2002 Volvo V70 XC

bcarver78 · Post by **bcarver78** » 16 Aug 2025, 18:12

I have a 2002 Volvo V70 XC with the 2.5L turbo engine setup. I love this car. It rides great, handles great, has plenty of power, and the AWD is an absolute must in the winter considering where I live (without AWD or 4x4... if it snows... you are just STUCK). Anyway, my car has a little over 140,000 miles on it. It had a brand new timing set put in it at 125,000 miles. I've done other work to it like replacing a wheel hub assembly, MAF sensor, and the front passenger CV axle. Anyway, It's doing this weird thing on startup. It'll start, idle fine for about 10 seconds, then starts bogging down, spits and sputters, and dies. If i keep the RPMs to about 1200 until it is good and warm... she runs and drives fine with plenty of power. If, for example, I stop to put fuel in (which requires me shutting the car off for the 3-5 minutes it takes me to go inside, pay for my fuel, pump it, and get back in my car) it starts doing the exact same thing even though the engine is still nice and warmed up. It has a brand new battery and charges really well. I'm at a loss here. Any advice on where to look for the problem or what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 16 Aug 2025, 18:25

I suggest checking the fuel pressure. The pump may be getting weak.
volvolugnut

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 16 Aug 2025, 22:40

Weird issue. Hard to condemn anything right away given "starts well", " runs and drive well with plenty of power"...
Honorable Volvolugnut might be right with his idea of water pump being behind this issue. 2 possible ways how it might be acting up. 1- pump is worn and requires higher amperage/voltage to operate. While you are revving the engine up, you are providing it with sufficient current to do its job and life is good, however when you are idling upon start, residual fuel pressure is being consumed quickly and new fuel is not delivered since the pump is not turning.
2. Possibility: is problems with the power supply to the pump. Maybe ground is corroded a little or power/ground wire has internal break of several filaments resulting in wire not being able to deliver the same amperage to the pump-same idea, pump is not working as it should, but due to electrical supply fault.
Go to Harbot Freight and buy simple fuel pressure tester. Or rent one from Advance or Auto Zone. If you never done this test-look online videos for safety(eye protection, drop cloth, avoid spillage of fuel, well ventilated, fire extinguisher near by....). It is honestly simple test, but better be safe. Car is not running- attach the gauge to the port. Cycle the key to 2nd position 2-3 times to prime the lines. Start the car and rev it a little to get all the air out of the lines and make work stable. Check the pressure on idling. Should be 3-3.5 bar. Ask assistant to rev the engine for you(if the test hose is short and you are unable to see while inside of the driver's seat. Dropps below 2.5bar- most likely your issue is pump, but wait. Car is running good, turn it off. Wait your prior 3-4 min and see what the fuel pressure will show(engine is not running) it should be around 0.8-1bar residual pressure. Not 0 bar pressure. OK, residual pressure is there, you waited 5-10min(to be sure it will act up as prior). Start the car and look at the gauge(either run quickly to the gauge or ask someone to start for you while you are watching the gauge). If the pressure dropps to 0 and car stops- fuel delivery problem is confirmed. From here can get scientifical with checking if the power and grounds are good at the pump with amp meter, check the draw of the pump, inspect connector for corrosion, inspect ground point of the pump, or juat buy a new Bosch pump with new lock ring o-ring gasket and lock ring tool-replace the pump when fuel in the tank is at or below 50%. Access point is below rear seat cushions and is easy job(might result on not accurate fuel level gauge attached little(15% or so in my case), but who cares(not me). Dont forget to replace your fuel pump. It is likely a corroded mess given Ohio residence(unless you are an awesome volvo owner and replace it every 3 years or so).
Keep us posted on your progress.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 17 Aug 2025, 14:00

