Well they do make a popping noise when they're worn. Not sure how I incorrectly installed it. I used the install kit, but I do remember it being off when compared to drivers side. So you're saying you also had a glued in ball joint and just took it to a mechanic? What did he end up doing?
ball joint woes Topic is solved
- chris11211
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Re: ball joint woes
- erikv11
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Did you try hammering on the nut? Back the nut off a few turns so the shaft of the ball joint stud is just recessed and therefore protected from the hammer, then whack on the nut.chris11211 wrote: ↑24 Sep 2021, 18:48 ... I tried hammering it out from the bottom but there is no give and i warped the hex slot. ...
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
- Blacklab467
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Glued in or not it shouldn't be difficult to remove, give it a few firm taps with a hammer with the nut on the threads. Removing the balljoint from the knuckle should also be easy with a chisel and just work each side little by little until it comes out, you do not need any special tools for install either, you can generally get them in by tapping lightly and tightening the bolts. Make sure to clean out the bore with emery cloth before you install the new one.
Only buy Volvo brand parts for these front ends unless you enjoy doing the same job over. You are lucky to have gotten two years on aftermarket parts.
Only buy Volvo brand parts for these front ends unless you enjoy doing the same job over. You are lucky to have gotten two years on aftermarket parts.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- chris11211
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Ok, so I threw in the towel today and I can confirm without a doubt that I would have never been able to have gotten that ball joint out of the socket without air power tools and a lift. My mechanic needed to bust it off with an air drill and fork attachment and an extra nudge with a hammer in order to get it out. He charged me $180 not $280 from last post
I don't know how much of a blame I should put to IPD because I have been driving with their ball joints in nyc streets for little over 2 year, and these streets will let you know fast which suspension parts are a ripoff. But I am disappointed with the claim that the silicone boots are X amount stronger and more durable when compared to rubber when in fact mine tore open in under 2 years, and in the other boot the lower ring lost it's strength possibly spilled all of it's gunk to the control arm forming a glue like seal to the control arm. And this was the only thing they got going for the ball joint; they are physically the same except for the boot, and if both of mine broke then why shouldn't I stick with the factory OE Lemforder? On top of that the joint is worn completely, causing free movement up and down that I can do with my bare hands. Could've broken at any moment.
Only other Ipd product in the car is the control arms. So far the rubber is still in one piece and I guess they are on to something with the virgin material.
I don't know how much of a blame I should put to IPD because I have been driving with their ball joints in nyc streets for little over 2 year, and these streets will let you know fast which suspension parts are a ripoff. But I am disappointed with the claim that the silicone boots are X amount stronger and more durable when compared to rubber when in fact mine tore open in under 2 years, and in the other boot the lower ring lost it's strength possibly spilled all of it's gunk to the control arm forming a glue like seal to the control arm. And this was the only thing they got going for the ball joint; they are physically the same except for the boot, and if both of mine broke then why shouldn't I stick with the factory OE Lemforder? On top of that the joint is worn completely, causing free movement up and down that I can do with my bare hands. Could've broken at any moment.
Only other Ipd product in the car is the control arms. So far the rubber is still in one piece and I guess they are on to something with the virgin material.
Last edited by chris11211 on 30 Sep 2021, 20:23, edited 1 time in total.
- chris11211
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This boot was on the passenger side and it was as easy to take off as it should. The drivers side is what I previously posted and had to give to the mechanic to bust out; it's lower boot ring was also compromised.
Last edited by chris11211 on 30 Sep 2021, 20:24, edited 1 time in total.
- famfeld
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I have found that Lemforder is possibly better than Meyle for ball joints. I have been going through even Lemforder control arms and sending them back a lot under warranty.
Thanks for the information
Famfeld
Thanks for the information
Famfeld
- Blacklab467
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Stop wasting your time, go to FCP or Volvo online and buy Volvo parts, read this again.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- chris11211
- Posts: 197
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Lemforder makes Volvo ball joints, control arm, sway bar, and tie rods. Prove me wrong.Blacklab467 wrote: ↑30 Sep 2021, 21:26 Stop wasting your time, go to FCP or Volvo online and buy Volvo parts, read this again.
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