replaced the wheel bearing but yes it's good practice to always use the harness and never pull on loose wires as sometimes those little clips break or come loose inside of plugs. 3rd ABS light in past 2 years by the way.... waiting on when I'm gonna have to put the last wheel bearing in after replacing both tone rings up front lol
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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Just an update. The alternator was DEAD. On the bench the pulley sounded like a pig getting slaughtered. Output voltage was 11V.

Battery slapped on charger and has great capacity. So after three hours I slapped the alternator in and all is well. I hate this job on the turbo :)
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Post by oragex »

Good fix. The alt comes out rather fine by removing the radiator fan assembly and sliding the alt by the radiator and pulling it out near the air filter box

br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Well I come crawling back here asking more opinions and advice. I'm getting a great ~14.4 while car is driving; however, the "EL. POWERSYSTEM REQUIRED" message with the battery light appears for about a single half second flash immediately after turning over. Battery is just shy of 12.3 volts when the engine isn't running. I think I'm going to replace the battery this week and will report back.
Last edited by br0dy519 on Mon May 10, 2021 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by abscate »

It’s dead , Jim

Mark me as another one of the suckers allured in by the cheap price of the aftermarket voltage regulator which lasted three months.

FCP Bosch, baby, or don’t bother
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