bcarver78 wrote: ↑16 Aug 2025, 18:12 I have a 2002 Volvo V70 XC with the 2.5L turbo engine setup. I love this car. It rides great, handles great, has plenty of power, and the AWD is an absolute must in the winter considering where I live (without AWD or 4x4... if it snows... you are just STUCK). Anyway, my car has a little over 140,000 miles on it. It had a brand new timing set put in it at 125,000 miles. I've done other work to it like replacing a wheel hub assembly, MAF sensor, and the front passenger CV axle. Anyway, It's doing this weird thing on startup. It'll start, idle fine for about 10 seconds, then starts bogging down, spits and sputters, and dies. If i keep the RPMs to about 1200 until it is good and warm... she runs and drives fine with plenty of power. If, for example, I stop to put fuel in (which requires me shutting the car off for the 3-5 minutes it takes me to go inside, pay for my fuel, pump it, and get back in my car) it starts doing the exact same thing even though the engine is still nice and warmed up. It has a brand new battery and charges really well. I'm at a loss here. Any advice on where to look for the problem or what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.

.
My 2002 V70 XC purchased with 83K miles had this problem and others with codes. Idled rough though engine was a very steady 900 RPM. Will experience intermittent conks for a split second, like someone holding their breath and about to pass out and breathing again. The following fixed the problem with the MAP installed first and then diagnosed and found 1 bad injector. Parts installed Mar 2024 and coming up to 88K miles.
.
Bosch 0261230029 Original Equipment Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BL764CY?ps ... ct_details
.

Post by **cn90** » 17 Aug 2025, 14:10

Search forum for PEM issue.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 17 Aug 2025, 14:36

Vova585 wrote: ↑16 Aug 2025, 22:40 Weird issue. Hard to condemn anything right away given "starts well", " runs and drive well with plenty of power"...
Honorable Volvolugnut might be right with his idea of water pump being behind this issue. 2 possible ways how it might be acting up. 1- pump is worn and requires higher amperage/voltage to operate. While you are revving the engine up, you are providing it with sufficient current to do its job and life is good, however when you are idling upon start, residual fuel pressure is being consumed quickly and new fuel is not delivered since the pump is not turning.
2. Possibility: is problems with the power supply to the pump. Maybe ground is corroded a little or power/ground wire has internal break of several filaments resulting in wire not being able to deliver the same amperage to the pump-same idea, pump is not working as it should, but due to electrical supply fault.
Go to Harbot Freight and buy simple fuel pressure tester. Or rent one from Advance or Auto Zone. If you never done this test-look online videos for safety(eye protection, drop cloth, avoid spillage of fuel, well ventilated, fire extinguisher near by....). It is honestly simple test, but better be safe. Car is not running- attach the gauge to the port. Cycle the key to 2nd position 2-3 times to prime the lines. Start the car and rev it a little to get all the air out of the lines and make work stable. Check the pressure on idling. Should be 3-3.5 bar. Ask assistant to rev the engine for you(if the test hose is short and you are unable to see while inside of the driver's seat. Dropps below 2.5bar- most likely your issue is pump, but wait. Car is running good, turn it off. Wait your prior 3-4 min and see what the fuel pressure will show(engine is not running) it should be around 0.8-1bar residual pressure. Not 0 bar pressure. OK, residual pressure is there, you waited 5-10min(to be sure it will act up as prior). Start the car and look at the gauge(either run quickly to the gauge or ask someone to start for you while you are watching the gauge). If the pressure dropps to 0 and car stops- fuel delivery problem is confirmed. From here can get scientifical with checking if the power and grounds are good at the pump with amp meter, check the draw of the pump, inspect connector for corrosion, inspect ground point of the pump, or juat buy a new Bosch pump with new lock ring o-ring gasket and lock ring tool-replace the pump when fuel in the tank is at or below 50%. Access point is below rear seat cushions and is easy job(might result on not accurate fuel level gauge attached little(15% or so in my case), but who cares(not me). Dont forget to replace your fuel pump. It is likely a corroded mess given Ohio residence(unless you are an awesome volvo owner and replace it every 3 years or so).
Keep us posted on your progress.

I suspect the 2nd line should say fuel pump, not water pump. And the 3rd from last line should say fuel filter, not fuel pump.
volvolugnut

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 17 Aug 2025, 18:05

CN90 before suggesting something please say " I think it can be...". If my knowledge is correct(which i think it is in this case) PEM started to be used in MY2004. If I am not correct, please correct me.
Extra level of thank you for volvolugnut for correcting my post. I should try to be more careful and proofread what I write(but I am usually lazy and tired).